Paint mixing code

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ogri211
Still in the Driveway
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Suzuki 2-Strokes: Gt500, Gt250B, Gs1000E, Gsx 1100, GSXR 750,

Paint mixing code

Post by ogri211 »


I'm looking to get my GT 750a painted the original Candy Gypsy Red no3 but all I can find is the original Suzuki code 00j I need the mixing code or a colour that is very close the only place in the UK that supplies paint is RS Paints who are very expensive and for obvious reasons won't give out the mixing code any help greatly appreciated.
Gt500A, Triumph Rocket 3, Triumph Speedtona, Rd350 YPVS on Rebuild, and GT750 in bits
pearljam724
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Re: Paint mixing code

Post by pearljam724 »

The paint mixing codes for these bikes are useless and out dated. Your only option would be to obtain an original part, painted in that original color. Have that piece photo scanned at a paint shop to match paint. That option works very well in getting the paint to match close as possible. A side cover painted in that original color would be your best option as it can easily be scanned because it's fairly flat. Assuming it's not faded too much. A gas tank can't be scanned because of it's curved contours. Or find another object that is flat nearly the same color and have that scanned. That's your only option other than RS paints. There is a difference though between a single stage paint that will look nearly the same as a real candy paint. But, a real candy paint job can only be obtained through multiple layers of paint. A silver metallic as a base over the primer. And a translucent red over the silver metallic. Followed by a clear. All of this means, it will be up to you and the painter to decide how many coats of the translucent red you want to make the finished product to look as close as the original color. The more layers of translucent red will change the depth or darkness. He can make a mock up paint job on a small object with different numbers of layers of the translucent red to allow you to decide how many layers you want and how the finished paint will look. Or you can go with single stage paint job by using a scan. But, that won't be a true candy paint job. A true candy paint job will turn dozens of different shades of colors depending on the light conditions and at what angles that light is hitting the paint. This is an example of a real candy paint job. It changes colors vastly depending on where you are looking and how much light is hitting that object. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQNZhzc ... wl8s6DKBww" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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joolstacho
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Re: Paint mixing code

Post by joolstacho »

Pearls of wisdom PearlJam.
Next on my to do list is a 'true' pearl job. (I think I'll try it on a guitar first).
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Coyote
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Re: Paint mixing code

Post by Coyote »

I wouldn't practice too much with pearl. It's expensive.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.

.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
pearljam724
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Re: Paint mixing code

Post by pearljam724 »

A thing I forgot to mention. When having something painted candy. It's best to only use one layer of clear or no clear at all. More layers of clear will greatly reduce the ability of the translucent color to change colors or represent the silver metallic base. None of the original candy paint jobs used clear. Using clear wasn't vastly used until the late 80's. I elected to use one very thin layer of clear to protect the paint. Because once a candy paint job is gouged, nicked, etc. There's no way to touch it up well. You have to strip it down and paint it over. Candy looks amazing and to be honest can't be accurately mimicked with a single stage paint. But this is one of the reasons manufactures moved on from candy paints. You have to be extremely careful not to put a scratch it. Unlike a single stage paint, a touch up will be very visible.
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