GT750 reed intake idea's

durgam · Post by **durgam** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:46 pm

Heres the inner half of the caliper. I havent done andy radii or much cosmetic stuff to it yet. Its still early in the design stages.

two-stroke-brit · Post by **two-stroke-brit** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:29 pm

hey that is looking very interesting ,i cant think why its not been done before, but way to go ,keep us informed.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:44 pm

Kevin , is that a for sure you are sending a sample AC reed to Durgam so he can begin the programing ? as i have a set here i can send one .

durgam · Post by **durgam** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:38 am

As long as you few gents aggree on one, I'll do it up. I dont need any money up front, just the part.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:53 am

Durgam , while you are doing the boxes are you thinking of modifying a GT cylinder for reeds your self ? as with the milling machines you could do a beautiful job prepping your block intake side for the boxes . You might enjoy these pictures of a modded GT engine punched out to 1000cc with lots of quality machine work done http://picasaweb.google.de/yogibear2204 ... eileMotor2# , http://picasaweb.google.de/yogibear2204 ... ileMotor22# , http://picasaweb.google.de/yogibear2204 ... linderkopf#

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:55 am

And then if you really wanted to get tricky a set of billet GT cases would be sweet

http://www.mattoonmachine.com/Billet_Cases.html

durgam · Post by **durgam** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:45 pm

Absolutely gorgeous. I just met a guy here locally that builds race sleds. 600 twins and 1500 triples pushing out 300hp on nitrous. (wicked)He uses those cases, i think.

Ive thought about doing the mod to my motor as well. I read a post from Lane where he used the cylinder riser, milled 3mm from the top of the cylinder, matched ports, etc, etc... got 80 HP at the wheel. He used a 75 jug though. Besides the spigot studs, are there any other differances from my 72 jug?

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:20 pm

The 72's we have measured so far tend to come in a couple of configurations and have not yet managed to work out if that was poor manufacturing tolerances or if Suzuki change port timing on the run.

73 ans 74 ports are the same. For 75 (M) Suzuki changed the intake and exhaust ports. The exhaust was in improvement, but the intake port change killed the bottom end and didn't contribute much at the top end.

The best block for a mild street motor are the early ones K/L. 3mm spacer under an MAB block helps to keep intake timing where it belongs, but not much difference other than that. There's enough metal in both style blocks for moderate port carving, but don't get too enthusiastic on widening transfers or in squaring off the exhaust port roof. If you try it, you'll soon understand why.

GT750 are in a very tame state of tune and are smooth easy to ride bikes. Making it into a hot rod requires shedding weight to avoid it becoming an unwieldy brute of a thing.

With the M Suzuki changed a whole slew of parts, but I assume your question related to the barrels.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:37 pm

I have read that the early 72 blocks with the bolt on intakes have a bit more metal thickness above the exhaust ports , i dont know if this is because the exhaust ports are lower or its just thicker .

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:40 pm

You can see Richard i really snuck in that boost port without cutting into the water jacket

durgam · Post by **durgam** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:58 pm

Through-out this michigan winter(august til june) Ill work on mapping out my cylinder. We've got a CMM here at the shop I can get some real accurate data on. That is if I can ever get the jug off. Total pain in the arse....

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:51 pm

Make up a puller plate out 1/2" steel with drilled holes over all the cylinder small bolts and threaded holes above all the studs . Tighten down evenly and maybe a bit of heat around the base and even the most stuck cylinder can be pulled off . A tip is after you get the cylinder lifted say 1/2" loosen the pusher bolts and smack the cylinder back down as this will help loosen it up .

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:04 pm

Dave

AFAIK, the difference is that the port is lower but the water jacket is the same. Casting cores are made from sand and they do move a bit in relation to final machined dimensions, so there can be quite a variation from one to another.

On Butch we ground a number of different boost port configurations and none of them broke into the water jacket.

All of them are right where the ring ends are though and they are all a PIA to get enough port area as you know from yours.

The boost ports I'm working on for a piston ported motor are even more of a PIA with the intakes being offset from the exhaust and transfer port center line.

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:29 pm

durgam wrote:Absolutely gorgeous. I just met a guy here locally that builds race sleds. 600 twins and 1500 triples pushing out 300hp on nitrous. (wicked)He uses those cases, i think.

Ive thought about doing the mod to my motor as well. I read a post from Lane where he used the cylinder riser, milled 3mm from the top of the cylinder, matched ports, etc, etc... got 80 HP at the wheel. He used a 75 jug though. Besides the spigot studs, are there any other differances from my 72 jug?

On a 72/73 cylinder, you could add 5mm to the plate and take 5 more off the top and be right where I am.

Lane

durgam · Post by **durgam** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:05 pm

WOW. 5mm seems like a lot. Does any further porting need to be ground out, and is a 5mm plate available?

GT750 reed intake idea's

dual piaton brake