I have a 1975 GT250 Hustler.
I'm having a hard time adjusting the timing on the left side point. I can move the plate through the whole limit of its travel and the point gap will never close with the timing marks lined up. I have a feeling that these points are not the correct ones. The only picture I have is one that is a drawing and the points in the drawing dont look like mine.
It has been noted before that aftermarket points (made by Daichi, etc) have a fibre heel that is not the correct length, which causes fun and games when trying to set timing. The way around this is to use a needle / rat-tail file to elongate the point adjustment slot a little. This widens the range of adjustment
1976 GT380 - wounded by me, and sold on
2006 SV650S - killed by a patch of diesel and a kerb in Feb 2019
2017 SV650 AL7 - naked and unashamed
To respond to Doug, Yea right I meant open, I have the plate as low as it will go and the points open approx, 3/16" advanced or before the line marked L on flywheel reaches the line on the plate.Thats probably to advanced to run correctly??? I do have the points set to .014. I had replys saying the right side points dont look correct, but that side I also have set at .014 but had no trouble timing to have points open just before or right at the timing marks. I'm using a test light to get the exact point of change.
Last edited by Oldschool on Sun May 13, 2012 5:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
Just to give you some history. My brother is WAVEHOG33 and he has posted on this bike. He actually bought this bike and I picked it up for him, but it was so nice and he has so many bikes I just couldnt let it go!!! But there is a gremlin living in it. Mostly charging issues. So repaired replaced some things, but was told that points can play into the charging side. So I checked them out. Both points were set wrong, left was set at .005 and the right was just a tad more than that. Timing was way off also. Bike ran for what seemed ok but just didnt have the spunk I thought it should have?? I will more than likely replace the points anyway, just not sure what the "real ones" look like?? These old ones are providing some good training.
Thanks, thats the same pictue I have, I've checked parts lists and pictures and what I have seem to be or look right. Maybe I need to just file out the adjusting holes as another mentioned to give more movement.
On the T250, the right & left points are the same, as shown in the T250/T350 shop manual.
On the GT250, the right & left points are different & have different part numbers.
If its running adequately, it might be worth testing the alternator before fixing the points. If the alternator is bad & you swap it out for another alternator, then you'll have to set the points & timing again.
Wiring diagram is here: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=4743
Alternator specs are on 15 page of (see T250 #s):http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/suzidata1.htm
Tests:
1) Resistance between Y/G & each of the three other wires should be near zero.
2) Resistance between R/G & ground should be infinite (open circuit).
3) Test open-circuit alternator voltage with the alternator disconnected & the bike running. (Set multimeter to AC & at least 100V)
Check Y/G to R/G, Y/G to G, and Y/G to G/W.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
Just looking at that photo I can see the left point set is too far back in the adjustment slot so its going to be slightly open on the cam all the time set like that.
The slotted holes are usually always centred when its all set up correctly so if you are off by a large amount something is not set correctly given the points are the correct ones.
If the points are the Daichi type, slotting the holes can work and if the point heel is too tall, filing the heel down SQUARELY can also work if it needs shortening.
It looks to me that the left points are open when the cam is facing the right points. In that position, the left points should be closed as Allan pointed out.
If that's the case, the timing will never be right. It's possible that we are misreading the picture. Please confirm if the points actually close as the cam (crank) is rotated and what the gap is when the points are fully open.
Well I'm no expert with points!! But here's the way I did it. I rotated the crank so the right point block was on the highest part of the cam. Set the opening at .014. Then rotated the cam to the left and did the exact same thing, put the point block on the highest point of the cam and set to .014. Then using a test light to see when the points open, rotated the crank again and used the timing window to line up the marks. I have the light going out just before the flywheel line hits the mark on the plate.Did the same with the left side but never can get the flywheel mark close to the mark on the plate. Seems way advanced. I would think there should be equal travel between advanced and retarded timing. In fact the left plate I used a dremmel tool to make the adjustment opening longer. I still have the points opening roughly 3/16" before the mark. Not sure where I'm going wrong??? Do my steps seem right? By the way, I got the charging system good to go. Replaced the battery and rectifier. Now getting 14v at 3000rpm with light on and off. So atleast I can cross that off the list. One new problem is I think the crank seal seals are going bad. Pretty sure I'm loosing crankcase oil to the firing process..Thanks for everyones input on these troubles I'm having!!
You were going correct in your posting but I would never file the plate slots. Always make the points fit the engine plate, never the other way around.
That left point set is open in the photo and the cam is facing the other side which means its never closing. It must close in that position off of the cam, so centre the moving plate those points are on in the screw slots and lock it there then see where it opens on that cylinders timing marks when the came faces those points.
Try to adjust the points themselves by the one set screw that moves them only and not the ones that move the whole plate.
Basically they should just begin to open at the timing mark as you've been trying to do but they must also close fully when off the cam lobe.
But if you look at the photo the cam hasent rotated far enough yet for the left point block to ride to the lowest part of the cam. When the left is at the lowest the right is at the highest part of the cam??? If I were to rotate the crank just a bit the left point would close. Take a look, Do you see what I mean. As far as adjustment screws, I only have the one for adusting the opening of the points, which the points sit on a round key from the backside which makes them stay in spot and the screw just adjust how far the opening is. The other two screws allow the plate the point is screwed to ,to move or rotate up or down for timing purpose. The left and right plates are separate. They say to set the points first and then time it. I must be missing something or not understanding this..??
