another plug question? sorry!

[tz375]

Back to the plug question for a moment, do people realize that modern Unleaded fuel does not burn the same way as leaded? Unleaded has a different chemical mix and tends to leave more carbon on the plug regardless of whether the bike is lean or rich.

And plug reading is really only any good for WOT high load conditions. Under normal conditions it doesn't tell you much and without an accurate color giude for the fuel and oil combo, it's all a bit of a guess.

[pearljam724]

Great point Tz. Eddie, I double checked my jets for you. These are the correct ones. They are small round. You just need to scroll down on the left and select the size you would like to advance to. If you buy two different sizes they will combine shipping. I would suggest buying the next 2 sizes up from stock if you decide to keep the pods. http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carbur ... _round.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[tz375]

Good point PJ about buying a couple of sizes.

When we ran the Phat Trakka on the dyno, it ran really lean with two different exhausts systems - OEM and Jemco and UNI 6" long filters. It was interesting to see the Air:Fuel chart look so lean and yet the plugs looked a little rich. That was with 117.5 main jets.

Last night I ran the bike hard with 125s and they were probably one size rich for the conditions based on how the bike felt and the datalogger AFR readings. I'd guess that 117.5 or 120 mains would be fine with pods and with the needles raised one clip position or possibly two to be safe.

I hate wasting fuel but I figure that it's cheaper than pistons

[Eddie]

WOW thank you all for the info!!!! really appreciate the help!!! im going to refit the original airbox and see what happens but 1st I have to wait for the boots to come in, and who knows it might be just right with the stock box or I might need to go down 1 size? not sure, or I will still need to go up? I will see, also thank you for the info on them being small round!! I hate taking carbs off just to check stuff like that , I dont mind taking them off if I have replacement parts... also I noticed the my stock box has bad end rubbers, that seal the chrome ends and it also has bad foam inside so its going to take a while for me to put it on, im going to strip it down and have it powder coated ( i have a friend that powder coats small parts) then I have to make some rubber ends and find some good weather stripping(foam) to put inside. Thank you all for the help!!!! it is very much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pearljam724]

Good point PJ about buying a couple of sizes.

When we ran the Phat Trakka on the dyno, it ran really lean with two different exhausts systems - OEM and Jemco and UNI 6" long filters. It was interesting to see the Air:Fuel chart look so lean and yet the plugs looked a little rich. That was with 117.5 main jets.

Last night I ran the bike hard with 125s and they were probably one size rich for the conditions based on how the bike felt and the datalogger AFR readings. I'd guess that 117.5 or 120 mains would be fine with pods and with the needles raised one clip position or possibly two to be safe.

I hate wasting fuel but I figure that it's cheaper than pistons

I agree. Or a cylinder rebore, etc. And it's not like these bikes are fuel efficient to begin with. I selected 117.5 for my rebuild having the stock air box, stock filter and Higgspeeds ( Which I know you don't like, lol ! ). I suggested to Eddie the 2 sizes in between based on his very slight lean condition. Just like you stated. From my point of view, I'd prefer slight rich over slight lean. 117.5 may be too rich for his situation and hardware. But, that's why it's best to have a couple different sizes on hand to take it one way or the other. Do you think in my condition, I should raise my clips too or would it be safe to wait ? I've read that guys with same set up have not raised their clips. I'm 2 or 3 months from fire up. Coming along much sooner than I expected. Im so excited, lol !

[pearljam724]

Eddie, fix the air box seals and boots first. Before you buy or install any jets. A leak in either place will cause a leaner condition. If you buy and install the jets first, followed by fixing the seals and boots. You will be running in circles getting the air/fuel mixture correct. Fixing the seals and boots should get you back to the correct Air/Fuel mixture with stock jetting without having to install slightly bigger jets. Buy a dense rubber or foam weather stripping. Cut it to the correct width, thickness and lengths. Then fasten it with contact cement. Don't cut it too thick or thin. You'll continue to be lean or you'll never get the covers back on. Lol !

[Eddie]

Thanks for the tip on fixing the airbox 1st, I replaced the boots between the carbs and the jugs , now im just waiting for the boots between carbs and airbox. I had one other question, or maybe 2, 1st is I had talked with a guy who supposedly knows these bikes and he recommended going up to 115 jets, but on all three cylinders? I was going to go up (if i need to) , from 110/ 107.5 to the next size which I think was 112 on the left and right and I was going to go to 110 on the center cyl. so it would be 112/110/112 since the center cyl. is jetted different anyway, but he said just jet them the same all the way across? what do you guys do? I have stock exhuast and soon to have stock airbox. The other question is , i took the bike for a ride yesterday and I noticed after the ride there was a sign of some type of fluid (not sure what) right at the edge of the starter cover on the left side, I hope the water hose that goes under there didnt spring a leak? its a new hose and i know it was tight before I put everything back together , if its not the hose where else can radiator fluid come from right there?

[pearljam724]

You're welcome. It's perfectly fine and safe to have same jet size across all cylinders like your friend suggested. I would wrap one lap of Teflon tape around the threads for the 2 hose connections at the starter cover and bottom of thermostat. If you didn't wrap those threads when you reinstalled the new hose. It could be leaking there as a result. The boots between the carbs and airbox usually last a very long time. Unlike the other set of boots because there is much more heat. Unless, yours is very hard. You may not need to replace that second set of boots. I know mine were still soft enough. But, the carb to cylinder boots were rock hard.