oil pump bleeder bolt and bubbles in lines

[CJF]

Thanks for the info Fred. Look forward to hearing any updates you have.

I received the two Polaris check valves today. Good news...they are 6MM, so the stock Suzuki banjo bolts will work. The banjo portion is a little thicker between the two washers, but not so thick that the stock bajo bolts can't be used.

I need to find the right size clear hose (think is it 1/8 or something real small) and waiting on the Mikuni pump check valve (the one coming from the pump) to arrive. I Don't have anything to check the cracking PSI, so i think I may put a different color 2 stroke oil on the lines before installing and then watch to make sure the oil is flowing when the bike is running. I'll leave the stock line on one side and try these on the other and compare. I have seen a few options on a kawasaki 2 stroke forum to test the cracking psi, but I don't have a lot of extra time right now to fabricate a tool that will help perform the test. If anyone has a simple idea on how to test it off the bike, please let me know.

[CJF]

I received the used Mikuni oil pump off a 1985 ski Doo(ebay for $15). It has the 2 banjo's coming off the pump that I need for the oil line setup. The banjo's are 6MM and should work well with the stock T500 bolts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400340856549?ss ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The outlet of the banjo's where the line attaches is slightly small diameter than the Polaris check valve ends, but hoping I can use the same size hose to fit both. I still need to get the hose, a 2 into 1 fitting and some small lightweight hose clamps.

[CJF]

Made up the new lines. I'm using 1/8 tygon tube, Polaris check valves, y splitter and the original banjo from the old line to attach to the pump all clamped down using some stainless crimp clamps. I was all ready test them out, but I realized there is an outlet on the pump with stripped threads! Rather than junking the pump, I tried putting in a thread insert.

Needed to be real careful not to put metal shavings into the pump. I used a technique I saw for putting spark plug inserts into an engine while it is still together. I stuffed oil soaked rag into the hole of the pump. Drilled out the hole slowly using a lot of grease on the drill bit to catch shavings. I did the same with the tap and cleaned out the hole each time with a pick. I then installed the insert and pulled out the rag being careful to pull out any remaining shavings with it. I then cleaned it out real well with spray cleaner.

I decided to rebuild the pump while I am at it...waiting on some parts now.

[diamondj]

Looks good! Do you have any concerns with uneven flow of oil to one side of the crankcase vs the other given the different ID's of the tubing?

Jim

[oldjapanesebikes]

Made up the new lines. I'm using 1/8 tygon tube, Polaris check valves, y splitter and the original banjo from the old line to attach to the pump all clamped down using some stainless crimp clamps.

Very tidy - nicely done !

[jabcb]

Definitely nice!

Where can you get the stainless crimp clamps & how do you install them?

[silverstone]

Hi.
Check the rubber O ring behind the 17mm brass bleed bolt

[CJF]

Looks good! Do you have any concerns with uneven flow of oil to one side of the crankcase vs the other given the different ID's of the tubing?

Jim

Hey Jim that is a great question...no I didn't think about that until now, but you have a good point. I was more concerned with matching up the different diameters of the banjo, splitter and check valves. I do want to try and keep the same flow rate. I think I will try 5/64 tube, which matches the OEM plastic line ID. I will need to get a smaller ID splitter to match.

I picked up crimp clamps on McMaster Carr. You also need a crimp tool to install. I got mine at sears. They make for a very secure and tidy setup.

[CJF]

Here is the tool you need. Got mine for $15 on sale a few weeks ago.
http://www.sears.com/knipex-9-1-4-in-en ... ockType=G8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Nicholas]

Hey this is great work!

After reading this thread, I think I will be creating new lines and replacing the seals in my pump. Of all the things that I cannot afford to go wrong on my bike it would be the engine lubrication. I was going to refurbish my existing banjo fittings...but after 37 years I am sure they will need replacing.

I did not realise you can get banjo fittings with built-in check valves. I was going to go down the path of using inline check nozzles. The RD350 uses this setup with the following part number 353-13572-09-00, but having it all in the single banjo would be better....although could you just use 1 check valve coming out of the pump? But perhaps distance and reservoir capacities would play a part in time to deliver...so best to stick with Suzuki's design.

Have you had a chance to use the smaller ID tubing? Also what kind of tubing is best to use? I have been looking at a few and the best ones (fuel and pressure resistance) are black...but for this, I'd like to see the oil to make sure there is no air and that oil is actually flowing through the lines.

Would be great if we could create a bill of materials that help others create their own lines.

I don’t have my lines with me, but if you had the banjo sizes for the pump end (think they were 8M?) and what the outer and inner diameters of the tubes are...if not I'll try and head out to my garage and measure myself. The trouble with London, no space for a garage!

[CJF]

I received the smaller 5/64" (approx 2MM) ID tygon tubing yesterday. It will match the stock plastic ID lines. I also found a new smaller Y fitting to split the line. It is made by Festo and seems to be used a lot by RC plane enthusiasts for their fuel lines. The ID is 2MM and OD is 3.5MM. With the smaller tubing, I'll need to go back to my original plan and use the banjo's off the snowmobile Mikuni oil pump. They are the same 6MM ID where the bolt goes and have a smaller OD outlet where the tubing attaches than the stock Suzuki oil line banjo.

I'll post a pic and details once I get the new line together and tested.

[Nicholas]

Interesting pic...is that a stock air box? if not what are you using and what is your carb set to?

[CJF]

I'm running 34MM Mikuni's with velocity stacks and BBR stack filters. I spent the better part of the past riding season getting the jetting just right. I'm using jemco racing pipes and a stock rebuilt engine. It took me 22 different adjustments to get it right....the good thing is that I now know a hell of a lot more about how to tune carbs. I used plug chops, a cylinder head temp gauge and my ass in the seat...no dyno. I guess if I had used a dyno, i could have knocked about 20 of those 22 adjustments off.

The jetting is:
Jet Needle 6DP17
4th notch down from top
Needle jet P8
Main 260

[joeheagany]

I know this an old post, but I thought it might help someone out down the road... While greasing the swing arm I broke the main oil line from the oil tank to the oil pump. I was upset with how brittle the old oil lines where and thought it would be easy enough to make my own. I had the same yellow tubing in my garage (I also used in as a fuel line) as well as the crimps. I backed out the banjo fittings (removed the crispy glue on the threads) and jammed the tubing on. The crimps slipped right over nice and snug. I did not prime the oil but it quickly filled with oil as the bike idled.... (I manually turned the oil pump arm). I had enough old oil in the feeder lines to not be stressed with the air bubbles. Now I have a nice (and matching) oil line. Yellow + Blue Oil = Green! I'm halfway tempted to make new feeder lines too. This tubing is great - very flexible and will not kink easily.

IMG_4944.jpg

[CJF]

Did you do this for the line from the tank to pump or the pump to cylinders? The pump to cylinder lines are smaller diameter. I recently got my parts in to build the line and will post an update soon.