So here it is, the swingarm bearing conversion kit from Marcel Vlaandere in the Netherlands.
Basically it consists of a full length spacer/collar with the end diameters reduced and the inner races pressed onto them. Then theres the two outer roller bearings and two dust cap o-rings as well as a new grease nipple.
Its a well made design and it should last a long time once its regularly greased.
But now the starter lever won't return back to its starting position. Before I try to figure it out on my own with the manual and eff it up more, can you guys offer any hints?
Brad make sure you have the locator dowels in the cover or case so it sits correctly. If not the kickshaft can bind on the casting inside the oil seal and create your present condition. Try loosening all the clutch cover screws, tap on the case with a soft mallet to shift it and see if the starter lever will return.
Maybe the ratchet exited from the stopper screwed on the case, it happens if you turned the kick starter shaft with the cover off.
Slide out the on sight gear and take a look.
If so, you have to turn counterclockwise the ratchet and reput it into the stopper.
Damn, I had this same problem with mine last year when I put everything back together. Problem is I forgot what I did to fix it. But I remember it was so simple when I figured it out that I was imbaressed when I did get it working right.
It was not a problem with binding. I think I removed the clutch, put the return spring, gear ect, in place with the kick start at the top, leaving bolt 8 loose, rotated the kick start down compressing the spring, and then tightened bolt number 8 in the picture, but not sure. If that doesn't work and I remember what I did I will let you know.
Thanks for that. Your description sounds like the sticker that's on the bit I'm getting resprayed. The replacement I have is quite different. So, I shall source another.
Now my next picky question for the panel (always chasing perfection ): In terms of placement on the 71 oil tank - does the CCI sticker sit beside the oil sight lens or down below the line/crease in the tank? From pics I've seen of brochures, the placement is different on various models.
Mike i wish i could help you with how the OEM sticker looks but i never saw an original one back in 1971 on a Titan so i have no idea just how it looked.
As for the final placement, id guess it was applied in front of the sight lens so its top is just under the seam on the tank, BUT its also possible some left the factory in other locations.
Try either position, on the crease or in the middle of it and see which one you like the best.
Personally id not clearcoat over it as ive seen some decals with time crack when coated over,,, but thats just me.
A bit of help please. I have rebuilt a GT500 and have almost completed the job. One thing I have noticed is when the bike is started in neutral the rev counter works ok. As soon as the clutch is engaged and the bike is put into gear the rev counter dies and goes to zero. When I release the clutch and move off the rev counter bursts into life again. Is this normal?
Got the new chain etc but I can't get the front sprocket off the T500
Looks like it's been there forever. Sprayed it with CRC to try and loosen the nut but I just can't shift it at all. The nut is a bit rounded on the edges, probably from someone tightening/untightening with a wrench. My socket doesn't seem to grip too well cos of this and I scared I'm gonna round the nut off completely. I've tried wrapping the old chain around the sprocket and jamming it with a screwdriver to stop the sprocket spinning as I try to undo it but am only having limited effect.
How can I get this sucker off and also do it without ruining the nut? Thanks for any ideas - I'm a bit frustrated at the moment as I don't seem to be making much progress (lucky it's winter and I can't ride anyway).
A pneumatic rattle-gun with the appropriate socket will whip that sucker off in less than a second, and you won't even need to jam the sprocket or otherwise lock the transmission, just put the bike in gear.
The multiple, sudden, shocks do the job nicely.
I bought a cheap compressor, gun and bits and pieces for about $150 a while back. It's perfect for working on bikes, but I probably couldn't use it with an air-sander for instance...
Use it to tighten the nut back on as well... just don't go too crazy with it and strip the thread on the shaft - although I'd reckon you're more likely to strip the nut first.