Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 8:43 pm

I bought some small parts from Marcel too. Great guy to do business with.

Perhaps your emails got eaten by a spam filter...

Debby

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:03 pm

Marcel is very reliable but he goes out looking for NOS parts so he may not be in office at the moment.
Ive bought a few things from him in the past and never had an issue.

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:27 pm

Which would be easier to deal with and be cheaper in the long run, get a new carb to airbox adaptor/horn ( old one is to stiff to get back on )
or should I just get a set of pod filters?.

I just about yanked the carbs off my GT trying to get the stock air tube back on, even after letting it sit in the sun to soften up.

also do I need to adjust any jetting to run pod filters?

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:47 pm

Stock airbox, with K&N stock replacement filter.

To soften the rubber ducting, use a hair blow dryer.

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:13 pm

H2RTuner wrote:Stock airbox, with K&N stock replacement filter.

To soften the rubber ducting, use a hair blow dryer.

I will try the hair dryer and see what happens, is there any other trick to get it on? I tryed to get the horn on the carb intakes first and then move it up to the box and that just wouldnt happen.
would it be easier if I losened the airbox it self while trying to ge the horn on?.

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 12:48 am

By all means, loosen the air box. Don't hold the heat gun too close to the rubber, it can melt fairly easily. Doing the hair dryer method usually works well, especially in my freezing shop, when it snows outside. You'll get the hang of it, just think of all those hard to get on rubber parts as part of the giant fun and games event you are having with the bike.

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:22 am

Thanks Guys (and gals). I'll wait another week, then email him again.

Stu

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 3:46 pm

Pretty cool tool. Now that I have the rotor off, I started the motor and the vibration seems to maybe be just a bit better, not sure...however, when I turn the engine over very slowly with the kick starter, I can hear, about every revolution, some kind of clicking noise, like something metal falling. I think I need to see behind the big rubber seal (?) that is behind the rotor. Can that come off without taking the engine apart? I'm also going to take the clutch cover off because the sound could be coming from there. thanks for all help
David

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 7:50 pm

The seals have a retainer flange as can be seen in the pic. I have been told that you can rip the old seal out, grind the seal lip off (it's rubber clad metal) and reinstall it with silicone adhesive. Of course the proper way is to (shudder) split the cases and install them as they were designed to work. I have both left and right outer seals if you or anyone else needs them. I don't have a Buffalo anymore so these are just occupying shelf space. Both are new and came in a seal kit from PartsNmore.

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:46 pm

Coyote i'll take one or both from you, how much are they.

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:29 pm

Allan, I'll take $10 for the pair + postage.

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:29 pm

Thanks for the idea. I was wondering about the crank bearing that I guess is right behind the seal. Is it possible to replace it from the outside. (I just hate the idea of splitting cases)? However, I did take the clutch apart and now I don't hear that metal dropping noise, but the outer clutch housing seems to be pretty loose. Any quidelines on how loose is too loose? Also, when I turn off the engine, after the crank has stopped, I hear, for about a second, some spinning noise like a clutch bearing or something. Normal? Thanks to all
David

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:17 am

Hi guys, my RG is on the way, see it at
http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php ... page=rg250
Can't wait to ride this one, well i feel that way about all the bikes i do:-)

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:58 pm

I'd fix the clutch issues first and sort out that side of the engine, then try a restart to see how the noise sounds then.
The clutch basket should not be slack so you can easily shake it on the gear when installed, nor should it be able to rock back and forth easily either.
Also check the clutch sleeve bearing and its collar for any pitting or fractures in the bearing cage.
finally just so you know you cant pull the side crank seal out and take out an end bearing cause its pinned to the case with a location dowel, the cases have to be split.

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 3:19 pm

Suzsmokeyallan wrote: finally just so you know you cant pull the side crank seal out and take out an end bearing cause its pinned to the case with a location dowel, the cases have to be split.

And then pressed off the crank .

Archived Posts

GT750k stock air box or pods?

Thanks the tool worked perfectly, now...

What about the crank bearing?

RG250 Progress page