Opinions requested - to split crankcase or not?

[sbaugz]

Some may recall my story. T500 sitting outside for many years. Started up and idles. Compression 145 each cylinder. Engine coated in sludge everywhere. Decided to remove jugs last night. Will get them vapor blasted and cylinders honed. Hopefully will re use pistons and get new rings.

So here's my new question. I came this far, should I just split crankcase? It would be nice to have those cases vapor blasted too. The bike only has 8000 miles but it's also been sitting for years and the last thing I want is to put it all back together and find out an inner crank seal is bad.
If I commit to that, what do I need to replace? Ie, which seals, bushings and/ or bearings? Would it make sense to have the crank rebuilt too since I am in there? I am doing a full on rebuild of everything else so part of me says just go for it. On the other hand, I don't want to Throw money away needlessly.

With that being said, where are people getting crank rebuild kits? I checked into having bill bune rebuild crank, but I think I have to supply my own parts?

[Coyote]

I'm not the sharpest tack in the box, but crank rebuild, seals and bearings add up to major $$. In your shoes, here's what I would do. Put the top end back together so you can do a leak down test to check the seals. What that amounts to is blocking off the intake and exhaust and the SRIS if the motor has that. Then apply low air pressure through the plug hole. The rule of thumb is 6 psi for 6 minutes. If the pressure leaks right off or you can hear it hissing inside, the seals are shot. If the test proves good, there is no need to open the bottom end. That will save the expense.
There is an alternate test you can do where the motor is now. Fill one crank chamber with kerosene or similar. Wait 24 hours or more and see if any kerosene has leaked into the adjacent crank chamber or out the end seal. Repeat the fluid test on the other crank chamber, again checking the adjacent cylinder and end seal. It is not as accurate as a leak down test, but it's easy to do where you're at. I just redid a GT550 and that's the way I tested mine. It took the better part of a week, but worth the wait.
Anyway, if the fluid test checks out OK, CHANCES are your reals are OK. I realize you want to clean up the cases, but there are other ways. I spent 2 weeks cleaning on my closed bottom end. It's a hassle and messy, but I finally got there. It's sometimes hard to remember, but all the cosmetics in the world won't do anything for the way the bike runs. My 3 cents worth.

[ConnerVT]

I've been down this road with my rebuild, so I'll give you my thoughts.

You will absolutely love the having the jugs and heads vapor blasted. I did this (see this thread) and the results were spectacular. I think the T500 motor is just sexy, with its large fins, and deserves the treatment as it is such an up front visual cue.

I don't know if I would want the crankcase also blasted, because it would have too much with the same look and feel (especially in your case, as I believe your covers are also a matte finish?). Contrasting finishes, to bring things out. If I had my way, I would have found a way to paint the crankcase black. But that's me.

But if you decide to rebuild, what's needed? I'll try to break it down. Forgive me if I forget something. I'll address it in two parts - the crankshaft, and everything else.

Crankshaft - The main bearings and the large end bearings are virtually unobtainable. Skip the Cruisingimage set on eBay, there have been legitimate concerns that the reproduction has serious flaws (read: will fail). Three of the four crank seals are still available from Suzuki, the fourth likely still can be found, but may take some hunting. I believe Bune will supply seals if requested, but time/money will be saved doing it yourself. There are also aftermarket seals for the crankshaft offered on eBay. Again, I would avoid them, as some have had issues with the seals not being correct. Once you are back in engine reassembly, the small end bearings, pins, and rings are all available from Suzuki.

Question now is, should you rebuild the crankshaft? Between parts, labor, and shipping (heavy times 2 ways!), you are looking north of $300. Seems as your motor is in excellent shape, from what you have written. Many here will be quick to say "It's old, the seals will soon fail." But somehow I think yours may be OK for some time.

You may wish to defer your decision to rebuild to after you start disassembly of the motor. If the main bearings spin smoothly, and the connecting rods show little side/side free play of the large end bearings, you are in good shape. you can't see/inspect the seals, but if the general feeling you have once it is in you hands is a good one, you may choose to forgo the crank rebuild for now.

Everything else - Good news is (I believe) everything you need is available from Suzuki. And not all that expensive, either.

• Head gaskets
  Base baskets
  Kick starter shaft seal
  Shifter shaft seal
  Counter shaft seal
  Clutch push rod seal
  Clutch cover seal

There is no gasket between the upper/lower crankcase. Threebond handles that task.

[sbaugz]

Thanks for the great advice. For the leak down test, how do I apply the pressure?

Any advice on a vapor blaster? The one I have used in past is out of business.

[sbaugz]

I found a place that does vapor blasting and honing/ re-boring called Pro-1 Racing Heads in Tempe, AZ. Probably going to send them to this guy for all the work in one place. He says he has lots of experience in two strokes. It will save me some coin rather than shipping them to a Vapor Blaster, paying to ship them back, then shipping to Bill Bune and paying to ship them back yet again.

[rngdng]

Thanks for the great advice. For the leak down test, how do I apply the pressure?

Any advice on a vapor blaster? The one I have used in past is out of business.

You will use a bicycle or basketball pump. You will have to rig something up, everybody does it different I think.


Lane

[ConnerVT]

"vapor blaster", not leak down tester. *chuckle*

I used Bikesalot, out in Oregon. It was a couple of years ago, but you can give him a call/email if you want info.

http://www.vaporblasting.biz/index.html

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