Welp, I found my charging issue.

[pearljam724]

Carried over from this thread. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8892" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Looked at every terminal charge related, nothing. Coils, nothing. Points, nothing. Plugs, nothing. Alternator, nothing. Etc, Etc. Had this on going problem for over a month. I had just bought a new sealed Scorpion battery on line in late spring. Charged it 4 to 5 times and checked it with a battery tester I have for boat batteries. That shows green, for full charge. Yellow for low voltage and red for drained. After each charge it held strong for over a 24 hour period before I reinstalled it for a short ride. Each time it easily started the bike, but I was left stranded within a couple of miles. This time, after checking every possibility and thinking " No way, it's the battery. " Something has to be draining it. " I put a multimeter on it before I installed. Like before, it held at 13 volts without that voltage steadily dropping like a crap battery normally does. Installed it, turned ignition on without starting. Voltage dropped to 12 volts. Good, right ? Started the bike and the reading immediately took a nose dive to 3 or 4 volts and the bike would not run on more than one cylinder. Went to Wallyworld and bought a new acid filled battery. Rode all day, with no further complications. Moral of the story, I knew better. But, ruled out the one thing that would be the main cause. Cause it was new and it consistently held a charge for however long it would sit. Still doesn't explain, why a terminal on the rear of the rectifier melted off ?

[Suzsmokeyallan]

It would still be useful to know what the voltage is across the battery when the bikes running at idle and also at 3000rpm held steady with the headlight on high beam.
Especially more so now with the new battery installed in it.

[pearljam724]

Yeah, I forgot to check that. Actually, I figured that I didn't need to go any further being I found that problem once I resorted to the multimeter. But, I see what you are saying. That may explain the cause of the rectifier terminal. I'll be the first to admit, I'm not an electronic guru. But, I'm learning to do those things with these bikes and finding out they are not that electronically complex. Especially, with the help of a quite a few of you on here. Thanks

[pearljam724]

Connected multimeter at idle and 3k rpm today. Idle reading was 14.7 and 3K rpm was 15.3 I think that is good. Can anyone confirm that.

[GT750Battleship]

All good,your readings are similar to mine at those RPM..after I had issues with a faulty Ignition Switch,which I replaced with a Genuine one...
Regards,
GT750Battleship.

[pearljam724]

All good,your readings are similar to mine at those RPM..after I had issues with a faulty Ignition Switch,which I replaced with a Genuine one...
Regards,
GT750Battleship.

Much appreciated, Battleship. I however, did it quickly and forgot to turn on the light. Have any idea, roughly what that should read ?

[yeadon_m]

Pearljam,
I think you don't want to exceed 14.2V at any RPM or that will over time kill your battery.
Maybe that is what killed the last one?
Some battery chemistries are less sensitive to over voltage than others but none of them enjoy being cooked up!
Cheers,
Mike

[GT750Battleship]

Got me thinking after Mike's post...re checked mine this morning with lights on high beam at 3,000rpm..meter read 13.75 volts, at idle,no lights around 12.5 volts,my battery fairly new by the way..
Regards
Battleship.

[pearljam724]

Pearljam,
I think you don't want to exceed 14.2V at any RPM or that will over time kill your battery.
Maybe that is what killed the last one?
Some battery chemistries are less sensitive to over voltage than others but none of them enjoy being cooked up!
Cheers,
Mike

Hmmm, thanks. Those readings were very close as of course the reading at 3k rpm was bouncing a little. I tried to keep the rpm as steady as possible. I will have to recheck all of those things with the head light on this time. Perhaps you're right, but I looked over and tested everything. Also changed the rectifier. I think I just got a new crap battery. It's hard to tell, when buying off the internet or anywhere else for that matter. How long these batteries sit without being properly monitored, before we buy them. Next time, I'll know better. I'll take the time to properly test it. Before using it for the first time. If it doesn't pass. It goes back. The one I bought, had a one year warranty and we'll see today if they stand up to it when I give them a call. If not, everyone will hear about it. The battery from the get go introduced my problem. But, I thought it was the result of a brighter modern headlight I had recently installed. I wonder what batteries are made to withstand a slight over voltage as you stated ?

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Anything over 15 volts will be cooking the battery if its a constant voltage. Try the test with head light on high beam just to see how much it pulls the voltage down.
Thats why I like to upgrade to electronic regulators, they are very accurate and more stable compared to the mechanical points type, plus at around $60.00 its a good price.
An old fashioned lead acid battery can take a lot of abuse and if something is over charging you can notice it immediately by the water levels dropping often.

[motorpsycho]

Anything over 15 volts will be cooking the battery if its a constant voltage. Try the test with head light on high beam just to see how much it pulls the voltage down.
Thats why I like to upgrade to electronic regulators, they are very accurate and more stable compared to the mechanical points type, plus at around $60.00 its a good price.
An old fashioned lead acid battery can take a lot of abuse and if something is over charging you can notice it immediately by the water levels dropping often.

Do you have a source for the regulator? Looking to upgrade the one on my 550....

[jabcb]

Oregon Motorcycle Parts has a modern voltage regulator for the triples.
Part VR3-SGT costs $53 @ http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/vregulators.html

The voltage at the battery is a somewhat higher than the voltage at the voltage regulator because of the wiring voltage drop.

The voltage regulator adjusts the alternator output to produce the correct voltage at the voltage regulator.
Oregon Motorcycle Parts says their voltage regulators are adjustable and are set for 14.2V

Battery manufacturer recommendations vary a bit.
For sealed batteries (maintenance free, AGM, …) some recommend a max charging voltage of 14.7V. Have seen a limit as high as 15V.

For best results, check the battery voltage with the new voltage regulator, a fully charged battery & the lights on. Rev the engine a bit to see how high the voltage goes. Then adjust the voltage regulator if the max charging voltage limit is exceeded.

[pearljam724]

I've ridden the bike for 2 straight days now with the new battery. Runs, flawlessly. It even, idles perfectly. Where as before, once I shut the choke off I would have to keep on the gas to bring it to idle eventually. It does not do that anymore. As soon as I shut the choke off, it idles immediately without much warm up time needed. I tested the battery today with the high beam on as suggested and it idles at 12.5 volts and 13 volts with the idle at 3k. I also called batterystuff.com in which I bought the new battery from. It had a 1 year warranty, but they only give refunds up to 30 days. Otherwise, it would have to be an exchange. I was going to exchange the battery for a new one if they allowed me. But, they were out of stock. For this reason I was expecting a lot of hassle. That wasn't the slightest case. I explained to the teller exactly how I tested the battery and he immediately agreed under the circumstances of the multimeter test that the battery did infact have a bad cell and he immediately refunded my money. He didn't even require the need to ship the battery back. As disappointed as I am, because I really wanted a sealed battery to protect my beautiful pipes. But, I figured out a way to make an effective little catch bottle for any possible acid over flow. They won my business back and I will continue to use them once they get another shipment in a few weeks. I highly recommend them to anyone.