Buying a GT750

[sprint]

Hi

I am based in the UK and a new member.

I am looking at buying a Suzuki GT750 and would appreciate some advice on which may the the best model to go for in the L to M range?

I understand that after the L model they changed the porting and exhaust (removing the exhaust couplers) to provide more top end speed but as a result sacrificed the lower end torque?

I have never ridden a GT750 so have no experience of how the L and previous models compare to the later M, A and B's but since my riding is mainly around country lanes around the 50/55 mph range would the L model be more suitable with it's lower bottom end or is the change to the later M, A and B's not really that significant?

Are there any specific issues with the L's that make them a model to best avoid and should one be looking at the later M, A or B's?

Thanks

[yeadon_m]

IMO its easier to get hold of an restore an A model as there were I believe most of that year. None of them are so dramatically different from others to make that alone the reason to chose. You may feel more warmly towards the appearance of one model, if so, pick that. Its meant to be fun
If you're buying an unrestored one to restore (recommended, as it'll be 'yours' when you've done) then completeness is really helpful. Don't overpay for half shiny, its no cheaper to make nice from there than dreadful to start with. Note you can buy remanfactured pipe sets for MAB (though they sound a bit spanny for some) and many aftermarket pipes.
I heard it is true that earlier models were more torquey but with gearing tweaks, they can all be nice at the speed you wish.
I lowered the gearing one tooth on front on my A and its fun around the lanes, but still have a good turn of speed.
Cheers,
Mike

[tz375]

Mike is right, the differences between models are not huge. I personally believe that the biggest difference between L and later models is porting, and specifically the intake port which is significantly different.

For me the L is the best looking but an M is OK too. A and B tanks look a little large and work well with certain aftermarket seats.

[sprint]

Thanks for the replies and advice.

My initial thoughts were for the A version, but I am having difficulty in finding one at a sensible price that fits my 'bill'. Really looking for a good original or well restored one as I am not keen to be doing a complete restoration and would be out of my depth with the GT750.

Further reading highlighted the difference between the earlier and later models with respect to the change in power/torque characteristics which changed my view to looking at the earlier L's as well as I want the twin disc version.

However, your suggestion about dropping a tooth or so on the gearbox sprocket is a good idea.

[rngdng]

The only real hassle with the L is the exhaust crossovers. They don't really improve the torque much and they are a real pain to keep sealed. Many people blocked off the crossovers so as not to deal with it any more. The 75 and later engines are a little stronger, but not so much. They are all great bikes.



Lane

[jabcb]

Since you want to limit the amount of work sorting/restoring the bike, you are better off getting the best bike you can without worrying about the model year. Its likely to be far cheaper to spend a little extra to get a nice sorted bike that one that needs some work, especially if you have to pay a shop to do the work.

[yeadon_m]

If you are buying restored then
-make sure there's solid evidence of a competent and complete engine (incl crank) / gearbox / water pump rebuild or you'll buy a show pony that'll break your heart & wallet
-frame painted and wiring sorted is a big plus
-everything else you can change over time if tweaks are needed
Finally....some rebuilds even ones meeting this spec can be horrible. Don't ask me how I know
Best to buy from someone with form who's had their fun and now is moving on. If they have a ton of docs and info, they'll probably be straight. If not....
Cheers,
Mike

[sprint]

If you are buying restored then
-make sure there's solid evidence of a competent and complete engine (incl crank) / gearbox / water pump rebuild or you'll buy a show pony that'll break your heart & wallet
-frame painted and wiring sorted is a big plus
-everything else you can change over time if tweaks are needed
Finally....some rebuilds even ones meeting this spec can be horrible. Don't ask me how I know
Best to buy from someone with form who's had their fun and now is moving on. If they have a ton of docs and info, they'll probably be straight. If not....
Cheers,
Mike

Hi Mike

Thanks for the advice.

It is my intention to try and find one that has fully documented/invoiced work to support work done and as you say ideally from somebody who has had their fun, but finding one that fits that category is not so easy. Dealing with cycle parts are not an issue but I would not like to be having to be doing a complete engine strip which can be problematic with stuck/corroded barrels and crank seals that require specialist crank rebuilds.

Also tend to find what is available is well away from the South coast of UK where I live making viewing difficult, but such is life.

Andy

[rngdng]

If you haven't already get in touch with the Kettle Club which is based in the UK. They can point you to the right people. Good luck.


Lane

[sprint]

If you haven't already get in touch with the Kettle Club which is based in the UK. They can point you to the right people. Good luck.


Lane

Thanks

Have tried to join but their on-line application does not accept any text and the administrator is away!

But will join.

[tz375]

The other question is how stock and original does it need to be? If you don't mind a bike that has say a different exhaust or indicators, that may present more possibilities.

For example I have built a couple with GS750 wheels and rear disk brake and non standard exhausts in the past. Those changes are easy to reverse if someone so desires. In this case the buyer wanted those mod.