Buying Parts- yes/no/maybe so

mymechanicsucks · Post by **mymechanicsucks** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:05 pm

So gonna take this opportunity to squeeze you all for a little of your bad parts knowledge. I would assume that there would be a good if not great story that came wihen you aquired the knowledge that you had just bought and installed the worst POS part in your bike.

I was told for points and condensor that you have to go OEM or you are gonna have major problems, and in my previous post the warning seems to be unanimous that Keyster Carb Kits are to be avoided at all costs.

I am gonna be getting quite a bit of parts in the near future and maybe you could list some gets and don't gets from your history with these beasts.

Thanks again

Jerry

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:44 pm

OK, Let's start

Things to avoid:

Cheap points and condensers - they tend to fail too early
Keyster jets and needles - gaskets and float valves are OK
Splitfire plugs or any other gimmick/fad plugs - get good plugs (NGK)
Cheap automotive plug caps with resistors - they can break up
Automotive oil - unless in it's the only option
Mega expensive racing oil - it's a waste of money on the street
PWC or snowmobile oils - they are too thin/low temperature
Avgas - not suitable
Race gas - waste of money on the street
Cheap gas from dodgy suppliers - detonation is expensive
Cheap and slippy tires - falling off hurts pride, pocket and person
Cheap tools - Start with Craftsman and work up from there
High mileage Chrysler products - bait anyone?
Used brake hoses - brakes only slow you down, but sometimes that's good.

Low prices for good stuff is good but low prices for cr*p is a waste of money at best and may hurt you.

pjmcburney · Post by **pjmcburney** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 1:43 am

tz375 wrote:OK, Let's start
Things to avoid:

Keyster jets and needles - gaskets and float valves are OK

Low prices for good stuff is good but low prices for cr*p is a waste of money at best and may hurt you.

Start 'devil's advocate' mode...

Actually IMHO, everything in the Keyster kits is usable EXCEPT the needles.

I've had quite good results with the main and pilot jets. You can get genuine Mikuni jets from a number of sources fairly cheap, so if you're really paranoid, go down that path.
The Keyster choke plungers work fine and all the gaskets and the float valves are no dramas either.

DON'T order carb parts from Suzuki unless you've just won the Lotto...

'Devil's advocate' mode off.

Make sure all the other stuff you buy has the Suzuki 'S' on it or is in sealed Suzuki packaging (if you're buying replacement parts).

I bought some foot-peg rubbers from K&K that literally disintegrated in three months only to find they were (not so) cheap knock-offs (no 'S', in fact no markings at all!).
Replaced them with genuine/OEM (for a similar price) one's that look as good as new two years on and expect them to keep going for another twenty years.

Cheers
Paul

H2RICK · Post by **H2RICK** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:34 pm

TZ +1.....

and I'll add a blurb about chains. Do NOT/NOT/NOT buy a drive chain unless it says D.I.D. or RK/Takasago or EK (Enuma) on the box or (if you can afford it) Regina. There are a zillion cheapazz Chinese-made chains out there that are suitable only for a coaster brake bicycle....although that's kind of doubtful, too.

Same goes for roller, ball and needle bearings. Buy stuff with a brand name: SKF, FAG, Nachi (and other Japanese-made bearings) instead of the cheapazz Chinese crap. Chinese bearings WILL fail 'wayyyyy sooner than you can imagine and also cause more damage than you can imagine.
The one exception to this rule is tapered steering bearings. Those in the "green box", although not marked ON the actual bearing, are usually made in Japan.
I'm not too sure what All-Balls uses in their kits. You would have to check the actual packaging since All-Balls buys stuff from a variety of sources. That's one of the reasons I'm kind of leery about their products. Methinks they are getting away with supplying questionable stuff by means of a trick name and a slick advertising program.

My .02 worth....

mymechanicsucks · Post by **mymechanicsucks** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:58 pm

SO I also should get a manual. Cna't seem to find one online for download and found 3 on ebay. Any preferences

http://cgi.ebay.ca/CLYMER-SUZUKI-Titan- ... 20adc3eb21

http://cgi.ebay.ca/SUZUKI-FACTORY-SERVI ... 33568f1205

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Suzuki-T500-Haynes-M ... 518d9f9f46

TLRam1 · Post by **TLRam1** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 12:24 am

There is a manual somewhere because I have it, 40MB is too large for me to email...I think, let me check. I can only email 25MB.

I'm looking.

TLRam1 · Post by **TLRam1** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 12:29 am

Owners manual

http://web.ticino.com/maurizioch/pg5.htm

I can't locate the service manual, many of my links are no good. If I had enough time I may could find or someone here can easier.

rbond · Post by **rbond** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 12:25 pm

If you find the computer file, burn it to cd and mail it. Just a thought.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:48 pm

http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/t500_files/tech.htm