GT550 Cafe project

[imquattro]

The tank is still with my buddy the body guy -sore subject- but it's not really needed -yet, getting close, so I'll have to put some pressure on him.

I also youtube and google 2 stroke triples running/racing to get me motivated -can't wait to hear mine run.

I'll probably be sending out next week for the gauges to be printed.

[Suzukidave]

gage1 audio (gj) KEY

NOUN:

Something deposited or given as security against an obligation; a pledge.
Something, such as a glove, that is offered or thrown down as a pledge or challenge to fight.
A challenge.

TRANSITIVE VERB:
Archaic gaged, gag·ing, gag·es

To pledge as security.
To offer as a stake in a bet; wager.

[imquattro]

Also I still have an interest in those white gage faces for the later gages.

As you may know, the '72 GT550's have slightly a different layout & numbering on the gauges compared to the later GT550's.
The latter has much to do w/ the pod layout and addition of gear selection display and upper display.
The '72 has the "N" and "B" lights in the tachometer, the speedometer's numbers increase by 20's w/ 4 tick marks between each 10mph increment, and it also stops numbering at 140mph.
There are probably smaller details I'm missing at the moment but those are the big ones.

I had the white faced gauges made after the '72's layout and turns out I'm using the '74 set anyways.
Sigh.

Turns out, the spacing of the gauges tach & mph are exactly the same, just a few differences.
Well, I just spent about an hour working in Inkscape http://www.inkscape.org on the '72's gauges, changing them to match (almost) the '74's.

So, in the end. I have a set of both early and late model GT550 gauge faces.
The only thing I didn't address was to decrease the number of tick marks between mph marks. The '74 has only one mark (5mph between each 10mph increase). I'm not too familiar with InkScape and don't know how to remove the vectoring for the current tick marks and replace them with the correct spacing of the later model's.

Here's a screen shot of the '72 (LEFT) and the '74's (RIGHT).

[titan performance]

In agreement with Coyote.....a really nice thread, kept interesting with plenty of pics.
Some good looking work on the bike too.....the engine unit looks a picture !
Really looking forward to seeing how it all comes together now.

[imquattro]

Thanks guys! It's been a long project (for me, as I like to finish something as much as start something) and still going strong.
I know I'm not doing everything perfectly and/or correctly, but my excuse is:
A) lack of $
B) lack of time
C) Refer to A
D)Greater desire to finish it rather than futz with every little bit
E)All the above.

I'm going with a set of adjustable 35mm clipons and that means.... I'm not using the stock headlight mounting ears so that means.... I can't use the gaiter boots on the front forks.... which means, I need to use the tube dust boots off the '74.

So after painting the upper and lower head stock from the '72, cleaning and greasing the 36 balls, and assembling it onto the frame, I realized that I like the way the top of the '74's terminates with a plug that presses into the neck over the retaining nut instead of a bolt (mines been hammered on by a PO).
So, after knocking out the old bent and screw-stripped lock assembly, it was off to the degreaser, beadblaster, and prep for paint.
Out came the '72's lower neck, off came the lower balls.
Sigh... out of paint. Guess I'll have to finish that another day.

I did finish polishing up the mounting bolts for the engine-to-frame, and also the axels for the wheels.
Here's just a poor example of the before and after for one engine mounting bolt:


We also cleared the rear hub assembly (right brake cover & left sprocket mount), and bead blasted the rear sprocket, primed and painted it. I know the chain will eat the paint off the teeth, but the rest doesn't need to rust!

OH, and I did send the files out to the shop for production of the white-face gauges. I sent both the early and late model designs. I should hear back from them tomorrow as to how they came out. They should be simply peel and stick, with the edges, screw holes, needle holes, light, miles, and odometer holes all pre-cut. Simply peel off and apply to old gauge's face.
I just need to get my 3" glass cut for my gauge and get them ready for pre-assembly.

Not many pictures today, maybe more soon.

[wvc]

Sorry to bring up the tires again but....
I've put a lot of tires on a lot of suzuki GT 2 strokes, and for 18" rears, I use a 130/90/18, and 19" fronts get a 100/90/19. I've also spoke with the guy I get all my tires from, that has specialized in motorcycle tires for 30 years, he agrees those are fine sizes for the OEM width wheels. It may be a little different for you road racers, but for street riding, these are fine.

As for Kenda Challenger's, I have found that the actual tread width runs a little wider, and can make a for a tight fit compared to stock tires, or other brands. I've never had them not fit on a GT bike, but have seen them be a little close on the GS Suzuki's. I personally like to stick with the "vintage" tread design tires on my Suzuki 2 strokes, but a lot of guys like the Kenda's because of their low cost.

