If it is 8/74 mfg., it's a 75. Like cars here in the US, model year started in the latter part of the previous year...for Suzuki, it's usually July or August. Can't remember which.
Nice looking bike.
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Hello Mike
I just fitted a sprocket and chain set on my T500m and the rear sprocket is a 33 tooth,I got it from http://www.wemoto.com/
Here in the uk.
Gary
I just fitted a sprocket and chain set on my T500m and the rear sprocket is a 33 tooth,I got it from http://www.wemoto.com/
Here in the uk.
Gary
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Nice looking bike!
There's alot of opinions on bringing bikes out of storage. Some people strip the whole engine down and rebuid, some people just run them. I think you've got all the basics covered for bringing a bike out of light storage -
The only things I would add:
Change 'adjust the carbs' to 'clean the carbs' (just pull them apart and clean all the orifices out with compressed air and/or carb cleaner).
Check the point gap and timing (I just use a timing light, some people use dial gages, but you should gap your points correctly with a feeler gage)
Check the charging system (throw a voltmeter on the battery terminals when its running and see if the voltage goes up when you rev it to 4,000 rpms.)
Add an in line fuel filter just above each carb, I didn't used to do this but ever since I started doing it I will ALWAYS add an in line fuel filter to any bike I have to clean the carbs on. 10 bucks is a cheap way to keep from having to pull those carbs apart again and again and again.
And if you're going to be riding alot of miles or any significant freeway time, I check the tire date and make sure their not more than ten years old. Here's a webpage that explains what to look for on the tires:
(I run old tires sometimes, but sometimes I get flats - which isn't that much fun.)
http://www.dansmc.com/tires1.htm
There's alot of opinions on bringing bikes out of storage. Some people strip the whole engine down and rebuid, some people just run them. I think you've got all the basics covered for bringing a bike out of light storage -
The only things I would add:
Change 'adjust the carbs' to 'clean the carbs' (just pull them apart and clean all the orifices out with compressed air and/or carb cleaner).
Check the point gap and timing (I just use a timing light, some people use dial gages, but you should gap your points correctly with a feeler gage)
Check the charging system (throw a voltmeter on the battery terminals when its running and see if the voltage goes up when you rev it to 4,000 rpms.)
Add an in line fuel filter just above each carb, I didn't used to do this but ever since I started doing it I will ALWAYS add an in line fuel filter to any bike I have to clean the carbs on. 10 bucks is a cheap way to keep from having to pull those carbs apart again and again and again.
And if you're going to be riding alot of miles or any significant freeway time, I check the tire date and make sure their not more than ten years old. Here's a webpage that explains what to look for on the tires:
(I run old tires sometimes, but sometimes I get flats - which isn't that much fun.)
http://www.dansmc.com/tires1.htm
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Admin
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Admin
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The bike looks better in the fuzzy pics I took than in person, but thanks for the compliments. I was happy to find it and felt the price was fair. The tires are Inoue - possibly original? The aluminum needs polishing, but all paint's original and chrome's pretty good (except where someone got ahold of a deremel wheel and a nasty-rough polishing bit).
My Elsinore VIN plate is also dated 8/73 and Honda first started selling them in '74, so Honda seemingly started their model-year in August - similar to Suzuki!
desmocat, thanks for the offer.
Arne, thanks for the run-down, much appreciated. I'm gonna first try adjusting the carbs without removing them tomorrow and see what happens. WML
GT Tim wrote: If it is 8/74 mfg., it's a 75. Like cars here in the US, model year started in the latter part of the previous year...for Suzuki, it's usually July or August.
My Elsinore VIN plate is also dated 8/73 and Honda first started selling them in '74, so Honda seemingly started their model-year in August - similar to Suzuki!
Does that link go to a manual that's identical to the one at this link? (as I'd prefer to get an original if possible.)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-197 ... 222870390&Suzukidave wrote:http://gt500.org.uk/manual.htm
desmocat, thanks for the offer.
Arne, thanks for the run-down, much appreciated. I'm gonna first try adjusting the carbs without removing them tomorrow and see what happens. WML
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GT500A
Can somebody asssit?
What is the length of the left hand side panel securing knob which secures the panel to the frame. Came to fit mine yesterday but appears far too long. Have they sent me the wrong part or am I missing something.
What is the length of the left hand side panel securing knob which secures the panel to the frame. Came to fit mine yesterday but appears far too long. Have they sent me the wrong part or am I missing something.
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Titan running, with questions
I finally got my Titan running last week. For those of you that remember, I was worried about clearances due to a knuckle-headed painter applying Por15 to my entire case halves, including the mating surfaces. Fortunately everything worked out. For anyone considering resealing their crank, do it. She runs so much smoother and smokes a lot less. I installed BS Spitfires, new PM shocks and it really made a difference in handling. I still have some turn signal gremlins, but my arm is working just fine for now. Questions:
My oil pump is really leaking from its base, although it has a new gasket wich has been torqued down with hexes. I would like to try liquid gasket, but I fear it would not stick to the oil saterated gasket on there. In addition I cant seem to find this gasket for sale (by its self) anywhere.
Also, she pulls great but is a kind of a dog below 4500 rpm. It could be that I have just gotten used to the torque of my CB750, but period rag articles tout the Titans low rpm grunt, which makes me wonder. I haven't had a chance to read the plugs yet, but if I had to guess Id say she is running rich down low, because she bogs if you give her more than 1/4 throttle before 4k. I know some progressive throtle opeaning is expected, but how much is normal? She is idles smoothly at 1200rpm, I might try raising it to 1500. Jets are stock and needle is at the leanest position. Let me know what you guys think.
will post pics this week.
Mike
My oil pump is really leaking from its base, although it has a new gasket wich has been torqued down with hexes. I would like to try liquid gasket, but I fear it would not stick to the oil saterated gasket on there. In addition I cant seem to find this gasket for sale (by its self) anywhere.
Also, she pulls great but is a kind of a dog below 4500 rpm. It could be that I have just gotten used to the torque of my CB750, but period rag articles tout the Titans low rpm grunt, which makes me wonder. I haven't had a chance to read the plugs yet, but if I had to guess Id say she is running rich down low, because she bogs if you give her more than 1/4 throttle before 4k. I know some progressive throtle opeaning is expected, but how much is normal? She is idles smoothly at 1200rpm, I might try raising it to 1500. Jets are stock and needle is at the leanest position. Let me know what you guys think.
will post pics this week.
Mike
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A clean scan of an original factory T500 service manual with the GT500 supplement is here:
http://www.3cyl.com/~diamondj/
The file is "SuzukiT500.pdf"
BE WARNED - It's a 40meg pdf file so if you are on dial-up it will take you most of the night to download (I suggest the local public library which is where I uploaded this file). Print this bad boy out, go buy a box of sheet protectors and a three ring binder from Staples or Wal-mart and you've got a sweet shop manual you can handle with greasy hands without messing up the pages.
Jim
http://www.3cyl.com/~diamondj/
The file is "SuzukiT500.pdf"
BE WARNED - It's a 40meg pdf file so if you are on dial-up it will take you most of the night to download (I suggest the local public library which is where I uploaded this file). Print this bad boy out, go buy a box of sheet protectors and a three ring binder from Staples or Wal-mart and you've got a sweet shop manual you can handle with greasy hands without messing up the pages.
Jim
