Inexperienced newbie needs help

[sportston]

Our Aussie version of Easystart spray is called "StartYaBastard" (yes really, and it really works).

Brilliant. Not heard of that particular brand. I like it. Why hasn't it become popular over here in the UK?

[pgb123]

I don't have a 550 but the only multi pin connector like that is to the gear change indicator/switch. Yours should have a rotary switch on the end of the gear shift drum behind teh sprocket cover. Form there there is a connecting harness that connects at the front to the gear indicator.

I think you might be right! The PO switched out the speedometer console for an older type that doesn’t have gear indicators, so that connector isn’t necessary.

[pgb123]

Drain the carb floatbowls by cracking open the overflow screws or the drain plugs (see workshop manual or youtube -no need to completely remove the screws), and also empty your tank.
Put a few litres of nice fresh petrol in the tank and then check that fuel is getting though to the carbs by putting it on reserve and cracking open the carb overflow screws.
Fuel should come out of those, but because of the vacuum system you'll probably need to crank the engine over to 'open' the vacuum so that fuel flows to the carbs. If you do this with the sparkplugs out it won't flatten your battery. (Some carbs have a 'Prime' tap position which allows the fuel to flow, but I don't think these ones do).

Thanks again for all of the help! I have a dumb question - how do I drain the carbs without getting fuel all over the engine and floor? I'll have to try it next time. Presently, the carbs have been drained and there's fuel all over the engine and the garage floor!

Dumb question no. 47 - Can I just spray Engine Brite or something similar on the bike and hose it off? Do I have to worry about getting water, etc into any of the parts?

Also, I tried to replace the spark plugs, but the replacement plugs don't fit into the plug caps. The old plugs have a screw on the cap end. The new ones have a larger fitting. I ordered NGK BR8ES plugs. The manual recommends NGK BR7ES, but indicates you can use BR8ES plugs (bought them by mistake and have BR7ES plugs on the way).

I pulled the petcock and now for dumb question number 49 - Can I wash it off in a bowl of soapy water? Spray Engine Brite on it? Or something? Since my bike is far from home and I don't get to spend much time with it, I had to bring the petcock home while I wait for the replacement gaskets and though it's wrapped up in several ziplock bags, it stinks of gasoline. Probably not a good thing to have in my home around my young kids!

Btw, while there's a filter on the main petcock valve, there was no filter on the reserve valve.

Lastly, for the moment, having had a chance to get up close and personal with the carbs, I noticed that carb no. 1 is missing its boot cap and is covered with this very sticky gunky tar like substance. Could this possibly just be grease? I searched the web for picture and looked over parts diagrams, but can't figure out what's there under the boot cap. Picture attached. And thanks a million!

Put fuel tap to "pri" setting whenever you are trying to start after a lay-up. Once running sweetly, return fuel tap to "on" position. When finished playing do not leave in "pri" position unless you wish to have a puddle of fuel on your garage floor when you come down the next morning.
A can of Bradex Easystart sprayed into the air intake while cranking may help you start the bike. It is miraculous stuff! Once started, if it will only run on Easystart then you will have to strip the carbs and clean and rebuild them properly.

Thanks for the tips! I don't think Easystart is sold in the US, but I'll search around for something comparable and give it a try.

[sportston]

Ok that is a fair few questions. I'll start with answering the easy ones.
1. The spark plugs, BR8ES or BR7ES, will fit your caps, but you have to unscrew the little bit on top of the plug first. A pair of pliers will suffice to get this started, then you can unscrew by your fingers.

2. The black sticky tar like substance on the top of your carbs is the remains of a rubber bellows type boot. For some reason they all go like this with age (probably poor quality rubber that reacts badly with heat and petrol over time). It peels off quite easily when done immediately after removal from an ultrasonic bath, in my experience. The engine will run without the rubber bellows, but it will allow water to get into your carb slide, which is not a good thing. So you should think about replacing this rubber. You can buy a whole set on ebay, but if I remember correctly they are not very cheap.

3. There is an alternative to Easy Start called "Cold Start". It is a Diethyl Ether based aerosol spray and works by being more combustible than petrol. DON'T use "Wet Start" or "Damp Start", this is not the same thing and is for forming a moisture barrier around electrical leads, not for squirting into your intake. You can buy from ebay sent from the UK to USA. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holts-Bradex-E ... SwNglZwjUB" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

4. On the petcock there is often no filter on the reserve, but I do not recommend leaving it this way. The same filter on the top of the main tube will fit the reserve too. So get a spare one of those and you are in business! This will stop rust flakes from clogging your petcock reserve. I have seen this happen so badly that it was impossible to get a drip of fuel from the reserve side in the past.

