Removing GT750 cylinder barrels

[Whit]

Try the picture one more time.

[oldjapanesebikes]

So what is the best way to clean the cylinder studs?

Congrats on getting the barrels off - seldom a fun job ! The wire wheel will work, but last time I let them soak over night in a product called Evaporust which cleaned them up nicely. It is sold in the USA also, plus there are other similar products. You could also use electrolysis - just Google it if you haven't tried it previously - does a nice job to de-rust fuel tanks also.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

If the pitting isn't too bad you can remove them and run them up in a lathe or drill machine holding a file against the shafts to clean the issues. Two are done in the photo, only nine more to go

[Whit]

Those look new. Do you coat them with something before installing them to keep them from re-rusting? //Pat

[tz375]

What I do with them is to wire wheel them clean and then send them off to be zinc plated along with all the other hardware.

Caution: wear a mask when you wire brush things and make sure all the old zinc is removed before they go for plating or else the threads will be slightly oversized and will be really tight in the cases

[jeff kushner]

Yes, watching Whit's progress spurred me into doing more than staring at my engine block. I saw a puller come up on fleabay last week so I invested a few dollars NOT to have to cut and tap the steel I had bought a couple of months ago. It arrived yesterday and within 15 minutes, no joke, 15 minutes & still in my work clothes, I had it broken loose and moving up! Loose of course being a relative term as I'll have to walk it all the way up. I shot a note letting the seller know since he had admitted to taking a hit on the shipping....I figured it might make him feel better knowing that he had helped someone. He doesn't know it yet but I've gone back and sent him some $$ to split the extra shipping cost with him.

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/jeffku ... sort=3&o=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I still have to finish another H1 that I'm working on now but at least this part of my build is moving, literately!

jeff

[Suzukidave]

Jeff it may seem a bit counter productive but i have found once the block moves up a bit is to loosen the pusher bolts and pound the block back down .. seems this action makes it easier to get it passed the starting point . I was very surprised after all the soaking i did how sections of the studs were bone dry when i got the block off

[jeff kushner]

Nope Dave, I can fully understand that working up and down would make it easier. I left it alone once I got to the point in the pics but I'll finish removing it tonight so I can clear my work room so I can finish the other bike. It sure it a relief knowing that I got it loose without causing any damage.

jeff

[jeff kushner]

Finally, SUCCESS!! Whew....I'll tell you guys what many of you already know...that removing that block made me feel like a resto-virgin despite completing well over 2 dozen bikes in just the past 7 yrs. I've done GT550's, Kaw triples of various sizes and even a few four strokers and NEVER met a set of cylinders that was as difficult as this was. As it came off, I saw exactly what you meant Dave about it being dry as a bone...that crud and solidified and "welded" the block to the studs yet mostly flaked off when attacked with a wire brush...almost like brown dust.

As some of you might remember, I bought this from a guy in Ohio and picked it up on my way out to Vintage days last summer. The early flanged-intake block, crank and upper case. Now that I have it disassembled, I can clean it up, put it away till I complete the H1 over the holidays before I begin the build. I sure hope the '74 block on the runner I bought comes off easier than this one did!!! If it doesn't, at least I've got the required tool now!

Thanks for your help guys,
jeff

[Suzukidave]

They can still be a bugger to get to get lifted off .. but Suzuki did respond to this problem by putting the sealing washers on the big head bolts . Getting a set for your early engine for reassembly would be a great idea . I coated the studs on my last assembly with anti-sieze also hoping this will help if i need to pull this engine apart again

[JSJamboree]

Does anyone have a CAD drawing of a puller plate? I am going to look into having one laser cut and it'll make things alot cheaper if someone already has one drawn up.

[Suzukidave]

The plate really doesnt need to be as carefully cut as Laser cutting but would maybe be faster . All it really takes is a rectangle of steel 1/2" thick and is several inches wider and longer than the block and a head gasket . Mark the hole pattern off the gasket onto the plate and drill and tap ( or drill and weld on a nut ) the hole locations where the studs are and just drill a hole for the smaller bolts . A tip on getting new smaller ( hold down ) bolts is get the strongest bolts you can ( same for the pusher bolts ) and also measure thru the the plate to the bottom of the holes in the block to get the longest bolts you can , useng every thread thats in the block will hold down the puller plate better .

[Drewski]

I thought I'd have a go making one of these plates but I'm finding it really difficult to find anywhere online for the bolts, the plate isn't exactly easy to find either.......anyone in the Uk have any suggestions where I might find the bolts?

[Suzukidave]

As many GT fans there are in the UK i cannot see where one couldnt be borrowed ?

[Drewski]

As many GT fans there are in the UK i cannot see where one couldnt be borrowed ?

There should be one available for loan once I've got mine together. I can't believe the problems I had trying to find those bolts online today, got there in the end but I've had to go with 1.5 pitch rather than 1.25.