Archived Posts

[Admin]

Thanks for the ideas. I have just been told that I can get (locally) a blank, 530x 34 tooth sprocket. This apparently needs to be drilled to have it fitted. Any thoughts on this option?
Mike

[Admin]

Wow, for $100 you cant go wrong! Get that thing running and come on over. There are a few of us on here in the Michigan crew who are crazy enough to keep messin with these old things. Bike weekend in Muskegon...?
You have found a great site, Great people with the knowledge who are here to help!
-John

[Admin]

Thanks for the ideas. I have just been told that I can get (locally) a blank, 530x 34 tooth sprocket. This apparently needs to be drilled to have it fitted. Any thoughts on this option?
Mike

AS long as the cost is within reason i cannot see any problem drilling a blank if its done very acurately .

[Admin]

Welcome, Cindy and way to go on the Titan purchase. That is without doubt the bargoon of the year at that price. Allan will definitely be able to help you out with yours since there's no doubt that he's learned wayyyyyy more than anyone would ever want to know about the 69's.

[Admin]

Definitely consider buying a blank and having it machined and then plated afterwards, Mike. That is exactly what I'd do in your situation. If you buy a blank from a reputable source (brand name goods) then you'll end up with a well made item that will last as long as the stock stuff ever did and probably longer. It's a little more work to do the whole thing and may be a little more costly over all but more durable over the long run, IMO.

[Admin]

I went for a spin today on my B100P, had it up to an incredible 60mph (no jokes please). Had it wound out for a while, when I got home, all I could smell was burnt rubber. The muffler to exhaust header pipe joint rubber had melted into a glob of molten rubber. It was actually dripping of the bottom of the muffler. I had bought some NOS originals, but I guess after 40 years the rubber doesn't stand up that well anymore. Here's what an original looks like:


I don't know if any of the bigger bikes use anything similar, but does any one know of any rubber like material that can stand up to a bit of heat and seal the connection between exhaust pipe and header. Thanks

[Admin]

Hmmm....

That's alot of rubber....

Alot of people use RTV Orange (available at any Napa or Checker, whatever) to seal up exhausts, but I don't think you can put it on that thick....

If you're looking for a permanent 'fix' you could build up graphite exhaust gaskets that come in sheets for making custom header gaskets (go to a race shop or a custom car shop they'll have it, ebay will have some of it under Mr. Gasket)

There's other places that have it too...

You could build up layers of gasket material with RTV orange to that shape and find a way to seal it in there, but it's kindof a messy fix.

I'd try to find a new one or a replacement one.

(I'd also check my spark plug to make sure you weren't melting anything else : )

Good luck!

Oh - RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing (as in rubber gets hard at room temp)

[Admin]

Hi, folks -

I hate paying highway robbery prices, but today I found a headlight at PM. But - I have a shell that I got from Wayne with this bike where apparently someone was working on an idea for making a "refillable" unit instead of a sealed beam.

In a discussion with a friend of mine who is a mechanical genius, he wants to try to finish this idea to see if it will work, now that I have a headlight that actually works. So -

If you have some old headlight sealed beam shells with NG reflectors, NG bulbs, etc. and have good glass on them, I would like to buy one or more. Please PM me if you have one you'd like to part with. I will, of course, provide pictures a/o diagrams of what was done - <i>especially if it works.</i>

[Admin]

I'm in the process of going through what Geez went through to get some JT sprockets. You have to have your dealer order them through Western Power Sports. I'm about 5 days into a 3 week wait.

I got a great deal on a JT sprocket for my GT250 from atvunlimited and had it in 3 days.

[Admin]

I'd pay $400 for a nice one and I'm cheap.

Here's a real nice one that was posted on the US 2-strokers forum.



How could anyone NOT like that?

[Admin]

Don't really wanna sell it but I have another bike in mind and the garage is packed full...and the bank account is empty

[Admin]

I was Editor of the US VJMC mag for the last two years, and the NZ chapter always sends me their newsletter, so yeah that must have been your bike there...sweet!

[Admin]

I'm trying to sort out how I'm going to set up the wiring and electrics on the road racer I'm building. I could use a little help from some of the engineers out there. I've got a GT500 engine with the PEI magneto and I am wondering if I can simplify the set up a bit. Given that I don't need lights, can I eliminate the charging coils, regulator and rectifier??? Based on the diagram, it seems like those items all work in a circuit related to charging for lights and don't impact the ignition, but I'm not sure. I'd also like to run without a battery and use a battery eliminator, but I'm not sure how that would work assuming the changes I mentioned above are possible. I copied a link to the wiring diagram for reference.
http://home1.stofanet.dk/optik/suzuki/gt500eldiagb.htm

[Admin]

As far as I can tell,

With the PEI system, the lighting circuits and ignition have nothing much in common. You should be able to remove the rectifier, regulator, lights, light switches, all of the wiring loom etc.

You could build a new wiring loom and sell the old one or stip out the parts you need and dump/store the rest.

You don't need a battery or battery eliminator because there will be nothing to charge either one.

You could also remove the two lighting charge coils from the stator if you want to save a few more grams, but I probably wouldn't bother.

What you will be left with is a simple magneto/CDI system like a Banshee or an RM250. You will have low speed and high speed charge coils on teh stator plate, pulser coil outside the flywheel, a CDI, coil and kill switch.

All of the above assumes that your PEI is in good working order

[Admin]

I do have replacements, bought 4 on Ebay, just surprised it only lasted 140 miles. I also have an after market one, also NOS which I'll try. I checked my plug, nice light brown color, which I assume would be correct and not running to hot.