My GT380B owners manual says to use a 14mm wrench on the points cam nut.
But the GT380 timing service bulletin is dated January 1973.
Obviously inconsistent but the 1970s was very different than things are today.
Today, some lawyer would make them recall the owners manual.
74 GT380 no start. Need help.
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- jabcb
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE
Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE
- Alan H
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
Most people today haven't a clue - especially lawyers! 

Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
A light handed lawyer might just get away with it if in neutral and the plugs are out. I still wouldn't chance it!
Mike
Mike
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
Well do appreciate all the help. I will be changing out the clutch tomorrow and I'll go from there. I've been able to shift it through the gears but it takes a slight trick to it. When I shift up, I have to very slightly push down on the shifter to be able to shift up to the next gear. I'm guessing this is some kind of spring issue? Does the fix require a tear down, or should I just deal with it.
Thanks again guys.
And also might be time to clean out the sris lines and fittings. Bike has become the local mosquito fogger.
Thanks again guys.
And also might be time to clean out the sris lines and fittings. Bike has become the local mosquito fogger.
- Alan H
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
No. Worst case, the shifter may need to move one tooth near the detent springs. Refer manual as I haven't done a 380, although I think it's the same as the 550. What oil do you have in the gearbox and is it the correct level?Rickybigblock wrote:Well do appreciate all the help. I will be changing out the clutch tomorrow and I'll go from there. I've been able to shift it through the gears but it takes a slight trick to it. When I shift up, I have to very slightly push down on the shifter to be able to shift up to the next gear. I'm guessing this is some kind of spring issue? Does the fix require a tear down, or should I just deal with it. .
Ride it faster - or adjust the pump properly. You DO have a manual? What 2 stroke oil do you use? Good quality mineral or semi synth?And also might be time to clean out the sris lines and fittings. Bike has become the local mosquito fogger.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
Using semi synthetic for the injector oil. I would have to confirm what I used for the transmission but I believe it was whatever was in the manual. And thanks for the information about the shifter I'll try moving it, I had originally moved it when I got it because it was loose and I should've paid attention to where it was located in relation to the shaft, that being said I'll move or around and see what works. Also I've been getting a pretty nasty oil residue at the ends of the pipes Almost chocolate in color. I've been meaning to take the fiberglass off the baffles and replace just the baffle without the wrap, for I have no idea how many years of crude has soaked in. And as far as smoking, it's pretty intense on startup and warmup, but riding down the road it's not AS noticeable but still a thin blue fog as you expect. I'm I being too concerned with this? It is 40+ years old
- Alan H
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Re: 74 GT380 no start. Need help.
10w/40 mineral or similar is in the bookRickybigblock wrote:Using semi synthetic for the injector oil. I would have to confirm what I used for the transmission but I believe it was whatever was in the manual.
It's the opposite end of the shifter shaft to the lever that you press/lift with your foot. It can be fitted 1 spline out there and gearchange doesn't work well in one direction. My 550A is 'difficult' to get 1st sometimes, so I'll have to have a look at mine when I get round to it.And thanks for the information about the shifter I'll try moving it, I had originally moved it when I got it because it was loose and I should've paid attention to where it was located in relation to the shaft, that being said I'll move or around and see what works.
Yes you are too concerned. Take the baffles out and bin the wadding, it sounds better too. With semi synth oil, you can actually back the oil pump off a smidgin as it's so much better than the stuff that was used in the 70s.Also I've been getting a pretty nasty oil residue at the ends of the pipes Almost chocolate in color. I've been meaning to take the fiberglass off the baffles and replace just the baffle without the wrap, for I have no idea how many years of crude has soaked in. And as far as smoking, it's pretty intense on startup and warmup, but riding down the road it's not AS noticeable but still a thin blue fog as you expect. I'm I being too concerned with this? It is 40+ years old
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.