1968 Cobra

Photos and progress of your restorations, even bikes you had but no longer own.

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oldjapanesebikes
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:For the oil level tube Ian has shown to work correctly, its open end would have to be at least as high as the engine oil pump cover and it will need a shrouded vent thats open to the atmosphere.
Correct - I was just curious where the static oil level was as it aids in confirming the mark on the dip stick I use. I suppose actually when the engine is running, the indicated level should be a lot lower as the clutch flings oil into the transmission where it would build up before over flowing the dam back to the clutch housing. Anyway - now I know. :wink:

Wheels are on, wiring is finished, engine is complete, so next up are the carbs and a few related bits of running gear plus the seat. I may be able to get it started when I'm back home in late July. 8)
Ian

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by Suzsmokeyallan »

Its looking good Ian, and as you rightly suggested its best to use a dipstick added into the oil cap. Its interesting to see just where the additional oil creates a new level setting in relation to the old level screw.
Two strokes, its just that simple.

69 Suz U70
69 Suz T500
72 Suz GT750 cafe
74 Suz TS250
74 Suz GTXVR project
75 Suz RE5
75 Suz GT750
76 Suz TS400
76 Suz GT750
81 Suz GSX1100
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by Bloop2 »

oldjapanesebikes wrote:Wheels are on
Did you go back to the original rims?
68 B100P x2
68 T500 Cobra x3
69 T500
70 T500 x2
74 T500
76 GT500
76 GT185 x2
81 GS650G x2
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

Bloop2 wrote:Did you go back to the original rims?
No I haven't Fred - I need to first get the old ones re-chromed first, which I suppose will not happen now till late this year or early next - budget constrained :roll: . As I mentioned, from one side the new ones look great - the other side is disappointing because of the lettering on the rim edge, so I've put the side with the lettering on the side stand side of the bike. That way, when its on the side stand the lettering isn't as obvious. Pity Suzuki did that, but live and learn. 8)
Ian

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by Bloop2 »

Takasago was bought out by RK EXCEL a long time ago (1989), and the Takasago logo no longer appears on the steel rims. All of the NOS rims you see for sale on Ebay as replacements for original equipment and sold as original Suzuki parts will be Excel rims. They will have the Excel logo on the rim. I thought I had posted this somewhere here before. They are made by Union Auto Parts in Thailand and this company makes Excel rims for everybody. I don't really have a choice in my selection, my front rim could be re-chromed but the rear would be way to much work to polish out the rust. I have other rear rims but they don't have the correct "date" code. I'm not overly concerned about the Excel logo on the rim, it's quite acceptable in a restoration these days. There will always be a few things that will be impossible to source like the original turn signals and the original brake and clutch levers. As with any NOS part still available from Suzuki, vendors and parts do change over the years.
68 B100P x2
68 T500 Cobra x3
69 T500
70 T500 x2
74 T500
76 GT500
76 GT185 x2
81 GS650G x2
04 DL1000
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

Bloop2 wrote:I thought I had posted this somewhere here before.
No worries Fred - you had mentioned it, so I walked in with my eyes open - I just hadn't realised that the logo WOULD BE SO BIG :D :D I'll use the rims on another project - they will not go to waste. 8)
Ian

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by argo1974 »

About using oil dipstick on T500: Kawasaki H1 500 dipstick drops right in.

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by GT750Battleship »

oldjapanesebikes wrote:
Bloop2 wrote:Did you go back to the original rims?
No I haven't Fred - I need to first get the old ones re-chromed first, which I suppose will not happen now till late this year or early next - budget constrained :roll: . As I mentioned, from one side the new ones look great - the other side is disappointing because of the lettering on the rim edge, so I've put the side with the lettering on the side stand side of the bike. That way, when its on the side stand the lettering isn't as obvious. Pity Suzuki did that, but live and learn. 8)
:lol: Hi,replaced my rear rim on my GT750 recently,due to a cracked rim,I got lucky when the wheel was re spoked,the large lettering on the side of the rim ended up on left hand side..as you say not really all that visible when bike on the side stand...!
Cheers,
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

argo1974 wrote:About using oil dipstick on T500: Kawasaki H1 500 dipstick drops right in.
Argo - so the bung is the same thread size and it just works as a direct replacement ? That's useful to know ! Thanks 8)
Ian

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by Suzsmokeyallan »

I'm wondering if you guys are looking for 100% authenticity with the oem rims, or will something superior suffice. I'm literally getting rid of the oem stock steel rims and using some 7000 series alloys instead with the same profile which are coincidentally cheaper than steel rims and also stronger and lighter.
This all came about because of the cost to have the oem steel ones rechromed and the cost of steel or s/s replacements.
Two strokes, its just that simple.

69 Suz U70
69 Suz T500
72 Suz GT750 cafe
74 Suz TS250
74 Suz GTXVR project
75 Suz RE5
75 Suz GT750
76 Suz TS400
76 Suz GT750
81 Suz GSX1100
86 Suz RG500x2
88 Hon CR500
93 Hon CBR900RR
98 Suz GSF1200x3
15 Kaw Ninja H2
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:I'm wondering if you guys are looking for 100% authenticity with the oem rims.
It is a balancing act of course, but within reason that is sort of the objective eh ? :lol: Are those the alloy rims you had to special order the spokes for ? If so, I question whether the all-in cost was really any cheaper or less effort. But I could be wrong. :wink:

Had to reorganise the garage a bit and had the Cobra outside today - this is how it looks at the moment. Still lots to do (like removing the tire sticker on the rear tire ! :oops: ), but it is coming along . 8)

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Ian

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by Suzsmokeyallan »

The problem with the oem spokes is that Suzuki cut a corner and it was not really the fault of the alloy rims I bought.
The replacement spokes I had made only had to have a double butted design. The difference now is that the shaft diameter at the nipples end is the same as that at the neck, which is the correct way to make a spoke.
Having stainless spokes are also the correct thing to use over simple zinc plated types. Considering the cost of rechroming the oem rims or buying decent new reproductions actually balanced out the cost of the spokes and alloy rims I bought for the upgrade.
Even if my retrofit is $50 to 80 dollars more per wheel at the worse, I still have a stronger and lighter rim with a higher quality spoke.
It all started with looking for some 2.50 width rear rims, and you know how those ideas can create new issues.
Two strokes, its just that simple.

