Always wanted one from w....a.....y back in the day...Yes I remember them the first time round!
I've had a Gp125 (still got it!)
T500 nice but a bit vibey?
Also had a SB200 as a commuter, about the most reliable bike I ever owned did about 40k on that
Now I have the T350 and a Norton Classic Rotary...No I'm not sure either
Been restoring the Gp125 I'll get a picture of that as well
Cheers
Bonnietiler
It's got mainly genuine Suzuki parts throughout, its a 1970 but actually a genuine UK model, most have come in from the USA.
Starts and runs well..Tickover, though, a bit high and reluctant to go down after a run, it has a genuine 6 wire ignition switch and I'm looking for a replacement but struggling unless anybody knows how a 4 wire can be converted?
Cheers
Bonnietiler
The 6 wire switches split the power circuits for bikes that run heavier loads and there is a completely separate circuit for parking lights in position 3. We don't need them nowadays, so it would be easy to redo that wiring.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
If your UK-spec T350 is like the US-spec bikes, then your ignition switch has 4 positions: off, on, on + lights & parking.
If that's the case, then you need all 6 wires.
Your bike doesn't have a voltage regulator.
Instead, the switch also controls the alternator output.
So 2 of the wires are for the alternator lighting coil.
If you don't find a correct switch, then you can make a 4-wire 4-position switch work if it has the same 4 positions (off, on, on + lights & parking).
To do this, you discard the rectifier, upgrade to a modern rectifier/regulator & wire the alternator for maximum output.
I have some posts about doing this upgrade.
If you decide to go this route, let me know & I'll find those posts.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
that was my 1st proper bike back in the 70's.
part exchange it for a T500j same colour tank.
this was my last bike a T500m sold it to this same guy who is selling it on ebay as of now.
Real nice 350 you have there. I am in the long process of restoring a 1970 T 350. It appears that yours has the original color paint. I went with a different shade red, but now probably should have used the original color or something close to it. Started this project in November and hope to have it completed by the 2 stroke smoke out we have here in SoCal in September at Cooks Corner. Quite a show with a 100 or so smokers which are fired up at noon.
This post shows 3 diagrams for the T250/T350 alternator wiring. viewtopic.php?f=29&t=6786&p=121472&hili ... or#p121472
The first diagram is stock wiring.
Ignore the second diagram.
The third diagram shows how to bypass the ignition switch so that the alternator always provides maximum output.
To get maximum output all of the time, use the third diagram & replace the rectifier with a modern rectifier/regulator.
Presumably there are other good choices in the UK.
Upgrading vintage Triumphs with rectifier/regulators is popular -- a shop/website for those bikes likely will have something.
Just remember that the T350 is negative ground & lots of old British bikes are positive ground.
Here is a pic of the Tympanium on my GT250:
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
Was there a change in engine head design from 70 or 71? Those 350's I've seen have the head fins angled and not straightforward like on this one and the T250.
I'm still looking for an engine for my 69 T250, and wouldn't mind a 350 motor for it. If early 350's has the same head design that's even better.
The 69 and 70 models had the straight fins on the heads, then for 71 & 72 they had the angled fins. On my bike, even though it's a 1970, the PO had swapped out the heads and put on the angled fin ones. I thought they looked OK so left them that way.
