Where to start?

[GTandcbr]

like these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GT380- ... 2ee0699097" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;?

[Coyote]

13584-33110 $16.97 each at Partzilla. It's a sad thing when aftermarket cost more than available OEM.

Look on the extreme right side of the frame steering neck There is a plate there (if original) that gives the date of manufacture. In most all cases, the bike is one year newer than the manufacture date. If the plate is missing, the serial number is stamped on the frame in the same location. It will be GT550-xxxxx. With those 5 numbers, we can determine the exact year of the bike.
On the expensive boots, a very innovative builder here made his own by cutting the fingers off a blasting glove. They looked odd, but they worked!

[Red&Gold]

Here's a link to some pics https://www.flickr.com/gp/35420675@N03/GryX42.

[Coyote]

It's a 75. The 1975 frame numbers started with 47113. 1976 models started with frame number 61315.

[bpeck27]

Coyote,

I'd love to see a picture of those blasting glove boots. I tried to use a set that that I made out of rubber gloves but they didn't hold up, so I dug deep and bought a set of real ones. But, in anticipation of the day that they turn to goo, I'm always looking for an alternative.

[Red&Gold]

So if this machine is a 75, is the green not original? I thought that was a 74 color???

[GTandcbr]

http://www.suzukicycles.org/photos/GT/G ... s1_800.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; This shows candy turquoise still available in 1975 I think

[jeff g]

I think you have a 75 bits-a-bike. Bits of this, bits of that. Frame is definitely 75. Motor is late model, but we'd need the number to be sure what year. Bodywork is not 75 , bit without seeing a full shot of the tank, I cant tell what year. The green looks too light for a 76 and completely wrong for both 73 and 74. Could be a 380 body set also, but did they come in green? Of course, if it's a repaint, anyone's guess is good.

As for making it a 1 kick bike...good points, good battery, good compression, and good crank seals are all necessary. Crank seals are checked with a leakdown test. Compression should be above 120 and even across all 3. Down around 105 and you may start to have issues with starting and it running smoothly, however, my 550 didn't quit starting until it got down under 80 psi, though it ran like crap for about a year before I finally parked it to rebuild the motor.

Points can be an issue. If you have the Denso points, you are ok...those are available. If you have the Kokusan...center points are unobtanium unless someone started repoping them in the last couple of years. Fortunately, you can swap Kokusan for denso, you just have to swap the entire assemblies.

Jeff

[Coyote]

Fortunately, you can swap Kokusan for denso, you just have to swap the entire assemblies.

Jeff

Points cam is different as well I just looked on Alpha Sports and the center points are available again, but under a totally different part number.. New number is: MM616-501. It's probably from a different bike but found to work?

[Red&Gold]

Interesting. I'll pull a motor number later today. Carbs are back together, waiting on bellows boots from across the pond to finish. New plugs going in. Does .028 sound about right for B8ES plugs?

Haven't pulled the points cover yet to check the type of points. Doing that to at least clean up the contacts before I try to fire it up. Re-wired the garage this weekend to get trickle chargers right next to the bikes. I was surprised how long it took the 550 to charge back up to full, perhaps a draw somewhere.

Thanks to all for the wealth of knowledge. My Harley (standard) wrenches are getting jealous!

[Coyote]

.028 to .032 on the plug. I always shoot for .030

[Alan H]

Fortunately, you can swap Kokusan for denso, you just have to swap the entire assemblies.

Jeff

Points cam is different as well I just looked on Alpha Sports and the center points are available again, but under a totally different part number.. New number is: MM616-501. It's probably from a different bike but found to work?

Be aware that a wrong/different to standard points cam will give a different dwell, which allows the condenser to charge more (or less depending on the cam profile) and will be designed to suit the coil/condenser for that particular system and affect coil/spark performance and running.

[Red&Gold]

Stage 1 complete... https://flic.kr/p/y4kY8P

Replaced the plugs, didn't look terrible but we're gapped at .018, thought that interesting. Been soaking the tank in apple cider vinegar for the last week. Time to put it all back together now and see what happens.

[Red&Gold]

Well, the bike fired. With the choke on it will start, does not want to run with choke off. Left cylinder not running, as indicated by being able to hold the pipe with bike running), has good spark and fuel in carb. All three carbs rebuilt with kits, so new pilot jets with clear passages. Have not done a compression check on the cylinders as of yet. Oil dripping from collector of the left pipe after running for a few minutes.

The bike seemed to run hot very fast. Originally had the air box off but put it back on with the same results. Air screws are out 1 1/2 turns.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance...

[Alan H]

Well, the bike fired. With the choke on it will start, does not want to run with choke off.

Either blocked pilot jets/carb internal orifices or very weak mixtures. Try with the choke partially on - does it run?

Left cylinder not running, as indicated by being able to hold the pipe with bike running), has good spark and fuel in carb. All three carbs rebuilt with kits, so new pilot jets with clear passages. Have not done a compression check on the cylinders as of yet.

Clean them all again - you didn't think all this would work 1st time did you? Try a squirt of easy start in the carb inlet, does the dead cylinder fire? It's fuel. If not it's something else.

Oil dripping from collector of the left pipe after running for a few minutes.

What do you mean by collector?

The bike seemed to run hot very fast. Originally had the air box off but put it back on with the same results. Air screws are out 1 1/2 turns.

It will get hot quickly, there's no cooling air going past the barrels and head.