Adjusting timing on GT380

[digitalintrospect]

I have had a lot of really great help on this forum. If it wasn't for you, my vintage bike wouldn't be so close to being on the road!

All I have to do know is adjust the timing and the points which I plan on doing today.
I have a pretty good idea how to set the points, but it is the timing I am confused about.

I do have a manual that explains how to adjust the timing plate, but where I am lost is how to actually set it.
I see a window that allows me to see past the plate and to the fly wheel, but I don't understand how to line it up.

If there are any other online resources you could share? That would help me out a lot.

Thank you!

[jabcb]

See service bulletin #119 for instructions on adjusting timing.
http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/techb ... 0mc119.pdf
Its recommended that you put the bike in sixth gear & turn the rear wheel.
Never rotate the crank by means of the 14mm nut on the point cam -- doing this can ruin the nylon timing gear.

What manual do you have?

[Coyote]

I don't have a 380, but I think it is very similar to the 550. The first thing to do is gap all the points. This is done before timing is set. Find the highest point on the cam and adjust each set by loosening screw 'A'. Adjust all 3 sets to 012 - .016 gap. I use a .012 as a go and a .016 as a no go. After these are all gaped correctly, now it's on to the set the timing. You will need a battery operated light, a buzzer or an ohmmeter to see when the points break. Believe me, you can't see it visually.
OK, first attach the meter or lamp to the moving point arm on the left set and the other to ground. Line up the 'L' on the3 armed propeller to the mark on the casting. Slightly loosen the 3 screws that hold the points plate in place. Rotate the entire plate left or right till the points just break. Tighten the screws. Go around again and make sure the points break exactly on the 'L' mark. Adjust as necessary.
Now it's time to set the center and right points. The method is the same except you will loosen screws 'B' and rotate the points themselves to get them to break at the right time with the casting marks. Always double check as stuff has tendency to move when tightened down. You're done!
A word to the wise. A very good flat head screwdriver is needed. There are slots provided all over the place to aid in positioning the points. I also use a flat head to tighten stuff up as a phillips tends to chew things up. Hope this helps.
This is a Denso unit, but the steps are exactly the same for a Kokusan ignition.

[tz375]

Coyote,

Awesome reply. I don't even have a 380 and I'm going to keep a copy of that reply - just in case.