T500 ignition

[prmurat]

I am sure this had been asked before but I cannot find it: how long does points and condensers stay "good" on a 72 T500? Have to adjust points every other ride? Worth going for electronic ignition (which one ?)?.
By experience, on certain 3 cylinders kawie, points were a pain!
Thanks
Philippe

[Digger]

I might be a little premature with this answer, but here goes anyway ..... after consulting with a pal who races (and wins championships) with a 1967 T200 (with the odd bit of sponsorship help from friends), I've sourced one for my T500 from these folks.
At the same time, I bought a race kit for the T200, the team have fitted it and report that it is a wonderful bit of engineering, very well built and the fattest, bluest spark ever seen.....

I'll let you know how the T500 kit is when I get my hands on it

[prmurat]

Same as this one;
http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/ ... 61inst.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'll may try the Newtronic...
Philippe

[Digger]

By complete coincidence, the testimonial appeared on their website just this morning

[desmocat]

Think the answer is based on how much and what type of riding you're doing. For my '71 T500 street bike I use points, have for the past 7 years, and haven't had a problem with points going out of adjustment.

Now for my T500 road racer, I went with a Newtronics setup after hasselling with points throughout the race weekend. With the Newtronics (or any other non-contact ignition I'm sure) it's set it and forget it.

I will say that Newtronics didn't make a T500 kit, I adapted a T250 kit, which required modification or fabrication of every mechanical part...not for the faint of heart.

[prmurat]

Seems there is one now: SU7
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/laverda/itcatalog/i1.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Philippe

[Digger]

Update from me on the T500 restoration (makes a change, I'm usually found in the Jokes section with that other Brit ) - The Western system is all fitted, after a HUGE amount of modification. Bike is running absolutely beautifully, with the juiciest, bluest spark you ever did see.

Western have just announced they're not doing any further development on this system, so it's back to roadandraceignitions if you need one.

Wheels are coming off now for polishing & rebuilding with stainless spokes,and some nice new Avon rubber.

[johnakay]

Update from me on the T500 restoration (makes a change, I'm usually found in the Jokes section with that other Brit

I hope your not referring to me are ya pumpkin

[jabcb]

Am in the US and wasn't able to open Digger's links to Western Road and Race Ignitions .
Powerdynamo lists their sales partners here:
http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/partner.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A US supplier, HVCcycle, sells their system for about $570, but doesn't list any Suzuki models.
http://www.hvccycle.com/ignition-cdi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They list Newtronic models for about $220 for twins & $250 for triples.

Looks like ordering direct from Powerdynamo is currently better deal.
They list the T500 unit as 310 euros, which is currently about $419.
http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/ ... 61main.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I went with Newtronic for my GT750.
Both systems provide modern pointless ignition systems.
Powerdynamo also provides a new alternator & voltage regulator/rectifier.

Powerdynamo looks like an interesting choice for the T250/T350/T500, which have weak alternators and dismal headlight output. You pay more but get more.

Anyone have experience with Powerdynamo and 60/55W H4 headlights on these bikes?

[H2RICK]

Philippe, points in a T500 will last a long time.....with proper maintenance!!!

Here's how it's done......

Carefully remove the points lubricating felt from its little holder on the points plate.

Next, take a clean rag moistened with clean solvent and thoroughly clean the points cam by holding the rag against the cam and turning the engine over 2 or 3 complete revolutions. Check to make sure the cam is spotlessly clean and wipe off the excess solvent with another clean rag.

Now, make sure your lubrication felt is CLEAN. Wash the felt in clean solvent until it is as close to white as you can get it. This gets rid of the old degraded oil and crud in the felt. Squeeze out the excess solvent with a clean absorbent rag/towel and then let the felt air dry for a day or so. After the felt is dry, saturate it thoroughly with automatic transmission fluid by dipping it in some ATF and squeezing it with your fingers. Now that the felt is thoroughly saturated with ATF, give it a few GENTLE squeezes in another clean absorbent rag/towel to get rid of MOST of the excess ATF.

Then you need to take another piece of clean rag moistened with clean solvent and clean the rubbing blocks of the points that touch the points cam. Grit and old lubricant builds up on the rubbing blocks
and has to be got rid of occasionally. Inspect your rubbing blocks annually at the very least to keep the grit buildup to a minimum.

Next, install the lubricating felt back in its little holder on the ignition plate and make sure it is nicely square with the points cam and touching the cam with about 2-3 millimetres of the face of the felt.

Reset your points gaps, reset your timing and you're good to go.
Add a drop of ATF to the lubricating felt every 2,000 - 3,000 kilometres or every spring (whichever comes first) when you first get the bike back on the road.

Do the initial cleanup of the felt and add the drop or two of ATF as mentioned and your points will last for a long time WITHOUT degradation of timing due to worn points rubbing blocks.

The points in my 550A are factory originals !!! Admittedly, there are only 8,000 or so miles on them but they ARE original. Every spring when I get the bike out of the shed, I check the timing (hasn't needed adjustment since 1990), put a drop of ATF on the lubricating felt and I'm ready for another season. I clean the lubricating felt about every 5 years or so. I also drag a clean white uncoated business card moistened with contact cleaner between the points contacts. The contact cleaner leaves a nice film of anti-corrosion fluid on the points, as well.

If you look after your points like this AND you have genuine Suzuki points in there, they will last seemingly forever. Aftermarket point sets are not anywhere near the quality of the factory originals.
My .02 worth.....

[oldjapanesebikes]

+1

My '76 was on the original points till last year - and I only changed to a Boyer because a) I dropped the bike and wiped out the original points plate (along with the points etc ) and b) because I happened to have a Boyer unit sitting on the shelf that I could use. Like Rick says, points work fine for most folks if you look after them.

[jabcb]

Found answers to my questions about using 60/55W H4 headlight.

Per diamondj, stock alternator is inadequate & have 3 choices:
1) rewind stator for more output for $180
2) use powerdynamo. Have good results
3) alternatively go HID
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