Oh and for the record, go down to the chart at the bottom of the page -
http://www.elf.com/en/advice-corner/eng ... chart.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and you will see that 20W engine oil is only fractionally thinner than 80W gear oil
Strange but true
T500 Clutch problem
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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- ConnerVT
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Re: T500 Clutch problem
80W-90 Gear oil is equivalent to 20W motor oil.Zunspec4 wrote:You don't need an 80/90 SAE oil in the gear box IMHO and this is probably causing you clutch plates to stick excessively. Suzuki originally specified a regular 20/50 SAE oil, which of course is only 20 SAE at pre-running temperatures.
(tricky beat me to the post)
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Re: T500 Clutch problem
lol, that explains why that Putoline GP10 @ 75W was on the "runny" side
I wonder what brought about two standards for engine v g/box oil?.
Cheers Geoff

I wonder what brought about two standards for engine v g/box oil?.
Cheers Geoff
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Re: T500 Clutch problem
thanks for the help everyone. I ended up buying a T500 Clutch basket from a member here for $30. I am going to swap this "new" one out for the corroded one that I currently have mounted up. Plan on also ordering a set of clutch friction plates from cruzin image. I am fairly confident that will solve the clutch issues, I hope.
- Jimroid
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Re: T500 Clutch problem
Excellent! Let us know the final results.
- joolstacho
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Re: T500 Clutch problem
Sounds like routine gummed up plates to me.
You just need to pull out the existing plates, give 'em a good clean up with kerosine or petrol, reassemble it all, re-fill with decent quality MOTORCYCLE GEARBOX oil.
Adjust the cable correctly, and kick it over in neutral with the clutch pulled in to 'clear' the clutchplates.
(I don't know why you would need new clutch plates, normally the sign of worn clutch plates is slipping clutch, the opposite of your problem).
Clutch basket could be an issue, but it's pretty easy to visually check this on the bike to ensure the plates are separating properly.
You just need to pull out the existing plates, give 'em a good clean up with kerosine or petrol, reassemble it all, re-fill with decent quality MOTORCYCLE GEARBOX oil.
Adjust the cable correctly, and kick it over in neutral with the clutch pulled in to 'clear' the clutchplates.
(I don't know why you would need new clutch plates, normally the sign of worn clutch plates is slipping clutch, the opposite of your problem).
Clutch basket could be an issue, but it's pretty easy to visually check this on the bike to ensure the plates are separating properly.
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- Still in the Driveway
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- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T500 x2
Re: T500 Clutch problem
I had this problem as well, pulling the clutch did nothing to disengage the wheel from the motor. I tried kicking it in neutral with the clutch pulled in - lo and behold, the dirty *** turns over. A couple more kicks freed it up, but the wheel still feels super gummy when trying to turn it while the bike is in gear (doesn't turn the motor over though).
This particular bike has been in storage for 20+ years, so I'm pretty sure the plates need a good degrease. I'll pull the cover off tomorrow, see what's going on, and post what I find.
This particular bike has been in storage for 20+ years, so I'm pretty sure the plates need a good degrease. I'll pull the cover off tomorrow, see what's going on, and post what I find.
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- Still in the Driveway
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- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T500 x2
Re: T500 Clutch problem
yep the clutch plates were gummed up so bad they all came off with the pressure plate... works great now, thanks
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Unfortunately I just busted my kickstart while trying to bleed the oil pump, dammit

Unfortunately I just busted my kickstart while trying to bleed the oil pump, dammit