5. While we are on the subject of dirty fuel...it is highly recommend that you fit an inline fuel filter between your petcock and your carbs. This will cost you peanuts, but can save you lots of monkey business later.

6. Draining carbs without getting fuel all over.... not always very easily. I usually use a wadded rag to soak up the fuel as it drains or put up with giving the bike a jetwash later.

7. Soapy water is fine, just don't get it inside the carbs or engine! (plugs must be IN, carb intakes covered, exhausts fitted and all other holes where water could get into the engine or gearbox covered, before you start jetwashing or hand washing the engine). For really stubborn dirt and oily residues, use Muck-Off or Gunk or similar and allow to soak before washing. I don't know Engine Brite, but I guess it is ok, so long as it doesn't react badly with paint if you get over-spray.

So I think that is about every issue addressed for now. I still qualify my advice with; it is probably likely necessary and advisable to remove, strip and clean the carbs out thoroughly.
But you might get lucky and find the engine runs ok after all the other work. Just don't be too disappointed if you find you have limited success and have to undertake the laborious task of rebuilding ancient carbs. I have just undertaken that task myself on a set of identical carbs to yours. Actually it was about three sets that I managed to butcher to make one good set! All I am waiting for is a set of new needles for mine that will match the gt550 carbs with the gt380 engine to allow me to put the lids on the newly reconned carbs. Incidentally, carb recon kits I got from Crusin Image are fairly priced and of adequate quality.

[pgb123]

Awesome!! Thanks you so much for your time. This is fun and I haven’t even gotten started (pun intended)!!

[sportston]

Awesome!! Thanks you so much for your time. This is fun and I haven’t even gotten started (pun intended)!!

You're welcome. Glad you are enjoying it. It can be fun, there are times it is frustrating too. But the best fun is reaping the rewards of your hard work on a really great ride. You've got a nice bike to do it on and one that is simple enough to cut your mechanic teeth on. I am sure you will love it.
There is just one more very important thing, that I forgot to mention;
You must give your new bike a name! They run much better with a name and it also easier for you to form a relationship with the bike.

[pgb123]

I've been waiting for parts this whole time. When I pulled the petcock, the main brass fuel line was all corroded. I bought a used petcock that came minus the fuel bowl and vacuum seal and switched out the parts. Installed it this morning. I drained the carbs, replaced the sparkplugs and turned the motor over to make sure the carbs filled up again, which they did. Still can't get the bike to start, but while trying realized the petcock continued to leak. Once I got back home and looked over the parts diagram again, I see that a gasket is missing! Now I've got to wait for parts again.

In the meantime, I have a question - when I push down on the kickstarter, I can hear a good solid, low chuff, chuff sound of the pistons. When I press the electric start button, however, all I hear is a loud, higher pitched clack, clack, which I assume is the starter motor. Is the electric starter supposed to immediately engage with the engine? Should I be concerned that it's not giving me that chuff, chuff sound?

[joolstacho]

YES -you want 'chuff-chuff' not 'clack clack!' out of the thumb-button.
Sounds like the battery doesn't have enough 'oomph' to fire it up on the starter button, due to an old tired battery. (Other problem could be a bad connection in the starter circuit, but you'd virtually guarantee that it's a stuffed ol' battery.)
DO THIS!... just get a good new battery, JUST DO IT! -(people waste SO MUCH TIME AND EFFORT trying to get by with a shitty old stuffed battery) ... Just get a nice fresh new battery, you're going to need a decent FRESH battery anyway when you get to use the bike, so why not give yourself the best chance of starting NOW by using a fresh battery?) Clean the terminals and connections thoroughly.
(Why do people imagine they can drag a a sad old bike out of the grave using a tired old stuffed battery)?
We KNOW that once a battery is tired it's the end... don't flog a dead horse!!! Just get a new one.

First test:
Buy a new battery.
Take all the sparkplugs out and fit the battery
Turn on ignition and Hit the starter button.
Does it spin the motor over nice and fast? (no clacking) -Yes? Good, now we're cookin' wiv' gas!
Now try it with the plugs back in. No clacking?
Let us know.

