t500 bad crank oil seal, process? remove engine?

[PippiFyrecracker]

I've ordered all the parts I need and I'm wondering if I can check to see if its the left or the right oil seal that is leaking. Or if it even matters. Would I be able to access it by taking off side covers etc? Or is it enevitable that I remove the engine and split it horitozontally etc to access the crank? I'm trying to keep it simple as this is my first time repairing anything bottom end related.

[Craig380]

Hi, what symptoms are you getting that point towards a dying oil seal?

I believe replacing the crank seals is best left to a specialist that has a hydraulic press, jigs, bearing pullers etc for disassembling / reassembling the crank, if you don't have these it's going to be a tough job.

[parksie]

Both the outer seals can be replaced without pulling the crank out. As Craig said what are the symtoms

[PippiFyrecracker]

It was sucking oil, thanks for the info! I replaced the oil seal on the clutch side today and its smoking less already, My friend and I are gonna do the left side next week when I pick up the tools to check the timing. hopefully that will be good enough, if its one of the middle o-rings that is leaking then I suppose I will find that out after riding it...again. I will get all new seals if thats the case.

[Craig380]

If it's definitely sucking / burning oil from the transmission then the centre seals have gone, which means a complete engine strip and crank rebuild, unfortunately.

I've seen a couple of posts where T500 owners with leaking centre have put fresh oil in the tranny with a bottle of automotive 'seal sweller', and they say this stopped their bikes burning oil ... for the small cost of some fresh oil and the seal sweller, this could be worth a try. It may postpone the rebuild for a while, maybe even indefinitely.

[parksie]

Craig is probably right that the centre seals are gone as well if it is still sucking oil after changing the right side seal. The left side seal wont suck trany oil if its shot it will just make that side pot lean. the only seals that seal the trany is the centre and the right seals. I don't know if I would use "seal sweller" though, it might help in the very short term but chances are they will eventually blow out when you least need it as they tend to soften the seal material.

[PippiFyrecracker]

not too sure about the center seals, I saw that they were just skinny O rings, I didn't see any other seals when I went and looked at another crank from a t500 to get an idea of what I was dealing with so here is an update!
my friend and I successfully changed both oil seals, without a horizontal split in the engine. kept to the minimum work. we did the clutch side first since its usually the most common to go. Also the new ones were from the engine seal kit on ebay (somewhere in british columbia)
sidenotes.
we had to jam a piece of aluminum on the right-clutch side to stop the crank from turning while trying to get off some of the peices.
we used the rear axle as a puller on the alternator-left side.

I'll msg back after some riding and report back if this solved the issue or not.. fingers crossed!

[parksie]

The centre bearing has an oil seal on both sides of the bearing which you won't be able to see unless you pull the crank apart (not recommended unless your an expert). The O rings on all the bearings are for sealing the outer bearing surface with the cases.

[PippiFyrecracker]

Hmmm would there be any symptoms if its a center seal? How can I tell? The altenator side was for sure leaking before we changed it... so I was hoping it was the only one.

[ConnerVT]

It will suck in and burn transmission oil. Symptoms would be smoke in the exhaust (which can be several issues) and a loss of transmission oil.

[PippiFyrecracker]

yes that was happening, but that would also be the same symptoms for any of the crank seals no? when I got to the alternator side it looks like there was a leak so I replaced it, I've been riding it, I'm going to drain the oil this weekend and see if its still burning it. unless there is another way to test it? I've been reading about leakdown tests and spark plug stuff so maybe I'll start there...