GT750 - got that blasted cylinder off

[dnaj11]

I got the cylinder off. This is a project bike. Looks like the previous owner broke two head bolts on the right side, then stripped the three of the remaining bolt holes trying trying to remove the cylinder. I got the right side to move, but the left side was stuck. I was able to put tension on the left side buy putting a small hockey puck in the left cylinder at bottom dead center, and using a standard puller on the exhaust and intake mounts, turning the bike on its side and pounding with a 1x2. It came off hard. No additional damage. pix show ugly reason it was stuck. I'll prolly toss the cylinder and by a used one. Are they the same all years? My bike is a 72. Given the sludge in the motor, is there a place on the east coast to send it out? Pix to follow.

[GT750Battleship]

Hi,looks like a complete rebuild coming up ! Models J,K,L are the same 67hp,M,A,B models make more horse power at 70hp,with the aide of CV carbs & shaved cylinder heads,all engines will fit any GT750 crankcase,but the CV carbies mount differently on the later L,M,A,B model barrels.
Cheers,
Roger

[rngdng]

Are your carbs sleeve mounted or flange mounted?



Lane

[dnaj11]

I'm missing the mounts but the carbs are non-cv. Bike is a 1972

[tz375]

Yes, but how do the mount to the cylinder block? Early 72 used a flat flange to bolt the inlet rubber to and later ones all had a tube (spigot) mount.

Early barrels are harder to find but can be replaced with any year barrels as long as you use matching inlet rubbers.

[dnaj11]

Mine uses the flange which the mounts bolt to the cylinder block. I don't have the flanges. Since I am going to the trouble to restore this bike, I'd like to use the correct cylinder and flanges for this year. 1972. Are the bolt on flanges available anywhere?

[Barry S.]

The intake mounts are available for $53 each.

http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[dnaj11]

Thank you. Now I'll try to find an early cylinder. Anyone PM me if you got one to spring loose. Thanks.

[dnaj11]

Ok, got the sludge cleaned off the motor. Found a crack in the front engine mount and a buggered up seal surface? Buggered by the PO. Who fixes this? Can they aluminum weld the crack, build up the surface then mill it flat?

My alternative is to find a donor motor, one with a low serial number. My numbers don't match but they are close in sequence. 13XXX. As with any donor motor, it will have a bad history too and I'll mostly start from square one. It may not save me anything.

[tz375]

The only early cases I have with the number block above the clutch and early style SRIS valves are #29745.

[Barry S.]

Somebody stuck pry bars under the block and busted the case around the coolant passages, I'd look for another motor. The serial numbers never matched the frame anyway.

[dnaj11]

Yes I could find an early donor motor on flea bay, but it's certain to have been some one else's prior problem. I think I'd like to go with the early style engine and cylinder to match the year at least. Numbers don't have to match. Anyone can PM me if they have something.

Another thought, if I repair mine? Are the stud bolts different then the later ones? All my head and cylinder bolts are missing.

[dnaj11]

The only early cases I have with the number block above the clutch and early style SRIS valves are #29745.

Do you still have those engine case?

[Drewski]

Yes I could find an early donor motor on flea bay, but it's certain to have been some one else's prior problem. I think I'd like to go with the early style engine and cylinder to match the year at least. Numbers don't have to match. Anyone can PM me if they have something.

As Barry S says..the numbers don't match anyway. I don't know if it's the same in the States but in the UK "Matching Numbers" means the numbers are the original ones from when the bike was built, meaning the bike has the same frame and engine number as it did new. Obviously, certain models were made within certain number ranges but frame and engine numbers were never the same as far as I'm aware.

When I decide which set I'm using, I'll have a spare set of cases..... but they're M and B model ones I'm afraid.