Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:35 am

Yep - the EPA has made chrome plating almost a "lost art" and very costly given the nasty chemicals required and generated. I think the prices you were given are reasonable particularly if you're talking AU dollars.

Be careful though - in my experience there are two types of chrome shops. Bumper shops specialize in rechroming bumpers. They are okay for large sections of relatively flat chrome. They don't do so well on more complex surfaces and smaller parts though as they require more prep and more finish polishing.

On the other hand, traditional triple plate shops do a good job on small detailed parts but they tend to charge more.

Ask to see samples of similar work or for customer references. They should be happy to provide both if they do good work.

Jim

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 8:29 pm

Thanks guys, this bloke is only an hours drive away too so don't have to pay a fortune for shipping!

He reckons he's done cycle parts before but ive asked for some pics, wait and see what they look like I guess.

Cheers,
Ash

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 4:22 am

Ash,
I've found that the prices vary widely here in NZ. The best chromer in my town won't touch any of my "Jap stuff" - he says it's all crap. One place I took my headlight ears (T500R) to charged me $100 to chrome them both and another $100 to do 4 indicators. A new guy I've found is doing my header pipes for $50. I'm going to do my chain guard soon, so it'll be intersting to compare to your price.
Mike

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:01 pm

Jim, finally reread your post and tada got what you suggested, silly cone the dust covers from another bike to the lowers gooves after triming the dust covers!! Man wonder why that didnt sink in till I read it a few times!! thanks. Dofin

Post by **Admin** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 1:42 am

Ash

What you have been quoted are very reasonable prices.. Better Than I can get down south. I suppose it also depends on the quality of the end product, but for good chrome work their good prices

Post by **Admin** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:58 am

I did some testing and it appears that the rectifier is the problem. The main fuse started blowing which also could be cause by a bad rectifier. I'll find out for sure this weekend when the part comes in. Do you guys know what it's supposed to look like? All the rectifiers I have seen are covered with cooling fins but mine was just a black plastic box. It had Mitsubishi Electric printed on it. Is this a factory part? Thanks.

Post by **Admin** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:11 pm

An interesting quirk of the GT500A regulator is that it doesn't work at all unless you have a battery installed. The voltage will shoot up to 60+ volts even if you try to use a capacitor (battery eliminator). Ask me how I know.....

Let's say this; don't turn on the lights until you're sure the regulator is functioning.

The 500's rectifier looks a bit different than the older, finned ones. But, since there are only three "black boxes", it's easy to figure out which is which. The CDI unit is mounted behind the battery box (has the most wires). The regulator is forward and above the battery box (two wires). The rectifer is very close to the regulator. The regulator and CDI box look very much alike.

Lane

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 5:30 am

The rectifier was my problem. I now have about 13.8 volts and no fuse blowing. The new rectifier is the same size but its all aluminum with cooling fins and the electrics are epoxied in. I now have discovered another problem because when I turn the lights on the voltage goes back to 12.6. Does the light switch also turn on the extra charging coil? At least now I can finally take it on a decent ride and I'll have something to keep me busy this weekend.

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jun 15, 2007 5:46 am

The light "on" switch should connect the second lighting coil, but mine was broken inside the left handlebar pod. It is possible to wire the bike so that both charging coils run all the time, but repairing my switch did the trick for me.

Lane

Post by **Admin** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 6:48 pm

Howdy all, I'm back! Not that anyone missed me, but here I am.

I just pulled the 380 out of the storage shed earlier this week. It still hasn't actually run yet. Although I hope to have that remedied soon.

I'm in the process of trying to get the title. I understand what you went through Coyote. It helps to know people in high places in my neck of the woods.

Hopefully I should have the title within the next 2 weeks. Which should give me plenty of time to get it going.

I'll tell you what though, I would love to have at least a 550 just for the fact that it comes with a starter. I racked my shin the night before last tryin to it to run. Grrrrrr. Perhaps I wouldn't have broke a sweat if I had an electric starter. Then again, you never know.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 3:53 pm

Hey all

What prep would you advise for a sandblasted surface prior to priming?

Just a blow down with air?

Wipe?

Cheers
Ash

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:15 pm

You really should treat the bare metal with metal conditioner. It will turn the metal to a dark grey and etch it slightly so that it will hold the primer much better. It also helps prevent the metal from rusting as it leaves a phosphate coating on it.

Metal conditioner can be purchased identified as concrete etch at home repair supply store like Home Depot, Lowes, etc, or at any auto paint store. It is not expensive and you dilute it about 8 to one with water.

I use a spray bottle to spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it down and blow with compressed air at the same time. Then let dry completely before priming. Do not let it pool up in the corners/crevices, blow it out and then let it dry. You can even lightly scuff it with scotch brite after it dries to get it really smooth, just don't get carried away and scuff all the way through the etching.

Wayne

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:48 pm

Ahh my old favorite phosphoric acid

Thanks mate, will give it a go.

Post by **Admin** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:16 am

I got back to working on my bike last weekend and both of the charging coils tested OK. It looks like my problem could also be the switch. I did a quick visual check of the switch innards but I didnt test the connections, so thats my next job.

Post by **Admin** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 4:30 pm

I took the switch apart and found a physically-broken part.

Lane

Archived Posts

Painting a sandblasted surface