Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Mon May 12, 2008 5:03 am

I started out with a 74 GT185 in 75, at the ripe old age of 15. At that time in WV you only had to have a drivers learner permit to ride a bike on the road, so it let me start driving a year ahead of my friends with cars.

It is a fine starter bike for a small person that doesn't want to go much over 55mph. Mine would do 70 if I had a long enough straight stretch with a good tailwind. Regretfully sometime about ten years ago Mom tired of it sitting in the garage for numerous years without being moved, and gave it away to somebody without me even knowing it until months later.

I wouldn't hesitate on the $400 if it is in decent shape. If I remember right mine was about $800 new from the dealer in 75. Which was my life savings at the time.

Kevin

Post by **Admin** » Mon May 12, 2008 5:05 am

rod pin welds?

Post by **Admin** » Mon May 12, 2008 8:23 am

I don't know about whether it was apart or not - I just got the bike and have not ridden it much. Is there a way that injector oil could be coming out of that particular vent? If not, I'm sure its tranny fluid. I put 10w-40 in it according t o the Clymer manual.

Gary

Post by **Admin** » Mon May 12, 2008 9:56 am

If the tranny was over filled it can come out the vent .. Dave

Post by **Admin** » Mon May 12, 2008 5:41 pm

My little Honda 125 came from Denver and didn't run too well here in California (about 800'ASL). I cleaned the carb and found that the jets had been changed for the higher alltitude. I put stock jets in it and it runs great. Maybe you'll find the same thing.

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 8:13 am

If the engine has been apart, the PO may have forgot to put in the oil separator plate that mounts to the inside of the top engine case. This allows the tranny to breathe through that vent hole by the oil pump but prevents oil being thrown out the vent itself. If the plate is missing, the tranny gears will throw oil out the vent hole like crazy. Don't ask me how I found this out about 30+ years ago.....

However, as Dave says, FIRST make sure you haven't overfilled your tranny.
BTW, 10W40 engine oil really sucks as a transmission lubricant. Get yourself some BelRay Gear Saver in a straight 85W grade....or straight 90W if you live in a hot climate. Your tranny and clutch will thank you.

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 8:39 am

Not for me, Allan. There are only 2 black bikes I'd ever consider "ownable" by me in stock trim/paint:
1) GT550M in the black with gold pinstriping
2) GL1200 (available in 1983 only....the last of the nekkid Wings) in the black with gold pinstriping....and I'd have to be REALLY old to ride a Wing of any flavour....but IF I had to ride one, this would be it.

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 8:42 am

Maybe he means that someone welded up the big end pins ?? For whatever reason ???

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 9:13 am

just dropping in to say, yes, I am still alive, I knew you were all concerned about that

here is a page on the recent vjmc rally here in AU
http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php ... e=rally_08
Can you pick which bike is mine

Of late I have been on the dark side building a GPZ750, oops did I swear

Here is a page on that, not much to see yet
http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php ... z&page=gpz

Also on the floor is a RG250, just started working on it and the first thing i have to do is get the motor running to check condition, at the moment it has a very stuck idle jet in the right carb, and proving very hard to get out , I am down to my second last resort, mill it out, failing that I will need a replacement. Good news is the motor has 150psi each side. OK all for now, talk soon.

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 12:52 pm

For racing applications you could weld the big end pins to the wheels so the crank doesnt go out of alignment, but for an everyday road machine its really not necessary.

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 3:38 pm

Allan,

You are correct. I had the rod pins welded as an extra measure. The rods,rod pins,big end bearings crank bearing, thurst washers and crank seals were all replaced with new. I don't even want to know what I have invested in the 380. But I am trying to make it live as long as possible.

I am going to try and posts some pictures soon!

Hopefully it will come to life in a few days!

Take Care!

Chris,

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 4:36 pm

A three cylinder 380 with a welded crank - did you do some massive porting, or are you just trying to make it go 100,000 miles without a rebuild?

Throw up some pics when you get it going!

Arne

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 5:08 pm

Jim,
Its sorted mate, they have sent me the wrong part. Its 70mm in length from shank to end, should be about 40mm.

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 6:43 pm

<img src="http://star
<img src="http://star

This is the 380 when I started!

Post by **Admin** » Tue May 13, 2008 6:45 pm

Dave,

Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. The length is 44mm from the end of the plastic knob to the end of the metal shaft. You definitely had the wrong one if it was 70mm.....

Jim

Archived Posts

hey guys

Welded Rod Pins

I hope this works!