GT750 cylinder studs(Never Seize?)

[markj]

Just curious as to what you guys do with the cylinder studs when putting the top end back together. I'm going to be reassembling the engine shortly and studs are not in terrible shape but there is some minor pitting etc. Was thinking maybe a coat of Neverseize might be a good to put on so I could take the engine apart in the future. Any thoughts? Should I consider removing the studs and have them plated?

[Jimroid]

NeverSeize, anti seize is a good idea, BUT you must reduce torqueing. I think it's about 25%?

[rngdng]

I use ant-seize but not on the threads.



Lane

[markj]

I use ant-seize but not on the threads.



Lane

That sounds logical since that's where the corrosion takes place. If leave the threads alone I'll be able to use the stock torque specs I'd imagine?

Thanks guys.

[Vintageman]

Also important is the OEM rubber/metal washers under head bolts. I think that's why the later GT750s cyls usually come off better than the earlier years.

everSeize, anti seize is a good idea, BUT you must reduce torqueing. I think it's about 25%?

That's interesting. I was told by a senior mechanical engineer long ago to add a drop of oil( wipe off access only need molecular thick layer) to threads before torquing else you won't get it tight enough due to friction loss prevents true torque getting into bolt.

I don't use oil if thread lock is required, but think thread lock compounds are somewhat slippery as well until it sets up so same purpose. When I didn't due this the past this it seams things would always loosen up (especially low torque nuts and bolts): you can't always access everything for a second re-torquing, which is of course smart to do. So using a little lubricant on threads (oil, loctite, etc.) I don't have anymore issues , nor other problems- be it right or wrong works well for me. Maybe some published torque value are adjusted for dry fit?.... never checked. If I can access both nut and bolt (e.g. rod cap bolts) I'll measure before and after length to see how much stretch (usually bad bolts when it does stretch too much)... But otherwise you can't tell if over torqued.

So yes very interesting point to look into.

[rngdng]

I use ant-seize but not on the threads.



Lane

That sounds logical since that's where the corrosion takes place. If leave the threads alone I'll be able to use the stock torque specs I'd imagine?

Thanks guys.

I have never adjusted my torque specs. Maybe I should, but I never have.



Lane

[tz375]

The internet is full of interesting opinions and quite a few scientific looking reports that show the increase in rod stretch with a bolt lubed versus dry. Some seem to conclude that we should never ever use anti seize. Some report that using oil makes no difference and others show a difference, but the concensus seems to be to use oil to allow the torque setting to be correct.

I was taught that bolts should always be lubricated to set torque because that's how the specs had been established. That is with oil, not anti seize which has a much lower coefficient of friction.

What we do not know is whether Suzuki intended us to measure torque, wet or dry, but I will continue to use oil to lubricate threads and set to factory specs.

[yeadon_m]

TZ, ditto, because I always have and, AFAIK, its never been a problem doing it.
Cheers,
Mike

[Alan H]

Me three.
Correct torque = just a bit less than TAF for that particular bolt size.

[markj]

So it sounds like the consensus is to put neverseize on the shafts and oil on the threads and go just a hair lighter than the torque specs.