GT750 Drag Bike

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:12 am

The recipe is simple.

- Take one stock tank
- Close off the filler neck
- Fill any dents, badge holes etc
- Polish and wax
- make 2 piece mold of tank
- polish and wax mold
- lay up 2 layers of carbon fiber and suitable resin
- Remove
- Sit back and admire all that work
- paint
- Fit on bike and sit back with beverage and enjoy the view.

I have a couple of cafe race type tank molds but nothing that would work for that frame. At Indy last year a couple of racers with GSX1100 s had glass or carbon tank covers that looked like a stock 1100 tank. That might work if you can find one.

It would be really easy to end up with a tank and cover that weigh more than a stock tank. That would be a bummer.

Barry S. · Post by **Barry S.** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:10 am

Bune said that two of the rods were not like the other...they came from a different time and place so they put the light one in the middle and matched the outer two. They were pretty far out from each other.

I think that was pretty common, seems like Suzuki had more than one manufacturer and the weights were different.

Barry S. · Post by **Barry S.** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:13 am

Bune said that two of the rods were not like the other...they came from a different time and place so they put the light one in the middle and matched the outer two. They were pretty far out from each other.

I think that was pretty common, seems like Suzuki had more than one manufacturer and the weights were different.

from Smokeriders site:

We have, however, found rods to differ as much as 15 grams since Suzuki uses four different manufacturers to make rods. It therefore will become necessary to carry out only this portion of balancing, which is to even out the rod weight by determining the lightest one, and then taking off enough material from the other two to bring them down to the correct weight. Next, checkout crankshaft alignment. New cranks are often as much as .007" off, while only .001" to .002" is acceptable for racing.

If you have installed new crank that was perfectly aligned and your engine vibrates, you may be one of the unfortunate ones with the 15 gram difference in rod weight. If your low mileage crank was smooth, trueing may be all you need. Poor balance along with excessive crankshaft runout can result in a loss of as much as 10bhp, so spend the money to do the job right.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:45 pm

Hi Kevin , what ya been doing .. kinda quiet lately ?

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:24 pm

Hi Dave, some slight changes are happening on the head inserts to set the squish clearance and combustion chamber volume. Should be done by Wednesday. The porting is done...the GT250 front end swap is also done. Brakes are bled and all is working properly. Small changes to the tach mounting and wiring. The front end reduced weight by 14 lbs 7oz almost all of it rotating mass. Main harness rewiring will be done early this week. The plan is to have the motor back in the frame by Friday and restart shortly after. It will be a busy week...

I'll have to keep the JEMCo's for the Martin, MI race in May but will have new chambers under construction this summer... so, I'll put my JEMCos and my 3-1 pipe up for sale this summer.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:41 am

Changing the head shape and volume? Sounds interesting. I wonder what he changed and the rationale.

I may have to see if i can borrow those pipes to test them back to back on the dyno. That could prove to be very interesting. I have stock L pipes with and without crossovers, Strader 3 into 1 and your two pipes. Could be an interesting afternoon on the dyno.

Don't ask me how I'll get it organized though

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:23 am

Richard , you remember following your specs i also changed the shape and volume of my squish head .

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:14 pm

yes Dave,

That was to adjust teh shape and volume to a more appropriate design for a street bike. Kevis started with 13:1 inserts for a race bike and they have been tweaked to maybe a better squish angle or maybe a higher compression for Kevin's drag race motor. It's possible that his head guy wants a narrower squish band or lower CR - or higher etc., That's why I'm interested to hear more. Gotta keep learning.

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Mon May 03, 2010 9:23 am

New and improved for 2010...nearly complete. Steve Hamilton...I want to say thanks for putting up with me. I will do my best to bring back some fast ET's.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon May 03, 2010 2:23 pm

Your improvements for this yrs season are great .. those you can see and all those you cannot see :~)

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon May 03, 2010 5:56 pm

Looking good Kevin. Hope you're ready to be thrown back hard onto the wheelie bars as the bike accelerates like a Saturn V

Tom Garcia · Post by **Tom Garcia** » Mon May 03, 2010 6:09 pm

Nice to see it's almost completely back together....

Wonder how that set of H2 TNT tapered head stinger pipes I have would work????

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Mon May 03, 2010 6:12 pm

I've been ready for that for 30 years...now, its time to get to business and make this Buffalo sprint its skinny little ass off. If everything works the way its suppose to, I should be able to knock a few 10th's off....

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon May 03, 2010 10:38 pm

Kevin , for the class your in do they allow any type fairing ?

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Tue May 04, 2010 4:22 am

Hi Dave,
Yes they do allow them...however, only 5 racers in the group use front fairings. Almost all the H2's have a very long rear tail piece that stretches back from the seat to the rear tire. Because of their shape, its like a streamlined body/fender of sorts. The current plan is to get one for the GS drag-frame when that gets built. We've looked at about a dozen different ones on ebay.

GT750 Drag Bike

Prep for Martin Race 2010