'74 GT550 rebuild - Project Gaki

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I remembered last night about the "drain" screw on the bottom of the bowls. It's getting gas, and it's not too much so it overflows so that is a good sign.

I also researched checking the spark and did that to two of the plugs this morning. Going to have to pull the tank off to get to the center one, but the two I checked were good.

Also, here's a better video as apposed to the crap I had posted earlier. I recharged the battery last night, apparently I drained it as I was attempting to use the electric start.



And like I said, I am about positive the points are crap. They are dirty and grimy. I cleaned the touch points, but that's about all I did with it. Pretty sure they are beyond repair and just need replaced.

I'm wondering if there is an issue that I don't have an exhaust on this thing... Dropping the compression and whatnot.

[Suzukidave]

I love the redneck hard tail

[Alan H]

If the points are bad, it won't start or run properly.
Fit new points and time them properly.
Fully charged battery for best sparks.
If you get big sparks at the points, the capacitors (condensors) are dud.
No exhaust won't cause a problem - except when it starts, it'll scare the bejasus out of you with the noise and smoke!
If it won't go, try a small squirt of easy start into the carbs, but once started it should be OK.
Are the plugs OK?
If you have some 6s instead of the correct 8s - just to start it - fit them, then change them for the right ones after it runs on 3.
Don't ride with plugs that are too high a number, but they're ok in the garage especially after a rebuild.

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I love the redneck hard tail

Engineering of the Gods is what I call it.

So meticulously precise you could set your points to the measurements...

And before anyone asks, I will not make another set. I understand, this is very selfish of me, but I just cannot bear to think that someone else could be rolling with such an eye-catching setup as this and be credited with the achievement. I am sorry.

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If the points are bad, it won't start or run properly.
Fit new points and time them properly.
Fully charged battery for best sparks.
If you get big sparks at the points, the capacitors (condensors) are dud.
No exhaust won't cause a problem - except when it starts, it'll scare the bejasus out of you with the noise and smoke!
If it won't go, try a small squirt of easy start into the carbs, but once started it should be OK.
Are the plugs OK?
If you have some 6s instead of the correct 8s - just to start it - fit them, then change them for the right ones after it runs on 3.
Don't ride with plugs that are too high a number, but they're ok in the garage especially after a rebuild.

Alright, so I now have some direction with this, Awesome! Now, before I buy points unnecessarily, Just from viewing this photo, would you recommend it? Or is this one of the things where you would actually have to inspect them in person?



Battery is fully charged. Woot, checked one thing off the list.

The plugs are NGK B7ES. I read on here they work really well with these old engines. I assume that is what you mean by the 6s and 8s, right?

[Alan H]

Yup. That's right.
The european later models have different porting and run one grade colder plugs (8s).
Those points look horrible - I would definitely change them!

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Appreciate the words of wisdom.

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starter solenoid. Transfers electric to start motor once start button is pushed.

Question, since I don't want to deal with this, and I am having some issues with the starter on this (and don't plan on using it) could I remove the starter solenoid and not wire it up?

[pearljam724]

Solenoid doesn't need wired if you're not using starter. But, it's nice to have in working order if the bike is fussy about starting. Your armature or ground likely needs cleaned and perhaps brushes replaced. Starter repair is a breeze once you research how to clean armature properly and have one experience under your belt. With the starter internals properly clean, good clean ground, good battery. It will spin much faster than a starter in need of repair. These bikes need a battery in very good condition or they simply will not run right. With a battery that is less. They will often fool people into something else is wrong. Because they often start, but run poorly. A top notch battery is a must, regardless of only wanting to use kicker. If the solenoid makes a clicking sound when starter button is pushed. Solenoid is good. Contacts in starter switch may need cleaned also. You have to properly test a battery. Only charging it or a battery recently purchased, doesn't mean it's any good. A bad battery will charge and often hold a charge while sitting.

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Righty-o... This weekend I took off and cleaned the points, then put them back on and set the gap and the timing. I know it's not perfect, I plan to let a professional do that since I don't have the right tools to get it perfect, nor do I know how to set up the jets and whatnot for my setup so it runs optimally. Fortunately, I know of a guy that used to work for Suzuki back in the 70s.




I must have done something right since I got the bike started. It was only running on two cylinders the second time I had it running (so my 4 year old could see it), not sure about the one in the video as I was just excited to hear it fire up... didn't think to look.



One of my condensers (having a brainfart at the moment on the name if this is incorrect) is bad as I am getting a noticeable spark on the points. You can see it in the video. But, at least now I know that I can actually move forward with this. I have it running and probably need to properly clean the carbs on the thing along with have the timing set correctly.

Now, a question... the left cylinder is the one that is on the left when you are sitting on the bike, correct?

That was the cylinder that wasn't firing (or puffing smoke) when I started it the second time. I would say that gas is getting to it and there is spark since I had a flame shoot out of it at one point. That scared me.

Really excited to have this thing running since I have no clue when the last time it was actually fired up.

[pearljam724]

Yes, left cylinder is on left sitting on bike. Left cylinder is critical to timing all cylinders. Don't start the bike until you or someone else is confident in timing it. With the flame or popping you can hole a piston. Research, how to time. It's quite easy once you push yourself to understand it.

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appreciate it.

[Suzukidave]

Not sure how much you are , but .. i would refrain from running the engine without the pipes on .

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Actually it was that amount in the video and about 10-15 seconds after that. Since then, the bike's power has been disconnected and will sit until I get the exhaust back on.

My main goal had been to just get this thing running before I really try to troubleshoot a lot of things on it and start throwing parts at it. I have done that now, even if it's not running perfectly, so now I can throw some parts at it.

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Okily-dokily, not much of an update at this point, but it's something...

I have a full new set of points and a new condenser sitting in the garage waiting to be installed and set.

I have handle bars on order and shipped so I can actually maneuver the bike around.

Now, I decided to drill out the bolts that broke off.

One being in the top triple-tree (I think that is the correct name) mount that holds the fork in place. Got that one.

Then I moved onto the lodged bolt in the engine for the exhaust... Got it drilled. Those left-hand bits did a mighty fine job. But then the screw extractor broke off. Got that bit out and tried a better(more expensive) one and that broke off as well. Stupid extractors. Stupid me. Anyway, currently working on getting the second extractor out.

Now the plan is just to drill the bolts out and retap. Screw the stupid extractors... I won't fall for it again. I won't.

Also, I noticed that the spark plug wires were swapped one day. The little white tag around the cable with L and R were on the wrong side. So I changed them over.

Now, the reason I bring this up, I could see a good sized spark at the R point identifying a bad condenser. This would be a cause for a cylinder to not fire correct?

If so, that would by why the left cylinder wasn't firing... Previous owner could have swapped the plug wires when he changed the coils. The reason I ask is because the right cylinder was firing...

Haven't looked at anything, just been brainstorming.