GT550 Cafe project

[imquattro]

I made the exact same mistake, I didn't like the white ring at the gauge top so I painted it black. So what's the mistake? The white ring is what diffuses the light on the the gauge face. Now I really can't see them in the dark

Which white ring are you referring to? Exterior color shouldn't effect internal lighting.

[Coyote]

I said white but I meant clear. The black pointer depicts the area I am talking about. If you paint that black as it appears you have, no light will get to the gauge face.

[imquattro]

I guess I'll have to "see it" (or not) to believe it.
The whole inside of the housing was wiped out of paint and is white. There's no picture of that but I did make sure it wasn't black like the exterior, or as you said, no light will reflect up to the gauge.

[imquattro]

Slow day today on the bike.
I'm not happy with high the stock position of the gauges. The gauges are right in your face/line of sight -especially with the new riding position and a set of dropped bars.





And since I'm going to be lowering the headlight (also too high imo), I'll have room to drop the gauges down.
So I was looking at how to do this...
I decided that essentially extending the point of attachment to the headstock would do the trick.
The two shouldered studs w/ nuts on them are what fit up through the grommets on the headstock.


I basically knocked them out and replaced them with a set of bolts of longer length. So I positioned them over a socket in a vice and knocked them loose.








Using a set of 8x100x1.25 bolts and 3 nuts (and relational washers) on each bolt, I set the bolts into the gauge bracket.
Using a set of the nuts & washers near the top of threads (facing up) as stops, the larger diameter bolt fits snuggly through the grommet on the headstock and a top shouldered nut and washer compress the grommet, capturing and securing the gauge bracket tightly.

Here it is after a coating of paint.

The gauges are nicely in position now.
Before (LEFT) and after (RIGHT)

[drøn]

I just lowered my gauges by removing the bolts as you did and then just flip the bracket. A bit neater imho.

[imquattro]

I just lowered my gauges by removing the bolts as you did and then just flip the bracket. A bit neater imho.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Genius^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I just did that in addition to what I already did (wanted more drop).
Nice idea!

[imquattro]

Got some new goodies this past week:

UNI angled filter pods:


Engine's soon coming back off the bench! Hopefully this week we'll get it mounted back in the frame for good. (can't wait!!)

The stock headlight location and mounts were way too high and since I wanted to lower the gauges, I picked up a set of ears that allow me to drop the position of the light down a bit.




These are on the bench...

[Suzukidave]

I always check the last post update to follow along , just now i went back to page 1 to see what you started with and i can give you and your class a huge pat on the back for doing a great job bringing this ole girl back from what you started with

[imquattro]

Thanks! It has been quite a process.

[imquattro]

I really like the naked, open cross section behind the motor (no side covers covering all sorts of stuff I now need to hide).

SO:

Any suggestions/links/pictures on how to wire tuck & hide the rectifier, regulator, starter relay etc assembly?
I'm running low on ideas.
My first thought is to hide it under the tail of the rear seat (yet to be made) along with the oil tank (also yet to be made).
But then what are my battery options?
Just asking for some suggestions.

Thanks so much!
Maybe something like this w/o the battery tray (I'm going w/ a micro battery -any suggestions there too??)

[Coyote]

That fuse block is throwing me. Suzuki didn't start splitting the circuits till 78. On the oil tank, I don't think you'll be able to hide everything. Have the shop build a nice aluminum one (triangular) that fits where the top rail meets the rear upright. There used to be a link on here to a site that sold aluminum bottles and a few were made out of those. I did a Google search but didn't turn up too much, unless you want a keg. lol. You might try YouTube. Every time I go on there I get side tracked.

[imquattro]

That fuse block is throwing me.

Lol, that's because its from either a Yamaha or Honda as per this page (the source of the picture):

[imquattro]

That fuse block is throwing me.

Lol, that's because its from either a Yamaha or Honda as per this page (the source of the picture):
http://www.benjiescaferacer.com/battery-box.php

[tz375]

How about a Triton/Manx Norton type oil tank fitted centrally with a battery tray? Not literally of course, but as an idea. It's what Coyote was saying about a triangular tank, but make it so that it also forms the fender and has a battery tray in it. You need a big enough battery to not cook it. Old regulators and modern LiPo batteries don't make good bed fellows.

With a black (read inconspicuous) battery, mounted down low in the triangle, electrics in a tray between the rails under the seat and a suitable oil tank between the rear down tubes it could be very neat. The tank only needs to hold a couple of liters, so it could be made of steel, black powder coated and slipped between the rear down tubes to look like a 1" thick fender. Check the dimensions but that would be basically invisible, it would be functional as a tank and fender and you could slip in an RD400/Polaris et al oil level warning switch.

[CJF]

One idea is to mount a Shorai lithium battery (less than half size and weight of stock) between the rear upper shock mounts. I made up a battery box and mounted mine there. On the GT500 frame, you can't see it at all from the side view. For the electrics and oil tank it gets a little more complicated. Fab up a tank that can fit under your seat or to Richards idea, between the rear frame rails. Any chance to make a part serve two purposes is a great idea in my book.