t500 shift armfor rearsets?
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t500 shift armfor rearsets?
Hi, does anyone know how many teeth the shift arm should have? i can't seem to count the teeth, my eyes are not good enough. i got rearsets that are universal but need a shift arm to attach the linkage to. thanks
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
Hi Mik....we buy a little splined section and weld a bit to it, which we attach our operating arm to.
The rough bit at the bottom is not teeth.....it's just a metal burr where it was drilled through for the pinch bolt.
The rough bit at the bottom is not teeth.....it's just a metal burr where it was drilled through for the pinch bolt.
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
thanks, nice photo! looks like i will just cut the stock shifter and weld the linkage rod onto that. thanks
- tz375
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
That's what we usually do. Take an old shift lever and cut off most or all of teh lever part, leaving the splined boss and maybe a short length of shift lever. Weld on a short piece of 1" x 1/8" fflat steel and trim to a nice shape. Dill a 6mm hole and weld in a suitable stud or screw (thread pointing out) to bolt the shift rod heim joint to.
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
I believe you can pick up one for almost any year GSXR off ebay - the splines are the same.
Jim
Jim
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
Jim is right. I think all Suzukis share the same size splines for the gear change. When we first started building rearsets, we were buying all the old step thru pedals we could find, as even these are the same !
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
cut my stock shifter apart with the angle grinder. there seems to be a problem with exhaust clearance if i want to have a standard shift pattern. race shift looks like it will be fine but there does not seem to be room to mount the rod on the bottom of the shift arm.
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
Mik....the operating arm from your splined gear shaft needs to come upward to maintain the stock shift pattern, if the rod connecting it to the gear lever is above the gear lever at the other end. You can keep 1 down 4 up, if the rod is below at both ends. Problem with this, is that you need underslung pipes as the mechanism cannot clear a pipe along the side. This is why we use the little splined section pictured above...it's easy to weld an angle on top of it, shape it round at the top, then as another poster said, drill a 6mm hole and bolt an M6 rose joint to it.
Hope this makes sense !
Hope this makes sense !
Last edited by titan performance on Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
i think i am confused- lol. i am going to have to have a close look at this tomorrow and get back to you. thanks!
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
I'll take some pics tomorrow which will make it all clear, and post them tomorrow evening.....
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
Different bike, same solution.

Shift lever was cut and welded and modified and is now that short link, but you could use a GSXR arm as well.

Shift lever was cut and welded and modified and is now that short link, but you could use a GSXR arm as well.
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
In TZ's pic above, you can see the operating rod is above the gear shaft and the footpeg, which maintains the 1 down 4 up set up. This is not too easy to do on the 500, due to the shape of the sprocket case, and the travel of the kick starter. We use a little splined section as pictured above, and weld an angle onto it. The operating rod can be connected to this piece, but it is tight with the kick starter.
We have made a gear pedal with the operating rod below the foot peg and gear change shaft, as below, but this cant be used with "up the side" pipes, though it still maintains the stock shift pattern.
We have made a gear pedal with the operating rod below the foot peg and gear change shaft, as below, but this cant be used with "up the side" pipes, though it still maintains the stock shift pattern.
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Re: t500 shift armfor rearsets?
had a friend weld a tab onto the cut off shifter. looks like i will have to run a race pattern- my linkage runs from the bottom of the rearsets and there is no room under the shift arm so it has to go on top. oh well, should be easy to get the hang of. thanks for the photos!