GT550 budget build

[Suzukidave]

Hummm , back firing sure makes it sound like the timing is off . Do you have a timing light ?

[tz375]

The timing may have slipped, as Dave suggested, or it's more crud in the pilot jets.

[Cragdog]

I do have a timing light and used it when I replaced my points and condensers. I thought I did it correctly, but perhaps I made some mistakes.
When setting the timing, the light goes off precisely when the point begins to open correct? And this should also be when the timing mark matches up with the point you are adjusting right? That's what I did at least, hopefully someone knows something I don't. I'd really hate to take the carbs off again, but they have all new jets and were thoroughly cleaned before I rebuilt them. Fuel is coming out the overflow of the middle carb tho when I put gas through them.

[ConnerVT]

Fuel is coming out the overflow of the middle carb tho when I put gas through them.

Fuel coming out of the overflow means that the needle/seat isn't closing when the float reaches the correct height. Either there is something wrong with the needle/seat (dirty, wrong parts, bad gasket on seat) or the float height is not set correctly.

[Suzukidave]

I do have a timing light and used it when I replaced my points and condensers.

It does sound like you have it set up correct .. like Richard has said before when everything points to the electrics its in the carbs . Yep .. you have to get the carb flooding problem solved for sure , the manual doesnt really show the correct way to set the floats with the carb positioned straight up . You really have tilt the carbs so the tag on the float just contacts the float needle . And like Richard suggested while you are in the bowl it would be a good time to check those pilot jets for bits .

[Cragdog]

Okay, thanks for the input you guys. I will work on the carbs some more and see if I can't figure out where the problem lies. Appreciate the support!

[Suzukidave]

I cannot remember if we pointed you to the carb repair manual http://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_G ... cover.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Cragdog]

I cannot remember if we pointed you to the carb repair manual http://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_G ... cover.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Dave, yes you have, I've read through the carb manual several times, but perhaps I've missed something.. I am just confused because I spent several days cleaning and rebuilding the carbs, and installed all new parts (except for floats and choke system) such as new main jet #98, pilot jet #25, pilot air screw and spring, jet needle and clip, float gasket and top cover gasket. When I cleaned them I removed every piece, soaked them in Berryman's Chemdip for a few hours a day over several days scrubbing them with a brush in between; rinse, repeat, then blow dried with compressed air once I was satisfied. I set my float levels at 27mm, and the floats themselves were in decent shape with no holes. So with all this done I don't see why my bowls would still be overflowing? I'm going to open them up again anyway and have another look. Thanks everyone

[Coyote]

I hope you didn't use compressed air after the carbs were assembled. Compressed air, especially blown into the fuel inlet will collapse the floats. They loose their surface area and don't shut off the fuel anymore. The carbs overflow. Normally, the floats need to be replaced.

[Suzukidave]

You may have done it while cleaning the carbs but just didnt list it .. but a good idea is to squirt spray carb cleaner through all the tiny ports that go through the carb body into the venturi , there should be a equal flow out the tiny ports on each carb when you spray through them .

[tz375]

I thought that the timing light comes on when the points open. When they are closed all power takes the path of least resistance - through the points to ground.

Hopefully someone will be along shortly that knows better.

[Suzukidave]

I thought that the timing light comes on when the points open. When they are closed all power takes the path of least resistance - through the points to ground.

Hopefully someone will be along shortly that knows better.

Hummm , i was taking it as he had a test light rigged to show when the point opened , you are right Richard if he was testing with a timing light while the engine was being cranked the timing light should flash on the timing mark just as the point opens .

[Coyote]

My converted flashlight is always on. Goes off when the points open as the circuit is broken (opened). Alligator clips on end of wires not shown. No ignition. Easy to make and cheap. Flashlight from the dollar store. Batteries, wires and clips on hand.

[tz375]

Coyote,
Where do the red and black leads connect to when you set timing? Ground and the power lead to the points?

[ConnerVT]

Coyote,
Where do the red and black leads connect to when you set timing? Ground and the power lead to the points?

This is what I do. I remove the battery, and also disconnect the lead to the points (so the condensor and other wiring do not interact with the test light.

The test light that Coyote uses and a Timing light are 2 different things. Coyote's is a continuity tester, which lights when a circuit is closed. (In this case, when the points are closed). A timing light is attached to the spark plug wire (as well as power and ground), and flashes a Xenon bulb when it senses voltage in the spark plug wire.

Both can be useful when setting up the ignition. I use my test light when initially setting up the timing, then check (and maybe tweak) the timing using my timing light. I was surprised to find that when I set with just the test light, that my timing was a bit retarded, and more on one cylinder than the other.