Painting engine barrels and overheating

Getting your blazingly fast Suzuki powerplant to perform even better!

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Suzukidave
Moto GP
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Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT750 x2 97 -1200 Bandit 86 GSXR1100
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Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating

Post by Suzukidave »

Looking at your broken oil injection line , do you feel it would be possible to drill out the broken piece of line in the elbow to a depth of maybe 3or 4 mm , clean up the end of the broken line and then re epoxy the old line back in to the elbow ? Worth a try anyways .
the older i get the faster i was
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Nicholas
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Suzuki 2-Strokes: Suzuki GT500, SR500, BMW R80, BMW R100S

Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating

Post by Nicholas »

Suzukidave wrote:Looking at your broken oil injection line , do you feel it would be possible to drill out the broken piece of line in the elbow to a depth of maybe 3or 4 mm , clean up the end of the broken line and then re epoxy the old line back in to the elbow ? Worth a try anyways .
Yes that is exactly what I intended to do. I have measured up my lines and fittings. Will use two sized tubes, one to create a sleeve for the connectors onto the banjo fittings. I just need to fabricate a sleeve with an ID of approx. 4mm or 5mm, the OD of the 5/64 line (1.9mm or 2mm ID) is appox 4mm so I can slide that in with a bit of glue...then as you say drill through the existing tees and glue in the new lines.

If that doesn’t work then these guys sell some nice barb style tees and tubes.
http://www.pneumadyne.com/pneumatic-tub ... ories.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I measured my banjo fittings:
ID : approx. 1.9mm to 2mm (5/64)
OD: approx. 4mm or 5mm - I need a micrometer! :-D
Length: approx. 7mm
Sleeve size: 15mm

I am keen to know a bit about the Polaris valves as I am not sure if I need to replace mine.

I tested a few of them using a lubricant spray can. Into the inlet the valve opened at a level of pressure, into the bolt, nothing passed... So if I do not need to replace them...I wont! :-) I think we need a solution here...as this will become a big problem when we find our valves failing...I use my bike, it doesn’t sit in the living room!
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Nicholas
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Suzuki 2-Strokes: Suzuki GT500, SR500, BMW R80, BMW R100S

Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating

Post by Nicholas »

tz375 wrote:They are probably 159 series with large hex jets

If they are large round jets, they use 188 series. They are the same AFAIK and are tapped foe different main jet threads.

The series # is marked above the P-4 size stamp.
I cannot seem to find 188 needle jets! :-( So I can either forget about replacing this part and just get new needles...but one of them was bent...so its probably worn the inside of the jet....

Anyone know what other carbs or needle jet configurations work? I am scared I will throw my bike off if I do that...but maybe a modern carb would be easier to maintain? :wth:
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ConnerVT
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Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating

Post by ConnerVT »

Yes, that was my mistake from before. I should of said that the 188 series (Round head jet) P-4 and P-4 Needle jets are made of Unobtanium. :oops:
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Nicholas
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Suzuki 2-Strokes: Suzuki GT500, SR500, BMW R80, BMW R100S

Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating

Post by Nicholas »

ConnerVT wrote:Yes, that was my mistake from before. I should of said that the 188 series (Round head jet) P-4 and P-4 Needle jets are made of Unobtanium. :oops:
I see, well I think I am going to have to pick my battles. If the throttle slide is made from unobtanium then the needle jet could be OK, because its looks like new, no visible wear on it....so I'll just replace the needles and once I'm back on the road.... I'll revisit. I am keen to have it ready for a tour through southern France. :wink:
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