69 Suz U70
69 Suz T500
72 Suz GT750 cafe
74 Suz TS250
74 Suz GTXVR project
75 Suz RE5
75 Suz GT750
76 Suz TS400
76 Suz GT750
81 Suz GSX1100
86 Suz RG500x2
88 Hon CR500
93 Hon CBR900RR
98 Suz GSF1200x3
15 Kaw Ninja H2
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:The difference now is that the shaft diameter at the nipples end is the same as that at the neck, which is the correct way to make a spoke. ..........it all started with looking for some 2.50 width rear rims, and you know how those ideas can create new issues.
Well - given this is the restorations thread :D it sounds like you got the wrong spokes, wrong rims and paid too much eh ? :wink: :wink: At the end of the day its whatever floats your boat - my plan is to re-install the correct rims and spokes mainly because I can. If I couldn't then then that would be another discussion (and also a different thread - not 'Restorations'). 8)
Ian

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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by Suzsmokeyallan »

OJB said
If so, I question whether the all-in cost was really any cheaper or less effort
In this case it was.
Two strokes, its just that simple.

69 Suz U70
69 Suz T500
72 Suz GT750 cafe
74 Suz TS250
74 Suz GTXVR project
75 Suz RE5
75 Suz GT750
76 Suz TS400
76 Suz GT750
81 Suz GSX1100
86 Suz RG500x2
88 Hon CR500
93 Hon CBR900RR
98 Suz GSF1200x3
15 Kaw Ninja H2
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Re: 1968 Cobra

Post by oldjapanesebikes »

Been playing with the Mk1 T500 fuel cock - this one had been butchered at some point in its life and as well Suzuki doesn't sell most of the consumable parts you need to repair them. In the photo below, the face seal item 1 is not available, but as Mikuni supplied other brands, I was able to use a Yamaha part (137-24523-00), and also could have used a Honda part (16955-268-020) as they appear to be interchangeable. items 2 and 3 are still available from Suzuki, the screen item 4 is not, neither are the filters (5). The small atmospheric vent gasket (item 6) was not listed by Suzuki but is the same as the Kawasaki part 92065-052 which is also not available, but which you sometimes see on eBay. The diaphragm item 7 can be re-manufactured by an outfit in Germany at this link. These are the same size as are used on the Suzuki J/K triples, although the pintel in the centre is shorter by about 1.5 mm so if you do go the re-manufacture route, make certain you get yours back, and not one that fits a triple. The o-ring on the pintel itself, item 8, I replace with a viton ring of the same size (and I use the Rick Best (H2Rick) method of using a bamboo chopstick to polish the seat that the o-ring seals to). The spring - item 9 is shorter than the ones used on the triples (to match the shorter pintel) and so are unique to the twins. Item 10 I'll get to in a minute.

Image

This fuel cock had been apart previously ( the screw heads were well rounded :lol: ) and someone had drilled out the check valve in the back plate. Till a year or so ago I hadn't realised there was a valve in these - Allan Tucker (Suzsmokeyallan) mentioned it to me in passing as we were talking about methods to get these vacuum valves to seal properly. I'm pointing to the check valve in this photo.

Image

Normally, if the check valve working, if you gently blow or suck on the vacuum line connection you can hear the valve click, plus when blowing it should shut and not allow you to easily blow through the valve. On bikes that have been sitting for years, these check valves set up (corrosion and in one case of mine a spider nest) and get stuck. If you have one handy, look at the hole I'm pointing at in the photo and you will see there is a small - less than 0.5mm - restriction hole visible. On this fuel cock, the check valve had actually been drilled out completely with roughly a 1/8 drill. I suspect the effect this would have is that the fuel cock would be slamming open and closed as there is a lot of pulsation at the carburettor inlets on 2 strokes, which in turn would have affected fuel delivery. As this valve was messed up anyway I took it apart to see what the internals looked like.

In the photo below, the cavity the arrow is pointing to holds the valve. You first have item 3 which is a small rubber gasket, then item 2 which is a small brass plug which normally would have a restriction orifice of about 0.5mm in it. This plug slides into the brass housing item 1, the head of which is what you can normally see when you look at the inside of the back plate. I have a box full of J/K fuel cocks for GT750's - some are working correctly and others are seized up - on this one for the T500, item 2 was actually seized in the barrel (item 1) whether from having been mutilated or corrosion is difficult to say. If the valve is seized the fuel cock should still work - although probably would be slow to open and so restrict fuel flow initially. And if the orifice is plugged with spider web or something else, it won't readily open at all and so starve the engine of fuel.

I released the brass barrel that holds the valve plug by using a Dremel to relieve the punch marks holding it so I suspect that it may be possible to actually repair these in those cases where you want to maintain the originality.

Image

Anyway - on to other problems ! 8)
Ian

If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
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