GT185 update

[Spitfire]

Thanks Guys for the responses, I have removed the clutch assembly
First thing was that the plates were all rusty and half of them were stuck together
And as pin previous notes ,I still could remove the push rod,I. Put the clutch lever back on and lined it up with the mark on the. Casing
I inserted a small screwdriver down the shaft until it touched the pushrods ,then turned the lever and the screwdriver moved in and out ok
So new plates are purchased ,so as soon as they arrive ,I will replicate what i have done and hopefully the plates will disengage without having turn the adjuster all the way in
thanks will let you know

[Spitfire]

New plates arrived and fitted,adjusted the adjuster screw as per the service manual ,still the threads went all the way down into the pressure plate before I felt any resistance
Looking at the diagrams it has a push rod and the adjuster screw ,so I got a ball bearing (1/4)that rbond suggested and now it works a dream
There is evidence of somebody being in there before me ,the tab washer on the clutch and drive gear were not bent over, I am not sure if the wrong push rod was inserted but I cannot get it out to clarify
But like I say the clutch now wrks

[yeadon_m]

Result! good to read,
Mike

[Spitfire]

Just took the top cap of the forks and there was no spacer and washer ,just the spring
A couple of questions what is the difference in the spacers the schematic shows different ones ,and the more I dig into this bike I am not sure of the actual year
Also what is the length of the spring supposed to be ,it will be take some effort to get it back in plus the spacer ,even with the fork leg extended it shows out of the top
As always any info gratefully received

[Spitfire]

I have some photos of what I have ,but they are too big

[jabcb]

The fork springs need to be preloaded so that they are compressed a bit when the forks are fully extended.
How much depends on the specific bike.

If you aren't sure your setup is correct, then its a good idea to check the static sag.
The static sag is the amount the forks are compressed by the weight of the bike + rider when the bike is stationary.
To measure sag see: http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm

The reference defines the optimal sag as a percentage of total travel.
A static sag of something like 1 to 1-1/2 inches is probably good for your bike.

Even if you have all the correct parts, you sag might be quite different. The Japanese weren't the best at setting up suspension back then. Additionally your springs are may have collapsed a bit over the years.

Am not an expert, so others may be able to provide more info.

[Spitfire]

Thanks Jacob, I was concerned that there were parts missing , I am going to put them back together with what I have got and will try your comments

[Spitfire]

Matter interest does anybody know what the length of the spacer is in the fork tube