Oil leak under engine

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:46 am

Hi guys this is my first 76 gt750 and after running the engine or after riding the bike I get a good size oil puddle under the rear center of the engine,I have run the bike and watched but can't seem to find the leak..Has anyone ever had this problem??? Thanks Philip I guess I will have to remove the pipes to see the leak...

Cliff · Post by **Cliff** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 10:38 am

Is it transmission oil or injector oil?
If it's trans. oil, could be the oil seal on the waterpump is leaking.

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:14 am

Its trans oil,and if it is the waterpump seal how hard is that to replace? Also if it was the water pump seal would I get oil in my coolant??? Thanks.....

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:44 am

After running the bike I noticed the oil coming from the waterpump, how hard is that to fix??? Thanks for being patient with a newbie....

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 3:27 pm

The coolant is a pressurised system, so if the water pump oil seal is bad, then it will be coolant blowing out rather than oil. It is possible you have the crankcase over filled so I would check that first. If not, then there is a diagram of the water pump and breather at this URL. Take a read through the manual (at that link). It is possible to get the water pump out, but it can be a real pain. Elsewhere in this forum is a trick you can use to get the water pump out if it is really stuck, but you still have to get the impeller and clips off first which in themselves can be a trial. If you do try this, take your time and try not to force the impeller as they are easy to break and hard to replace.

Cliff · Post by **Cliff** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:03 pm

The air breather pipe (#14) in the waterpump diagram vents the space between the two seals. That space is vented to the atmosphere to allow for expansion/contraction of the water pump as the engine heats up and cools down. If one of the seals fail, either the oil seal or the mechanical seal, the breather pipe allows the fluid to escape before it can cross contaminate the other fluid.
If transmission oil is leaking out of the hole in the water pump cover, the water pump has to be resealed.

Cliff · Post by **Cliff** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:32 pm

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1956&start=0&hilit= ... mp+removal" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Here's the link to how to remove the water pump. I did this to my bike before Allen posted this and it works! The real bitch is getting the impeller and retaining ring out!
The oil seal, ball bearing and "o" rings you can get from any local bearing supplier, just give them the metric measurements and they should be able to supply. The mechanical seal (or ceramic seal) you'll have to get from someone who does water pumps. I got mine from: http://www.tvspumps.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . The sealing seat (part no. 17476-31000) will have to be replaced or machined flat and smooth again to reuse. The pump shaft (part no. 17461-31001) should be rechromed and ground to size in the sealing areas. http://www.tcchrome.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; did my machining work.
Suzuki part numbers and diagrams can be found here: http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Cliff.

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 1:33 am

Cliff - did you get a part number/supplier for the mechanical seal ? To quote a friend - enquiring minds need to know

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 5:42 am

Thanks for all the info!!!! So if I bought another waterpump assy and install it I should be ok?????

Cliff · Post by **Cliff** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:23 am

I'll look up the part nos. tomorrow when I get to work and post them later.
The mechanical seal is in two pieces but you can only use the half with the spring. The original seat will have to be machined and reused.
And yes, replacing the water pump as an assembly is another option. But for me, the challenge is in rebuilding the parts and having the satisfaction of knowing that I did it and it worked! Just like doing the crankshafts! I was told that it couldn't be done, that I needed special tooling etc.. I've done two GT550 cranks and the one in my GT750. The labour isn't the issue, finding the parts is! Those ball bearings are as rare as rocking horse crap.

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:33 am

Well people now my right cylinder is coming on and off has spark,just at idle it comes and goes,but while riding down the road it hits on all three cylinders,if I can't figure this out I am selling it..LOL

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:36 am

If I do end up selling the bike it has a NOS seat,new matching set of tires,nos throttle cables( both),a set of points and some other parts

Cliff · Post by **Cliff** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:39 am

Try changing the plugs first before you put the for sale sign up!!

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:43 am

I have swaped plugs cleaned the old points etc, I didn't have this misfire problem until after I took the battery out to charge,then put in bike and the right side cyl is misfiring,my new points will not be here until 2 weeks

Philip44 · Post by **Philip44** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:44 am

also when I bought the bike it hit on all three just sitting at idle

Oil leak under engine

Oil leak under engine

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