Painting engine barrels and overheating
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
- Suzukidave
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3980
- Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2008 5:55 pm
- Country: US
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT750 x2 97 -1200 Bandit 86 GSXR1100
- Location: Lancaster Pa.
Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating
Looking at your broken oil injection line , do you feel it would be possible to drill out the broken piece of line in the elbow to a depth of maybe 3or 4 mm , clean up the end of the broken line and then re epoxy the old line back in to the elbow ? Worth a try anyways .
the older i get the faster i was
- Nicholas
- Around the block
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:01 am
- Country: United Kingdom
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: Suzuki GT500, SR500, BMW R80, BMW R100S
Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating
Yes that is exactly what I intended to do. I have measured up my lines and fittings. Will use two sized tubes, one to create a sleeve for the connectors onto the banjo fittings. I just need to fabricate a sleeve with an ID of approx. 4mm or 5mm, the OD of the 5/64 line (1.9mm or 2mm ID) is appox 4mm so I can slide that in with a bit of glue...then as you say drill through the existing tees and glue in the new lines.Suzukidave wrote:Looking at your broken oil injection line , do you feel it would be possible to drill out the broken piece of line in the elbow to a depth of maybe 3or 4 mm , clean up the end of the broken line and then re epoxy the old line back in to the elbow ? Worth a try anyways .
If that doesn’t work then these guys sell some nice barb style tees and tubes.
http://www.pneumadyne.com/pneumatic-tub ... ories.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I measured my banjo fittings:
ID : approx. 1.9mm to 2mm (5/64)
OD: approx. 4mm or 5mm - I need a micrometer!

Length: approx. 7mm
Sleeve size: 15mm
I am keen to know a bit about the Polaris valves as I am not sure if I need to replace mine.
I tested a few of them using a lubricant spray can. Into the inlet the valve opened at a level of pressure, into the bolt, nothing passed... So if I do not need to replace them...I wont!

- Nicholas
- Around the block
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:01 am
- Country: United Kingdom
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: Suzuki GT500, SR500, BMW R80, BMW R100S
Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating
I cannot seem to find 188 needle jets!tz375 wrote:They are probably 159 series with large hex jets
If they are large round jets, they use 188 series. They are the same AFAIK and are tapped foe different main jet threads.
The series # is marked above the P-4 size stamp.

Anyone know what other carbs or needle jet configurations work? I am scared I will throw my bike off if I do that...but maybe a modern carb would be easier to maintain?

- ConnerVT
- Novice racer
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:01 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T500R (now), T500M (40 yrs ago)
- Location: North of Albany, NY
Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating
Yes, that was my mistake from before. I should of said that the 188 series (Round head jet) P-4 and P-4 Needle jets are made of Unobtanium. 

- Nicholas
- Around the block
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:01 am
- Country: United Kingdom
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: Suzuki GT500, SR500, BMW R80, BMW R100S
Re: Painting engine barrels and overheating
I see, well I think I am going to have to pick my battles. If the throttle slide is made from unobtanium then the needle jet could be OK, because its looks like new, no visible wear on it....so I'll just replace the needles and once I'm back on the road.... I'll revisit. I am keen to have it ready for a tour through southern France.ConnerVT wrote:Yes, that was my mistake from before. I should of said that the 188 series (Round head jet) P-4 and P-4 Needle jets are made of Unobtanium.
