Archived Posts

[Admin]

Dave,

IIRC, it's 2-3 inches long. There's a separate stop washer that goes on the shaft after you put it through the side cover. If you need an exact measure I'll dig one out of the parts box and check it.

knob is p/n 47230-01002
retainer is p/n 09152-06001

Jim

[Admin]

Mike,

Most of the auto parts store still carry gasket paper in varying thicknesses. Buy a roll that is close to the size you need (maybe a little thicker) and make your own gasket. A fresh x-acto or single edge razor blade, a cutting mat (from a craft store), and some brass tubing in the correct diameter to punch your bolt holes (from a hobby shop) is all you need.

Coat your new gasket with some indian head or permatex gasket shellac from the auto parts store OR some of the hondabond case sealer you used to put your cases back together. Check the base of the oil pump first with a steel straight edge ruler to make sure it's not warped. Plus make sure you are not tightening it too much and warping it that way....

Jim

[Admin]

Good idea Jim. The oil pump gasket would probably be the easiest one to make.

[Admin]

Hey Jim youre really giving away your age there, i didnt know that Indian head was still made, far less available to buy.

[Admin]

Hey Jim youre really giving away your age there, i didnt know that Indian head was still made, far less available to buy.

Hey Allan,

I still have the bottle of Indian head that my father owned. I guess one bottle will do you... for several generations! I expect to pass it along to my son one day!

BTW - http://www.acehardware.com/sm-indian-he ... 19010.html

Jim

[Admin]

Thats interesting for a gasket coating , the Ace hardware site says it sets hard where most of the popular engine sealents dry soft and flexable .. no ?

[Admin]

Thats interesting for a gasket coating , the Ace hardware site says it sets hard where most of the popular engine sealents dry soft and flexable .. no ?

Yup, you will always remember the name should you ever have to remove a gasket secured with the stuff, believe me!

[Admin]

Indian Head is still available at Auto Zone. I use more modern stuff, though. I like Versachem OEM gray, and black. The black is great for expansion chambers at the flanges, and the gray works great on gaskets. Actually, either would work for either purpose.


Lane

[Admin]

My oil pump is really leaking from its base, although it has a new gasket wich has been torqued down with hexes.

Mike, I'd be careful here. If the pump is leaking, there's a reason. Sealing the gasket is only going to force the injector oil to flow into the gearbox.....and you don't want that to happen.
Probably the source of the leak is that the shaft seal that sits around the input drive shaft of the pump is shot. These seals are NOT available as separate parts from Suzuki because you are not supposed to repair the pump but rather replace the whole pump.......BUT you should be able to find a suitable replacement from CR (Chicago Rawhide) who make a series of metric dimensioned grease seals, which is all those single lipped seals are. Pull the old seal out and head for your nearest industrial bearing supply house. Most of them handle CR seals.

[Admin]

Great stuff. Who knew those little suckers were part submarine ???
Must have a pretty well sealed igntion system too.....

[Admin]

Gary, has the engine been apart recently ??? Or have you driven the bike for quite awhile and then this geyser suddenly appeared ???
What oil are you running in the tranny ??? Same as always ??? Something new ??? Are you sure it's tranny lube and not injector oil ???

[Admin]

Well, I was all set to report back to everyone that I had the engine ready to go back in. Friday evening I double checked everything in the tranny and placed the crank in the lower case. I carefully placed the sealant on the top case and set it into place. Put all the cleaned and polished case bolts back in and torqued to specs. I was thinking man it won't be long before this thing lives again,

Well I decided to check to make sure everything rotated freely as the manual states, before proceeding, The output shaft and countershaft rotated free as a mother's love. The crankshaft was another matter.

Oh, it rotated very sweet for about 1/2 to 3/4 rotation then would not move.
After saying a few not so nice words. I took it back apart to discover the outside rod pin welds were hitting the case. I removed the crank cleaned up the welds and its ready to go back together.

The long and the short of it is! Always check your clearances before assembling. Otherwise you look like a dumb A$$ and you only have yourself to blame!

PS Hopefully I will have the engine completely assembled tomorrow evening after work.

What makes it worse is the chasis is just seating there waiting on the engine.

Oh well! Another lesson Learned.


Chris,

[Admin]

Your right H2rick, I didn't think of that. I took my oil-pump off tonight, and unfortunately the inside bolt-boss is cracked in half. This pump was an extra I was using because of a striped plunger guide thread on the original. (reverse thread, go figure) So I still have a functioning pump that needs some love. I don't think they make reverse-thread helicoils, but I could JB-weld the sucker in. In less its getting rebuilt I shouldn't have to take this bolt out. This pump does not leak from the base and was destined for the garbage heap, so its worth a try.

[Admin]

Jim,
Could you please measure its length for me.
Cheers
Dave

[Admin]

Good catch.


Lane