Suzuki T500L tuning problem

[greens888]

Hi, I had thought I had fixed the problem with the bike, but on last ride it just did it again. It runs with a misfire on the right cylinder. Cannot get it to go away. After a short time riding this misfire at idle turns worse and suddenly it won`t fire on right cyl. Returning and removing plug-sure enough its really wet. I have chased this problem for months. Bike has new top end and good compression, outer oil seals changed not middle. all new points, condensers, plugs, leads, original reg and rectifier fitted, new battery charges fine. I had been going down the wrong road looking for oil getting into combustion chamber fouling the plug. But now I am sure its electrical.
When running with the points cover off I can clearly see the points on left (for left cyl) do not show any spark at the point itself. This cyl runs fine. The right points for the offending right cyl are sparking continually during running. I thought I should have the spark visible on both points, but only the good one (left) shows no spark. I hate points. It just doesn`t make sense to me. Used timing light and it comes on just as the corresponding mark lines up with the mark on the viewing window, both cylinders. Point gap is .35. What am I doing wrong. Any ideas? Steve.

[Jimroid]

Something to ponder:Loooonnngg story short: This is not a Suzuki but may help someone at some time. I built a Yamaha dualsort with a Blaster 200 atv motor. Ran perfect for a year. One day I turned into a giant Kansas headwind and it started stumbling. Not jetting. It would run great down low and idle for days. I noticed tach reading dropping out at exactly 5800 rpm. I triple checked ignition pulser coil, ignition charge coil, high tension coil, grounds, all connections, swapped switches. EVERYTHING. I chased this for months. I decided to replace the working and properly ohmed high tension coil anyways. When I removed it read OPEN! What? I had a 30 year old coil off of who knows what, but it was the correct 1/2 ohm reading. Bike runs perfect again. That one kicked my butt and still makes no sense! Copied from my electrical post.

[tricky1962]

I know you've put new condensers on, but it sounds like a bad condenser to me.

I would suggest swapping the condensers over and seeing if the problem switches to the left hand cylinder

[Alan H]

Points shouldn't spark. Dud condenser usually if they do.

[ConnerVT]

I know you've put new condensers on, but it sounds like a bad condenser to me.

I would suggest swapping the condensers over and seeing if the problem switches to the left hand cylinder

Exactly what I would have said.

[yeadon_m]

One Suzuki bulletin on a problem that sounds like yours: the pivot pin the points move on is ever so slightly too large and, as it warms up, the points action gets stiffer and then sticks open. Cylinder stops. The fix is to dismantle the offending points and use fine emory to slightly slim the pivot.
Cheers,
Mike

[Jimroid]

I am using V8 Ford condensers, V8 Chevy fit too. In the States the Duralast brand is a very good quality Taiwanese made. About $5 each at your local auto store.

[tricky1962]

One Suzuki bulletin on a problem that sounds like yours: the pivot pin the points move on is ever so slightly too large and, as it warms up, the points action gets stiffer and then sticks open. Cylinder stops. The fix is to dismantle the offending points and use fine emory to slightly slim the pivot.
Cheers,
Mike

Hi Mike

Can you give us a link to the tech bulletin?

[yeadon_m]

http://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_G ... ins/page-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[tricky1962]

Cheers

[greens888]

Thanks all you were right, it was a faulty (new) condenser.