1972 Suzuki t500-looking for a little direction

[cyclebuster]

I would get a tap the same size, clean the hole out, and run the tap in as far as it will go. Then install a long stud, and washer and just snug it up, then tighten the other side down, it will pull on an angle and not likley come out. 'I change ALL bolted exhausts to studs, cylinders are too pricey to risk running bolts into aluminum 3-4 times.

[two-stroke-brit]

thats a good idea , i might try that and make some long domed nuts to tidy it up on the outside.
mark

[dfields82]

cyclebuster I am not exactly clear on what you are suggesting, any chance you could explain a little more in depth. Im thinking I might be a little more mechanically illiterate then I previously thought.

[cyclebuster]

a bolt threads its way in pulling the item in question tight, this action also wears the threads rapidly especially in aluminnum. A stud is a double threaded bolt. you install it like the bolt, but a threaded shank sticks out. You then put a nut and washer on it and tighten it. the advantages are you can use a stud that uses maximum depth, thereby being stronger in its pull. Also its easier to aligne the collars on usually, they just slip on the stud. In general, even though your bolt hole is ruined, there is usually threads at the bottom sufficient to hold the flanhe, but the bolt cannot reachit, and has taken valuable threads with it. Yu can also use chemical loking compounds, such as stud lock, to add furhter strength to a weakened hole. Also if you snug the suspect item first, and then tighten the known good bolt or stud, you get a small angle pull on the first bolt, adding to its grip on the side of the hole. Suzuki uses bolts on almost all the models of exhaust i have ever worked on, and i have put studs into every one of them. By tapping the hole, with a stock size tap, you may well find 3-5 threads on the bottom still good, more then sufficient to hold your pipe.
The longer stud allows you access to these deeper threads.

[dfields82]

thanks for the indepth info, I think I will now be replacing all my exhaust bolts with studs

[dfields82]

So the good news is it started,cleand the carbs, new battery, changed oil and it started right up. the left exhaust header showed a leak and some oil did come out but im hoping it is just from the oil I put in the cylinders, I got a little overzealous and put much more than a tablespoon in each. not sure if i mentioned but is first bike and I am ridiculously excited. I've started stripping it down and making a list of what I need to replace, brake lines and the like. I am taking the engine out tomorrow and am a bit overwhelmed. My plan is to replace all the easy to get to seals, (Should I do the headgasket if it seems ok?), clean everything up, do a bit of painting, check the electrical connections, brakes, all lines,and then put it all back together. I know its a broad question but any sort of advice? I'll try to post more pics soon

[dfields82]

I just stripped down my t500. What I believe is the shift fork shaft is bent, im under the impression that it needs to be straight. Is this something I can repair without cracking the case, is it indicative of other problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Im new to motorcycling and hoping to get this bike running by summertime. Also I will try to post some pics of what im talking about tomorrow

[dfields82]

its the rod that goes to the clutch cable, Im not really clear on what it does. Sorry the pics are so large, I couldnt figure out how to reduce the size

[advant63]

ouch!!
you're lucky if that was the only casualty. that rod passes through the case and pushes the clutch pressure plate.
was there any damage to the sprocket cover or release assembly?

[Coyote]

Sure enough, that rod should be straight. Probably caused by a ham fisted clutch adjustment of the PO. Any old rod won't do as these rods are hardened on the ends. Try to fnd a new one or a good used one.

[dfields82]

sorry, Im showing my ignorance here, Im guessing the sprocket cover is what covers all this stuff? and the release assembly is what the outer end of that rod slides into? If thats the case then those do not appear to be damaged. The bike shifted between first and neutral smoothly but had trouble getting any higher. The actual shifter was bent so it jammed up against cover.

[dfields82]

have a quick two part paint question. So I am waiting on some parts and have the bike stripped down to the frame. I need to strip the frame to prep for paint and was also going to strip the lower forks and paint them since the chrome is extremely bad. I have done a ton of searching and cant really find anything about stripping paint. Can I just clean with a degreaser and go at them with some sand paper? any advice would be greatly appreciated

[Coyote]

There is really only one way to do it IMO. Have the frame powder coated. They blast it clean in the prep. You need to mask the steering bearing area and the exhaust hanger bushings. By the time you buy all the stripper you need and a good quality paint there is not a huge cost difference and the only work you need to do is take the frame to the car wash and get every last bit of grease, oil, and road grime off of it. This keeps the powder coaters blast media from getting contaminated.

[dfields82]

that part that I posted has proven pretty difficult to come by. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to where to purchase that shaft that I am looking for. It is disontinued and I cannot find one on ebay. anyone here have one they would be willing to sell?

[jabcb]

Clutch push rod looks to be available via eBay.

If my part lookup is correct, then:
part #: 23111-15001 is no longer available from Suzuki.

GT500 used same part.

GT550 used 2 rods & one of them is the same.
part # 23111-15001 is 8mm x 138.5mm
part # 23111-34000 is 8mm x 189.5mm

Looks to be available for GT550 on eBay:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... m270.l1313
Am not sure which rod two of the listings are selling -- would need to make sure you are getting the correct one.

Please confirm that this is correct.
(No guarantees -- have found what I think were part manual errors in the past.)

Good luck.