Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 2:12 pm

vjmwau wrote:easy one mate:-)
See this one I did a couple of years ago
http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php ... age=69t250

Gorgeous!

Here's my original and unrestored '74 GT250L.

Had it up to 90mph on the highway yesterday. :rock:

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:03 pm

bloody hell, that is the best one I have EVER seen. How have you managed to keep it all these years without marking it??

A mate of mine has a 71 T500 in purple from new, similar condition to your GT, only marks on it are rub marks on top of the side covers. The motor does need a top end refresh though.

A few of us went for a hoot yesterday, I was on my T20
http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php ... 0&page=t20
a mate on my S3 Kawa and other mates on 4 strokes, Honda 350 twin and a XL250, we covered just under 300K's, I know cause I had to fuel up twice:-)
Almost all back roads, very little traffic and a lot of it at full noise. Great time.

Got an RG250 in the works right now, can't wait to see what that will do

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:46 am

Brad whatever you did, undo it,,,,,,, Seriously though, check over all the parts from following the parts diagrams to make sure everythings fitted back correctly as it was.
Sorry i dont have a 380 or shop manual, so any of you 380 guys better step in now as to what little glitch on the kickstart shaft assy may have gotten set up wrong.
If the starter shaft wont rachet back up, have you made sure the return spring is hooked onto the appropriate sections at its ends.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:14 am

It's not the battery. You could remove the battery on a GT500 and would still run, but the lights & horn wouldn't work.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:59 am

You have to wind the spring up when you pet it back together so it will have enough pressure to return the kicker.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:09 am

Cool.

How?

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:26 am

I didn't end up ordering from him, but only because he has a 7 month backlog. He does real nice stuff. I ended up getting a fibeglass tank and seat from motovelocit in the UK. The seat has an integrated oil tank and the gas tank has the sump that sits inside the top frame rails. Both are real nice pieces that should look sweeet all painted up. Fortunately, I was able to sell some of my CR750 parts to cover the cost of the tank and seat.

I love the CB750's as well. I have a '78 super sport that I did a full cafe race restoration on 2 years ago. It looks great and is a screamer.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:26 am

I didn't end up ordering from him, but only because he has a 7 month backlog. He does real nice stuff. I ended up getting a fibeglass tank and seat from motovelocit in the UK. The seat has an integrated oil tank and the gas tank has the sump that sits inside the top frame rails. Both are real nice pieces that should look sweeet all painted up. Fortunately, I was able to sell some of my CR750 parts to cover the cost of the tank and seat.

I love the CB750's as well. I have a '78 super sport that I did a full cafe race restoration on 2 years ago. It looks great and is a screamer.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:43 am

Hey Chris,

Does motovelocit have a website? And chance you could post some pictures of the tank and seat you got from them?

Thanks,

Jim

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:44 am

jbswear wrote:Cool.

How?

Complicated. If it's like the T20, you pull the shaft out slightly, wind it past the stop, then install the pawl mechanism and push it back in and allow it to come to rest against the stop.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:44 am

radman wrote:
jbswear wrote:Cool.

How?

Complicated. If it's like the T20, you pull the shaft out slightly, wind it past the stop, then install the pawl mechanism and push it back in and allow it to come to rest against the stop.

It is the same, wind it counterclockwise, pay attention 'cause the internal spring is somewhat stiff.

I guess you turned the kickshaft whitout the cover...

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 9:59 am

Hello everyone. I've been a member for the past few months. I haven't posted as of yet because all my questions were answered in past posts and I'm not keyboard fluent. I completed the total rebuild of my T500M recently only to find that it absolutely will not run. I'm sure the problem lies in the carbs as the timing is correct. At least the plugs fire at .134 before tdc. On the first kick after installing the carbs the engine runs just for a second and then nothing. I've had cars and bikes that run crappy because of faulty carbs but never one that won't run at all. Could I have made a mistake in the engine assembly somewhere? Any help would be much appreciated. I'll try to attach a pic of the beast. http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll73 ... /T500M.jpg

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:23 am

Sweet looking!

Are the plugs wet or dry? Never had one of these so I don't know if you can cross spark plug wires...

Tom

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:33 am

The plugs appear to me to be dry. After leaving the petcock open for a couple of minutes I get gas in the crankcase, but no gas comes out of the float bowl overflow. Go figure.
Joe

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:41 am

I meant to say when I leave the petcock on prime for a couple of minutes. When I lay the spark plug on the cylinder head and bring the piston to tdc the plug fires at .134 before tdc. When it fires it has a strong spark. I'm using a dial indicator in the plug hole to measure tdc.
Joe

Archived Posts

Project complete but won't run!