So I have been having this ticking kind of sound, posted about it and H2Rick suggested it may be a ring sticking on a exhaust port or the exhaust not tightened enough. pulled the heads off and this is what it looks like.
the photos are left to right if your standing in front of the bike.
So you know the sound was coming from the side that has the tan colored plug, I can tell just looking at the plugs that things aren't right but I don't know how to fix it.
H2Rick if you see these I allready know that based on the carbon build up I need to switch 2 stroke oils, (I won't tell you that I have been using the Canadian tire brand oil )
what I would like to know is based on those photos how do I get both plugs to look the same?
and if it is a ring catching on a port making that sound, how can I tell?
T200 (full restoration)
CL450 (on the go now)
T350 (sort of started)
"Even if the voices in my head aren't real, They have some pretty good ideas"
One sides definately got a richer fuel/oil mixture than the other,but all things being considered it could be just that that sides getting more oil. So if thats the case it could be a faulty check valve in one of the CCI lines to that side. This assumption is based on the fact your carbs are set up correctly and have correct float levels, good needle valves etc.
If the audible 'tick' is coming from a ring, you'd have to remove the cylinders and check the rings in the pistons, check the locating ring pins, AND the ends of the rings for comparison to where they lie in the bores.
If the rings been snagging it will usually leave a bright spot on its face there in that area and a fine line in the bore if its right at the end of the ring.
Just as a precaution make sure the rings are flat when you remove them so also check and that they do not have a kink in them.
Thanks Allan, will check that after work and post some pic's of what the barrels look like.
was really hoping to not pull the barrels. its been too nice here to work on the bike, should be riding instead.
the float needles are new, the main jets are new #130 all the other bits are long since discontinued so were cleaned and put back in.
T200 (full restoration)
CL450 (on the go now)
T350 (sort of started)
"Even if the voices in my head aren't real, They have some pretty good ideas"
Did you do a compression test? Did you check to see if you have strong spark? Incomplete combustion due to either one, could cause the oily ,rich symptoms. The ticking could just be a bit of excessive piston clearance on that cylinder. From the pictures you posted of the exhaust port view, the rings looked reasonable. Ring problems should show up as a scar or defect on the cylinder wall without pulling the block off. Check the simple stuff first. It may save some grief later. Can't hurt.
Fred
Fred compression was fine.
here are pics of the barrels
hard to tell, what i did discover is that the cylinder that was rich wasn,t getting oil to the piston, the banjo bolt was dry and so was the hole going to the cylinder (the line had oil in it)
T200 (full restoration)
CL450 (on the go now)
T350 (sort of started)
"Even if the voices in my head aren't real, They have some pretty good ideas"
ja-moo wrote:Rings are shot, all the blow-by. Have to measure the bores if it might need a overbor.
Seriously? I just rebuilt that motor, and it was bored out to those pistons, ever since as back up I've been looking for the last size pistons and have not been able to find them.
Noooooo.........!
T200 (full restoration)
CL450 (on the go now)
T350 (sort of started)
"Even if the voices in my head aren't real, They have some pretty good ideas"
Odin.
The only thing that comes to mind, is the pictures show cylinders that appear fairly polished for a newish rebuild. Maybe a re-hone with a more aggressive cross hatch is in order for the rings to bed in. Check the ring gap to see if it is still OK, clean the pistons, and re-assemble carefully. Make sure you use non-synthetic injector oil to allow the rings to actually scuff in.
You should be able to find Suzuki CCI or equivalent in Victoria somewhere.
How many miles since the rebuild? Did you measure the compression, or did it just feel OK? It should probably measure about 120 psi plus or minus, if its like some of the other Suzuki two strokes of the day. I'm not sure what else to advise, but I'm sure there will be input to clarify all that is foggy. Good luck with it, as the 200 is a fairly uncommon beast that deserves to live again. Cheers. Fred
Use dino oil for sure. And don't let it idle too long, no heavy loads for a long period of time, but is good to run it to 5 or 6 grand in 3rd and then shut the throttle and let the motor pull your speed down Do this a few times. You have to get the pressure up and the oil burned off to set the rings.
If you "baby" it, the rings don't seat. You have a ton of blow-by....
. where should I be taking the ring gap measurement from?[/quote]
About a half inch from the top of the bore, and square the ring by slipping the piston into the bore from the bottom, and rest it on the crown. Measure the gap. Fairly simple. Cheers.
Fred
ja-moo wrote:Use dino oil for sure. And don't let it idle too long, no heavy loads for a long period of time, but is good to run it to 5 or 6 grand in 3rd and then shut the throttle and let the motor pull your speed down Do this a few times. You have to get the pressure up and the oil burned off to set the rings.
If you "baby" it, the rings don't seat. You have a ton of blow-by....
crap (pardon my french) nobody told me that before, I babied it last time, she's only been back on the road for a year and abit since the resto and i just putter around on her. once a week some times twice a week sometimes every other week (all depends on if my son is of visiting his mom or not) my rides are around town mostly and sometimes a sunday cruse at most a 100k in a ride but not often.
T200 (full restoration)
CL450 (on the go now)
T350 (sort of started)
"Even if the voices in my head aren't real, They have some pretty good ideas"
I'd suggest that you glaze bust the bore first with a ball hone- just enough to take teh shine off. Then wash the bores out until they are spotlessly clean. Then inspect the ports. there should be a chamfer around each port of 1.0 - 1.5mm.
With break in the thing to keep in mind is that you are progressively adding more load. So low revs, low load is fine for the first few minutes but by the end of break in it should be up to full load full throttle. Synthetic oil is to "slippy" and that makes it hard for the rings and bore surface to mate, so use regular old style oil.
Obviously you are going to check out the oiling system before you run it again, and you are going to check that brown cylinder to see why it is running so lean. you may have to raise that needle one clip position. Double check timing on both sides.
The oily plug is about right for a motor running so softly, but the other side looks like it was run hard 0 but it wasn't so check everything on that side.
Just a thought about those plugs - I spent the day today trying to figure out why I had one cylinder running rich on my GT750 and giving me a plug that looked very similar to yours. The other two were just about perfect, much as your good one. Turns out the carbs work better when the float hasn't sunk
I've swapped in another (hopefully fully floating) float and so far so good. Might be something else for you to check.
Ian
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
Gosh darned it! I paid out the ass (pardon my french again) for over night shipping and the fact that these were nos parts and the bastered sent me the wrong rings!! I am seriously pissed right now.
opps take that back, just inspected the rings and they are stamped with the right size! he used a different box to send them out
so what should my end gap ring measurement be?
T200 (full restoration)
CL450 (on the go now)
T350 (sort of started)
"Even if the voices in my head aren't real, They have some pretty good ideas"
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