GTandcbr wrote:My opinion your battery is duff. Any battery charged over 14.7 volts will gas and boil look here for help. http://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
PS I run NGK B7es plugs
I put the B7ES in and will now set the carbs to where they idle best (set idle to 2k, put air screw in all the way then back out until best idle, take notes for each carb) and go from there and see how the plugs look after a ride or two. I also got the phone call that the new battery is in so I'm off to pick it up.
If you have a voltmeter you need to check that your voltage regulator is not malfunctioning if it charges at 15 volts you will very quickly cook your new battery! If it does charge too high it can be opened and adjusted https://youtu.be/zXLGsa6jRcY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; this will help
Last edited by GTandcbr on Thu May 12, 2016 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks everyone! I pulled the old battery and most all of the levels were WAY low. I'd post a photo but it says "Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached" unfortunately. At any rate, surprised it did much of anything. I went and got the new battery, filled it, and will throw it on the charger here shortly after the post-fill waiting period.
It sounds like I need to checkout the voltage regulator but wait a sec, I screwed up the testing! I've used this multimeter all of about twice and had it set on the "battery test" mode. Oops. OK, before I screw it up again, should I be testing AC or DC voltage? I kid...
DC on battery. That's Direct Current.
AC is alternating current - for mains or alternator testing.
F'r chrissake don't put it on ohms (Ω) or you'll fukkit bigtime!!
If you fill the old battery between the full and empty levels, with DISTILLED WATER not tap water, it'll probably work OK. You really need to get a handle on maintenance.
Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a copy of the maintenance manual FOC.
Your regulator is probably OK, just test with the old battery on the bike as before.
Red test lead to red battery terminal +, black test lead to black battery terminal -.
Check battery voltage with ignition off.
Ignition on and right twistgrip safety switch off.
Ignition on and right twistgrip safety switch on.
Engine running at tickover.
Engine at about 4000 revs.
Post the readings and I think you'll find that it's charging OK, and you've bought a new battery that you didn't really need.
If it's all OK, send the new battery back and tell them a story.
Or just fit it anyway, it'll certainly not hurt.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
Yeah, the old battery possibly could have been saved but it's been recycled and I feel better having a new one. The re-test will have to wait until the new battery is charged. Hopefully the regulator is fine but we shall see soon enough.
The strange thing is the intermittent weak battery. I wonder if there's a bad wire connection somewhere possibly? Well, I'll put in the new battery, re-run the test and if the regulator checks out will see what happens with the new battery installed. Because it is nice this time of year and it is getting ridden regularly, I'll leave it off the tender and see if the intermittent weak battery persists or not.
Will report back in a day or two with the new test readings.
The new battery finish charging and I had some time so here are the new measurements:
- Ignition Off : 12.86
- Ignition On / Kill Switch Off : 12.64
- Ignition On / Kill Switch On: 11.98
- Idle: ~13.1
- 4000 RPM: ~15.3
I give approximate values for idle and 4k because the meter is jumping around a lot - not sure if that's expected but I suspect ever seeing anything over 14.5 is bad news...
It's looking like the regulator is out of whack so I'm thinking instead of messing with it I'll go ahead and update to a modern Electrosport regulator/rectifier (http://www.electrosport.com/regulatorre ... 50750.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) unless someone has another recommendation?
Your bike......your decision but the reg/rec fitted to your bike IS adjustable and can be serviced by taking the cover off. Your new one won't! It will either work or not. There are mixed views on fitting a new style one. Some are good some are not. Sometimes all that is needed is a good clean.
TRC wrote:The new battery finish charging and I had some time so here are the new measurements:
- Ignition Off : 12.86 OK
- Ignition On / Kill Switch Off : 12.64 OK
- Ignition On / Kill Switch On: 11.98 OK
- Idle: ~13.1 OK
- 4000 RPM: ~15.3 A bit high
I give approximate values for idle and 4k because the meter is jumping around a lot - not sure if that's expected but I suspect ever seeing anything over 14.5 is bad news...
It's looking like the regulator is out of whack so I'm thinking instead of messing with it I'll go ahead and update to a modern Electrosport regulator/rectifier (http://www.electrosport.com/regulatorre ... 50750.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) unless someone has another recommendation?
Thanks all for the help!
Make sure all the connections from the battery including earths and starter solenoid (big cable from battery +) are clean and shiny. Also check the two plugs under the left panel that go to the rectifier and regulator are the same.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
+1 on not getting a solid state voltage reg, unless its adjustable. The OE is usually fine; you can clean the contacts and alter the voltage. Two types, one with two small screws holding the cover on, the other has two clips at the sides (lever off, bend back on). Have a look, it'll probably need just a clean and a tweak to setting.
If you fit a non adjustable, you will have to modify the loom, promise
The reg 'sees' too low a voltage on that voltage sensing wire due to loom losses and then overcharges the battery. Don't ask me how I know. You then need a relay....
Try to fix the OE one first is my 2c.
Mike
I checked over everything and it looked good so I decided to pop open the regulator. Luckily it was the Kokusan variety with the adjustment screw. I took a piece of very fine sandpaper and gently ran it across the point. I then loosened the nut that keeps the screw in place and backed out the screw a bit and kept adjusting it until the peak readings I was getting at 3000 RPM were 14.4. Tightened up the nut, double checked it and closed it back up. I think the regulator has been rectified.
I put the B7ES in and will now set the carbs to where they idle best (set idle to 2k, put air screw in all the way then back out until best idle, take notes for each carb) and go from there and see how the plugs look after a ride or two. I also got the phone call that the new battery is in so I'm off to pick it up.
OK, before I screw it up again, should I be testing AC or DC voltage? I kid... 
