We try not to start discussions about oil in any thread around here. Opinions are a lot like @$$holes - everybody has one. The good news is, for the short term, almost any 2-stroke oil will work in a pinch. Even those you get in the hardware store or big box department store like Walmart. I've even thrown 10W-40 4 stroke oil in, when I was running out, and still had 30 miles to get home. But a quality 2-stroke oil is worth the investment, after investing time and money into your ride.
Once you have the oil pump off, it will be easy to see how it is driven. I kick it over a few times, to remind myself which way the pump shaft spins.
edit: That's right, yours is late model, so the carbs are back over the pump a little farther. Yeah, you may need to pull the carb off, to make life easier, and gain a little more room to work. Good news is, after you have removed the carbs about 15 times, you can do it pretty quickly. When jetting mine, probably had the carbs off 20+ times, and now can do the job in about an hour (and I remove the battery box, air box, etc when I do it - I like room to work).
1973 t500 wont start
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- ConnerVT
- Novice racer
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:01 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T500R (now), T500M (40 yrs ago)
- Location: North of Albany, NY
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- On the street
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2015 6:18 pm
- Country: usa
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1973 t500
Re: 1973 t500 wont start
I AM GLAD TO SAY SHE IS RUNNNNNNNNNING....
Everyone's replies has a played a role in getting it done..i was able to bleed the inlet line and premixed 32:1 in the tank and just held the oil lever linkage with my finger till all air bubbles were gone and ensure all lines were moving freely... i can now allow the bike to idle at Neutral without fear of being starved for oil.....i shifted into low gear , 1st and back into Neutral . Now i will change the gear oil with Valvoline/High performance gear oil SAE 80W-90 1 gal. ( someone mentioned it in one of the threads so ill go with this ) .. Thanks to everyone who helped me in daig. and getting this thing running.
edit: i just walked back to the bike and noticed the right exhaust is leaking oil. not where it meets the head but the lower portion that looks like PO had an exhaust leak and patched it with some sort of puddy. Would it be safe to assume this is because of the premix i just made in the tank and the bike sitting for soo long ? the left side is fine with no leaks or oil spillage....See picture
Everyone's replies has a played a role in getting it done..i was able to bleed the inlet line and premixed 32:1 in the tank and just held the oil lever linkage with my finger till all air bubbles were gone and ensure all lines were moving freely... i can now allow the bike to idle at Neutral without fear of being starved for oil.....i shifted into low gear , 1st and back into Neutral . Now i will change the gear oil with Valvoline/High performance gear oil SAE 80W-90 1 gal. ( someone mentioned it in one of the threads so ill go with this ) .. Thanks to everyone who helped me in daig. and getting this thing running.
edit: i just walked back to the bike and noticed the right exhaust is leaking oil. not where it meets the head but the lower portion that looks like PO had an exhaust leak and patched it with some sort of puddy. Would it be safe to assume this is because of the premix i just made in the tank and the bike sitting for soo long ? the left side is fine with no leaks or oil spillage....See picture
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- ConnerVT
- Novice racer
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:01 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T500R (now), T500M (40 yrs ago)
- Location: North of Albany, NY
Re: 1973 t500 wont start
Yes. That's a safe assumption.freedom0226 wrote: Would it be safe to assume this is because of the premix i just made in the tank and the bike sitting for soo long ?
Congrats on having her running. It's a good feeling.
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- Expert racer
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- Suzuki 2-Strokes: TS100, T200, GT250, T500, GT500, GT550, GT750, GS750
- Location: Southeast England
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Re: 1973 t500 wont start
That liquid is possibly largely dirty petrol. I'm guessing the motor got turned over a fair bit before it started, and the unspent fuel ends up in the mufffler. If the oem seal that sits at the header/muffler joint is less than 100%, then it will drip from there. Now the engine is running ok, the excess fuel will dry up, and the issue will be gone.
Keeping old 2 strokes alive !