Just my 2 cents. Feel free to bash away, I have thick skin.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Well, I just spent about an hour working in Inkscape http://www.inkscape.org on the '72's gauges, changing them to match (almost) the '74's.

Just spent some time looking at the InkScape site - thanks for tip ! Looks like the possible solution to a problem I have.

[ja-moo]

Sorry to bring up the tires again but....
I've put a lot of tires on a lot of suzuki GT 2 strokes, and for 18" rears, I always use a 130/90/18, and 19" fronts get a 100/90/19. That is the original sizes put on by Suzuki. I've also spoke with the guy I get all my tires from, that has specialized in motorcycle tires for 30 years, he agrees those are fine sizes for the OEM width wheels.

I don't know a lot about the Suki's, (thought I did have a 550 for a while) and this didn't sound correct. I looked up the tire sizes for the 550, and stock was 3.25" (82.55mm) front and 4.00" and 101.6mm". So stock is quite a bit thinner than what you stated of 100mm (3.94") front and 130mm (5.12") rear.

I could not find the rim widths, and would guess they are comperable to the Kawis at 1.85" front and 2.15" rear for the size the factory put on. The front can barely support the 100 width, and 120 is pushing it on the 2.15". So that's just a educated guess.

As was said, a mild riding style may not show any problems...............

[Coyote]

I could not find the rim widths, and would guess they are comperable to the Kawis at 1.85" front and 2.15" rear

Yes the GT550 rim widths are the same. 1.85 and 2.15.

[imquattro]

Rear wheel lubed & assembled today.





It's been a while since I took it apart and so I assembled it using this link: http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/gt/manuals/gt ... 550-63.htm
My concern is that there are threads of the axle shaft in the chain adjuster area on the sprocket side. Is that right? or do I have a spacer improperly placed? It's assembled exactly as pictured on that link.
If I list the items in from the nut on the sprocket side its ordered like this:
Nut
Washer
Chain adjuster
Spacer (approx 15mm long)
Seal
Bearing
Stepped Spacer
Bearing inside rear hub
Spacer tube inside rear hub
Bearing inside rear hub
Large spacer (approx 80mm long)
Chain adjuster
End of axle.

I just didnt' expect the threads to be bearing any load, maybe the concern will clear up when it's assembled.

[tz375]

WVC,
It's a moot point for the moment, but I could not locate a tire fitment guide for those tires.

I checked AVON roadriders and Bridgestone BT45 and they say.

AVON
100/ 90-19 2.50 recommended but can use on 2.15 - 2.75
130/80-18 2.75 rim recommended, but can use on 2.50 -3.50

BT45
100/90-19 2.50 recommended but can use on 1.85 - 2.75
100/80 1.85 - 2.75
110/80 2.15 - 3.00
130/80-18 3.00 recommended, can use 2.50-3.50

That doesn't necessarily follow that Kenda uses the same sized rims for their tires, but that's what two manufacturers suggest/recommend.

My bike has BT45s, 100/80 up front on a 2.5 rim and 130/80 on a 3.00 at the rear and and they both look a little pinched. What anyone uses is up to them and maybe those are less wide than AVON or Bridgestone. Your tire guy should know.

[Coyote]

The wheel is assembled correctly. It will make more sense when you mount the wheel in the swing arm. There is no load on the chain adjusters. All the load is on the axle and bearings once the axle is tightened up.
Maybe it's an illusion, but that sprocket looks small. Stock sprockets are 16/40. I started out with 15/40 figuring it would give a good hole shot. In reality, all it did was make first gear pointless. So I uped it to 16 in the front. MUCH better

[imquattro]

Maybe it's an illusion, but that sprocket looks small. Stock sprockets are 16/40. I started out with 15/40 figuring it would give a good hole shot. In reality, all it did was make first gear pointless. So I uped it to 16 in the front. MUCH better

The rear sprocket is a 40-530 and the front has 16 teeth.
So.... sounds like I'm good?
They do say the color black has a "slimming or minimizing" effect...

[imquattro]

Gauge decals are done!
I got eight sets of each design (early and late).
I'll post pictures of them when I pick them up & test fit them.

[imquattro]

Finally got the chassis rolling today.
After the students left, I assembled the front drums & linkage (will have to be calibrated when cables are attached).
Ended up going with the early style lower head stock but later style dust seals on the front fork tubes.

The wheels & axles are still loose and just snug enough to roll it around the shop. The torque struts aren't even attached yet.


The handle bars are the stockers flipped upside down. Not sold on the look as I'd like to go w/ clipons but they work for now, and may sell me on the stock concept as it WOULD allow to keep the front headlight & ear setup, which WOULD allow me to use the front gaiter boots.... hmm.....


Here are a few shots:




Rear shocks are stock and I haven't even touched them, they're temporary as I'm going for a set of these: