Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:32 pm

What a mess. When the winter comes here, I will finally have the time to do the one I want to do, MSD magnetic pickup, two prong reluctor, one 4 pin HEI module and a dual lead Dyna coil. this will fire both cylinders twice per revolution, much the same as the later TR750 did, which ran three sparks, per cylinder, per revolution.

I actually do this small body HEI conversion for points distributors, for a living, as a manufacturer, for cars. I am still prototyping one for an RD400 F Daytona now, should have it running by the first of August.

BTW, if you have an Auto-Zone store near you, that IS the right place to buy the modules, either the 7 prong one he says to use, which I never use, or the 8 pin EFI HEI I do for locked out EFI conversions, or the 4 pin ones. The ones to get at A-Z are the Wells modules, they are guaranteed for life, just don't tell them it is for a motorcycle, and keep the reciept.

The 4 pin modules are used in GM vehicles from 1975 thru 1986.
The 8 pin modules are used in stuff like my 1986 GMC Safari van, V6.
& pin is used in there someplace, but not clear, as I said, I won't use the 7 pinners.
The modules don't know or care how many cylinders are there. A dual lead/coil system would ge good from idle to about 15,000 rpms, the single lead/coil dual system about the same.

Also, building a dual module HEI wouldn't be too hard, either, just revise the reluctor, add another pickup/module/coil setup for the other cylinder, and a pair of single 1.50 ohm primary resistsance coils, Dyna has them, and the dual lead ones too. The T500 has enough charging and battery to run either one or two module systems, the GT750 should handle a triple fire or batched system, no problems.

Post by **Admin** » Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:37 pm

Dave is this you ? http://davessmallbodyheis.com/

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 4:18 am

Suzukidave wrote:Dave is this you ? http://davessmallbodyheis.com/

It sure is............

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 3:00 pm

Moo wrote:
Suzukidave wrote:Dave is this you ? http://davessmallbodyheis.com/
It sure is............

Wow Dave , with that sort of business i would think you could put together one heck of a electronic ignition system for motorcycles ?? .. Dave

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 12:40 am

to show how it works, I vend the car systems at the Long Beach Hi-perf swap meet, at the Veteran's stadium. One was today.

I left here at 03;30 AM Saturdeay, got to L.A. Went to Fry's City of Industry, for computer stuff, then to my sister's in Westminster, fixed her computer and gave her a nicer fan for cooler air, then to the swap meet grounds, got there at 7:00 PM, slept in my van, up at 04:00AM today, set up, did the swap meet, tore down aand loaded up, started from there at 1:30, was home at 9:55, just a short time ago.

Total miles driven, 1,289. The back way, through Hawthorne, is usually wide open and you can plant the throttle and get down to it. My Safari van is pretty neat, factory EFI 4.3 V6, and factory 5 speed stick trans, its been laid on in the computer department. I put an Auburn posi in it this Wednesday. I found out today it will go 108 mph. This winter, it gets a stock roller cam TPI 305 V8, retaining the 5 speed, and rear disk brakes.

I ran into a good pal of mine at the swap meet today, and I may have an X6 from him, he needs a dist conversion or two for his Ford trucks. He's Jamie Hacking's tuner, Jrefferson Burkes.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:28 am

allright, im convinced. rear wheel and complete rearset are on the way. got the painting done last week and have been polishing up the crappy job i did on the clearcoat. i never seem to get that right. i think im spraying at too high pressure. i either get runs or orange peel.
the one thing i outsourced was the seatcover. that should be done this week.
ive been tossing the idea around of painting the motor to match the frame. for the frame i used a single stage paint(no need to clearcoat) and wonder how this would hold up to the heat. anyone been there done that?
more pics posted soon.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:30 am

allright, im convinced. rear wheel and complete rearset are on the way. got the painting done last week and have been polishing up the crappy job i did on the clearcoat. i never seem to get that right. i think im spraying at too high pressure. i either get runs or orange peel.
the one thing i outsourced was the seatcover. that should be done this week.
ive been tossing the idea around of painting the motor to match the frame, kinda like ogri's mighty buffalo. for the frame i used a single stage paint(no need to clearcoat) and wonder how this would hold up to the heat. anyone been there done that?
more pics posted soon.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:02 am

bighole wrote: ive been tossing the idea around of painting the motor to match the frame, kinda like ogri's mighty buffalo. for the frame i used a single stage paint(no need to clearcoat) and wonder how this would hold up to the heat. anyone been there done that?
more pics posted soon.

