Did I get the wrong oil?

[Coyote]

OK. It's my understanding not to use synthetic or synthetic blended oils for break in of a fresh top end. So I went to the auto parts store and bought a quart of 'Master Pro' 2 cycle oil. The bottle says it's suitable for pre mix or injection. However the oil is rated TC W3. After some research and reading some blogs. the opinion is this oil is designed for water cooled 2 strokes and should not be used in air cooled motors. But the bottle also states it can be used in chain saws and line trimmers. It's been a while since I've seen a water cooled chain saw.
I am running across mixed opinions o use of this oil in an air cooled engine. What do you think? Should I get something else?. It's a drag that I can't return it because I opened it to see the color. It is a brilliant blue. Six bucks wasted?

[tz375]

There appear to be two oils in that Brand. One is a simple low ash oil for air and water cooled motors and the other is Synthetic.

If you go the basic http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MP20/80022.oap" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; you should be OK.

[Coyote]

They had that one too. I looked it over and I didn't where it said it was suitable for injection systems.. I'll get that one and chalk this one up as yet another foo-paw. I wonder what they mean by pre-diluted? Diluted with what?

[Craig380]

The 'pre-diluted' just means it can be used as a pre-mix or injector oil, I remember reading the same question in an FAQ on the Silkolene website.

[Coyote]

Well I went back and bought that one. This must be an older bottle as it says nothing about pre-diluted or suitable for injection. Says for high performance snowmobiles and personal watercraft with water cooled or air cooled engines. Recommended for SkiDoo, SeaDoo, Kawasali Jet ski, Yamaha Wave Runner, Polaris, Arctic Cat and jet boats. Same pat number 80022

[pearljam724]

TC W3 is an oil suggested for later oil injected systems. I use it in the triples also. The Yamaha RZ is one bike for example that in it's manual suggests that oil to be used. You bring up a good point about the 550 being air cooled. I wouldn't think that would make a big difference as long as the bike isn't sitting at idle for too long of a period during the break in cycle period. I own 2 air cooled bikes and I avoid them sitting at idle for extended periods regardless.

[tz375]

We're in danger of starting yet another oil thread....

I suspect that the water cooled - air cooled thing may relate to temperatures and with "ashless" oil, the additives break down at higher load/temperatures.

[pearljam724]

We're in danger of starting yet another oil thread....

I suspect that the water cooled - air cooled thing may relate to temperatures and with "ashless" oil, the additives break down at higher load/temperatures.

Yeah, I don't want to even venture into those waters I'm simply stating that it shouldn't matter if a motor is water, oil or air cooled as long as any of those motors aren't allowed to over heat. As you know, any air cooled motor gets ample cooling as long as it's getting enough air flow or isn't put under an extreme amount of stress while moving. There isn't much of a difference in running temperatures comparing a water cooled motor to an air cooled as long as the air cooled motor is getting a significant amount of air flow. Sure, the water cooled engine cools more efficiently more often. I'm simply stating under those circumstances, I think the point about ashless oil is kind of over analyzed. Nearly all of us run ashless oil in our bikes today. So as long as the motor isn't allowed to over heat during a break in period. I personally, wouldn't worry about it. If the bike had valves. That would be a totally different scenario. I'm positive that there are thousands of these motors being rebuilt, broken in using ashless oil with no ill side effects. I'm not debating good points that were made.