[pgb123]

Many thanks. The battery is brand new. Will try again tomorrow with the plugs pulled and report back.

[karl pa]

In the meantime, I have a question - when I push down on the kickstarter, I can hear a good solid, low chuff, chuff sound of the pistons. When I press the electric start button, however, all I hear is a loud, higher pitched clack, clack, which I assume is the starter motor. Is the electric starter supposed to immediately engage with the engine? Should I be concerned that it's not giving me that chuff, chuff sound?

The GT550 has a starter clutch that is found behind the main clutch, they have been known to come loose or break. if yours is making clack noises, i would suggest you pull your clutch and inspect it. If you have problems with starter clutch and get it started with the kickstarter, it can come apart and cause bigger problems. My 550 has the starter clutch removed so it is only kickstart.

[pgb123]

So, I got out to the bike today. The bad news - this is what the electric starter sounds like: https://youtu.be/ibpFuTW7jM0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (The first sound is how it's been sounding which in real life is more of a clack, clacking sound. The last couple of whirring sounds is what it sound like now. Can't be a good sign).

Just for point of reference, this is what it sounds like on the kickstarter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-icTP-jy6g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; In real life, it's a much lower, vacuum, thumping sound.

The good news is that after changing the sparkplugs, emptying the gas tank, emptying out the autolube and the crankcase and refilling both, the bike actually turned over from the kickstarter after I created these audio files!

I only got it to make what sounded like a few revolutions before it conked out, but I was able to get it to turn over four or five times (my throat felt like I smoked a carton of cigarettes afterwards). I only have a a pint or so of gas in the tank, so I wasn't pushing it. I don't want to refill the tank until I get the petcock sorted out, so I'll try in earnest next weekend.

One question I have is that after pushing down on the kickstarter a few times, it would jam up. If I didn't kick it, but just kept my weight on it, I cold hear a slow suction sound and it would ease down until I could hear the engine turn over and then the kickstarter would allow me to kick it over a few times. Then it would lock up again, I'd have to put my weight on it. Same suction sound. Its slowly eased down and then allowed me to kick again. Does this mean one of the pistons is jammed up or getting stuck or what?

I've come to the conclusion that I'l probably have to pull and clean the carbs in any event, but I'd love to get the bike started before taking it apart. Any harm in me keeping at it once I get the petcock sorted out?

Also, regarding the starter, I'll follow these directions and my manual, once I get to that point: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13183&hilit=starter+550#p167221" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[joolstacho]

It could be the problem is that you don't have the tank with a good amount of petrol in it.
Could be that the problem is just that. Put a few more litres in the tank for a start. Don't worry too much about the petcock, as long as fuel is getting through to the carbs.
It won't explode! (but have a bucket of water handy anyway).
Have you checked for sparks at the plugs?
Don't worry about the electric starter yet. Use the kickstarter.
Your youtube files don't work for me.
Your kickstarting sounds fairly normal to me in that it will turn over easily until it comes up on to compression, at which point it will feel harder, but will then turn over top dead centre with your weight on it.
(Must say though that this is more like a high compression motor than a 3 cyl 550).
Keep at it, don't pull the carbs apart YET. Try Easystart (or similar) squirted into the air cleaner as long as you have checked that you have sparks.
New plugs + spark at the plugs + easystart = it's got to go! at least for a few seconds.
(Keep at it... it's character-building so I'm told!)
-J

[karl pa]

One question I have is that after pushing down on the kickstarter a few times, it would jam up. If I didn't kick it, but just kept my weight on it, I cold hear a slow suction sound and it would ease down until I could hear the engine turn over and then the kickstarter would allow me to kick it over a few times. Then it would lock up again, I'd have to put my weight on it. Same suction sound. Its slowly eased down and then allowed me to kick again. Does this mean one of the pistons is jammed up or getting stuck or what?

STOP It sounds like you have to much fuel in the crankcase, causing hydrolock. If one of the other cylinders fire, you will distroy your lower end. At the front of the engine, at the bottom are the sris lines, unsrew them from the crankcase to drain, another way is to pull spark plugs and put a rag over head and kick over. If your petcock is not stopping the flow, is a main reason for filling crankcase.

[pgb123]

Glad I asked!! Thanks so much for the warning. Will pull the plugs and turn the engine over before resuming.

[pgb123]

Your youtube files don't work for me.

The youtube files should work now. Please let me know if not. They're just 10 second audio files.