Coyote wrote:The hoses are metric. 2mm to be exact. Not even the best of hardware stores will have it. You might get by with 3/32 hose but the clips are another issue entirely. Never seen anything like them. anywhere. Essentially they are a very thin walled split sleeve. You slip them on the hose before pushing the hose over the barb. Then the clip slides over that.
This is a budget build right? There is another method that is used widely. Just omit the whole damned mess. Just remove the SRIS valves from the crankcase and replace them with bolts and new crush washers. On the cylinder end, just install some tight fighting vacuum caps on them. You're good to go.
The SRIS was invented by Suzuki. It's only purpose was to prevent excessive smoke while waiting at stop lights or in heavy traffic. The bike will run no differently with the SRIS omitted and the cost is nearly zilch.
Interesting, I was wondering how necessary this system was. I might try to plug it up just so I can hear this thing run. I gotta find some 2-stroke moto oil somewhere tho, seems like no one sells it in my area... Might just have to buy online I guess.
Alan H wrote:You should have mail Cragdog.
Another handy book is HERE (clicky) and goes into much more detail than either the Clymer or Haynes books. I have one of the original ones that I bought in 1972 and it's VERY well thumbed. Before you buy one, ask the seller which year models it covers so you get the correct one. Later the better.
A parts manual is also handy, if you get a late one it does for all models and you can see when parts changed, and also full exploded diagrams of ALL parts are handy when putting it back together.
Just re-read your post and note that you have one - D'ohhh!!
Alan, which book in particular is the better one? That link took me to a list of different manuals on eBay.
Right now I have: Clymer manual, parts catalog (all years, really cool), and the service manual you just sent me which has some great info as well. Thank you!
THIS ONE would be very good. The one I have is only for the J (and K really, as there aren't too many differences - carbs and front brake mainly) but the one in the link is dated 1977 and should cover all models. This is by Suzuki and I have used mine a lot. It's certainly better than Clymer, Haynes is OK, but probably seen more in the UK.
Coyote is right about the Clymer book, just wear gloves in case your fingers go through!!!
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
Does anyone know off hand what size bolts I need to mount the alternator to the case? Or would be willing to take a look at theirs? Looks like they aren't available from Suzuki anymore and I need to find some. Thanks!
The bolts on the Denso alternator are part number 02111-05458 which translates (using the first 4 digits of the second number) 5mm x 45mm long.
The bolts on the Kokusan alternator are part number 31433-21048 which doesn't seem to translate at all. I wouldn't think the bolts are much different between the two anyway, so just try some 5mm bolts 45mm long or if you have a depth gauge vernier, check the total depth and with a flat and spring washer under the bolt head, the bolt shouldn't bottom in the hole. Shorten by a couple of MM if in doubt. I'll have a look at mine in the morning and see what's fitted.
A parts catalogue is very handy here for exploded diagrams of every part and part numbers. Keep your eyes out on ebay.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
Thanks Alan, I did use my parts catalogue to look up the part number for the kokusan and tried searching the web for that part number, but everywhere said discontinued. I wasn't aware those numbers bear any significance to the size of the bolts. I will go get some 5mm bolts and see what happens. Thanks again for your help.
Go to AlbanyFasteners.com Very good seller, sells nearly every stainless steel allan metric fastener known to man. Extremely reasonable prices compared to what else is offered in the American public. Free shipping on orders over $15. I replaced every single fastener with flats, locks, and nuts on my restoration for less than 60 dollars. That included quite a few large size bolts, nuts and washers. All stainless. I would suggest buying a bolt gauge to determine what sizes and threads you need. Gauge cost is around 5 bucks at any Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. +1 on the Clymer manual often not being correct.
So I went to the hardware store and bought three 5mm x 45mm bolts, I measured the threads extending off both from the ND and Kokusan alternators, there was about 3mm more with the Kokusan so I trimmed 3mm off each, the alternator is now happily in place. Thanks Alan for your help on that.
I moved on to the oil pump. I primed all the lines as described in another thread here. Bled out whatever was left over inside them. I like the look of the blue oil in the lines.
Then I moved on to the SRIS, I got the replacement hoses in. When I removed the valves from the front of the engine only one came out with the screen still attached and the other two I can't seem to get at. The screen from the one that did come out is in bad shape, don't think it can be used again.
So I got the other two screens out with a little finesse.. One looks "ok" but the other two aren't so good. Since Coyote informed me that the whole SRIS system can be eliminated anyway, can I just reuse these screens even though two are ripped?
I'm just going to plug up the SRIS right now and work on trying to hear this thing run.
Does anyone know where these two wires go? Are they for the oil pump? I'm not sure what to do with these..