The durability of the paint will be determined by the type that you applied. In general, the singlestage should work out just fine. Better yet if it is an activated singlestage like Centari or ChromaPremier. The best would be a polyurethane such as Imron, Imron 5000. These products will hold up to the solvent damage as well as nearly 500 degrees.
If what you used was not a two part product (color and activator) then it will be vulnerable to damage from fuel.

I painted my engine with the high temp products you find in the store in spray cans. Long term, it will not be very durable. What I should have done, was paint it with some of the Imron 5000 I have laying around the garage, but it has more gloss than I wanted for my engine.
I have already spilled some fuel on it and ruined a portion of the finish. I will have to mask it up and do some touch-up.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:40 pm

Thanks. What I used was Dupont Ful-Thane 2K Urethane. Still had to mix with reducer and catalyst. I know that Imron paint is like super space shuttle paint and pretty pricey too but at least for a bike you shouldnt need that much.
So 500 degrees means I should be able to paint the pipes too huh? Thought the grey might look a little better than the usual flat black.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 2:12 pm

bighole wrote:Thanks. What I used was Dupont Ful-Thane 2K Urethane. Still had to mix with reducer and catalyst. I know that Imron paint is like super space shuttle paint and pretty pricey too but at least for a bike you shouldnt need that much.
So 500 degrees means I should be able to paint the pipes too huh? Thought the grey might look a little better than the usual flat black.

Ful-Thane is good stuff. You will be happy with it's performance. It will not have the heat resistance of the Imron, but I think it will work great for the engine and the frame. I would hesitate to put it on the pipes. I don't know that it will stand for that much heat.

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:18 pm

finally got it all painted and the seat back from the upholterer. Its starting to look like a bike again. Thanks to Lane for the inspiration. Working now on front and rear brake setup. I ended up with a gsxr rear brake set. I cut down the ear on the gt brake pedal and moved it so it should link up with the gsxr master cylander after i make a new mounting bracket.

however...
upon mounting the gs rear wheel I discovered that the front and rear chain sprockets dont line up. Im using the stock gt swing arm. Do I need to hunt down another or did I just put the spacers in wrong?

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:17 pm

Is that an axle spacer outside the right side of the swinger? I used the stock swinger, but all the GS spacers have to go in, and they don't fit, do they? I had to spread the swinger about 3/4" if I remember correctly. It easier to use the GS swinger even though it's a bit longer. My sprockets lined up. I believe the GS had a longer spacer in the sprocket carrier. That would account for the offset. I used the GS carrier, with the GT spacer.

Lane

Post by **Admin** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:52 pm

ok, so if I understand this, would I need two modules for the T500 and just wire them for each point set like he shows?
crisper spark and cleaner idle quality? or am I missing something here?
Thanks for the info guys.

Post by **Admin** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:12 am

In essence, yes.

In the real world, a better, cleaner setup can be done with one 4 pin HEI module and dual lead coil, one magnetic pickup and a two blade armature.

With the modules recommended in the article, you are running the ignition on the "run home" circuits, NOT the EFI spark feedback system. These run home circuits aren't really designed for constant running, it is just a limp mode when the feedback aprt of the module goes kaput.

The early 4 prong modules are rated for constant useage, and will run upwards of 8,500 rpms with a 8 cylinder engine, so.....

Post by **Admin** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 4:22 pm

H2RTuner wrote:In essence, yes.

In the real world, a better, cleaner setup can be done with one 4 pin HEI module and dual lead coil, one magnetic pickup and a two blade armature.

H2RTuner , would it be possible for you to draw up a picture of a install like you refere to and i will delete the first one i posted , yours sounds better .. Dave