oil pump bleeder bolt and bubbles in lines

[oldjapanesebikes]

Made up the new lines. I'm using 1/8 tygon tube, Polaris check valves, y splitter and the original banjo from the old line to attach to the pump all clamped down using some stainless crimp clamps.

Very tidy - nicely done !

[jabcb]

Definitely nice!

Where can you get the stainless crimp clamps & how do you install them?

[silverstone]

Hi.
Check the rubber O ring behind the 17mm brass bleed bolt

[CJF]

Looks good! Do you have any concerns with uneven flow of oil to one side of the crankcase vs the other given the different ID's of the tubing?

Jim

Hey Jim that is a great question...no I didn't think about that until now, but you have a good point. I was more concerned with matching up the different diameters of the banjo, splitter and check valves. I do want to try and keep the same flow rate. I think I will try 5/64 tube, which matches the OEM plastic line ID. I will need to get a smaller ID splitter to match.

I picked up crimp clamps on McMaster Carr. You also need a crimp tool to install. I got mine at sears. They make for a very secure and tidy setup.

[CJF]

Here is the tool you need. Got mine for $15 on sale a few weeks ago.
http://www.sears.com/knipex-9-1-4-in-en ... ockType=G8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Nicholas]

Hey this is great work!

After reading this thread, I think I will be creating new lines and replacing the seals in my pump. Of all the things that I cannot afford to go wrong on my bike it would be the engine lubrication. I was going to refurbish my existing banjo fittings...but after 37 years I am sure they will need replacing.

I did not realise you can get banjo fittings with built-in check valves. I was going to go down the path of using inline check nozzles. The RD350 uses this setup with the following part number 353-13572-09-00, but having it all in the single banjo would be better....although could you just use 1 check valve coming out of the pump? But perhaps distance and reservoir capacities would play a part in time to deliver...so best to stick with Suzuki's design.

Have you had a chance to use the smaller ID tubing? Also what kind of tubing is best to use? I have been looking at a few and the best ones (fuel and pressure resistance) are black...but for this, I'd like to see the oil to make sure there is no air and that oil is actually flowing through the lines.

Would be great if we could create a bill of materials that help others create their own lines.

I don’t have my lines with me, but if you had the banjo sizes for the pump end (think they were 8M?) and what the outer and inner diameters of the tubes are...if not I'll try and head out to my garage and measure myself. The trouble with London, no space for a garage!

[CJF]

I received the smaller 5/64" (approx 2MM) ID tygon tubing yesterday. It will match the stock plastic ID lines. I also found a new smaller Y fitting to split the line. It is made by Festo and seems to be used a lot by RC plane enthusiasts for their fuel lines. The ID is 2MM and OD is 3.5MM. With the smaller tubing, I'll need to go back to my original plan and use the banjo's off the snowmobile Mikuni oil pump. They are the same 6MM ID where the bolt goes and have a smaller OD outlet where the tubing attaches than the stock Suzuki oil line banjo.

I'll post a pic and details once I get the new line together and tested.

[Nicholas]

Interesting pic...is that a stock air box? if not what are you using and what is your carb set to?

[CJF]

I'm running 34MM Mikuni's with velocity stacks and BBR stack filters. I spent the better part of the past riding season getting the jetting just right. I'm using jemco racing pipes and a stock rebuilt engine. It took me 22 different adjustments to get it right....the good thing is that I now know a hell of a lot more about how to tune carbs. I used plug chops, a cylinder head temp gauge and my ass in the seat...no dyno. I guess if I had used a dyno, i could have knocked about 20 of those 22 adjustments off.

The jetting is:
Jet Needle 6DP17
4th notch down from top
Needle jet P8
Main 260

[joeheagany]

I know this an old post, but I thought it might help someone out down the road... While greasing the swing arm I broke the main oil line from the oil tank to the oil pump. I was upset with how brittle the old oil lines where and thought it would be easy enough to make my own. I had the same yellow tubing in my garage (I also used in as a fuel line) as well as the crimps. I backed out the banjo fittings (removed the crispy glue on the threads) and jammed the tubing on. The crimps slipped right over nice and snug. I did not prime the oil but it quickly filled with oil as the bike idled.... (I manually turned the oil pump arm). I had enough old oil in the feeder lines to not be stressed with the air bubbles. Now I have a nice (and matching) oil line. Yellow + Blue Oil = Green! I'm halfway tempted to make new feeder lines too. This tubing is great - very flexible and will not kink easily.

IMG_4944.jpg

[CJF]

Did you do this for the line from the tank to pump or the pump to cylinders? The pump to cylinder lines are smaller diameter. I recently got my parts in to build the line and will post an update soon.

[joeheagany]

I made my line from the oil tank to the pump. But the guy who posted before me did the pump to the cylinders. If you read the entire thread it looks like he purchased new banjo fittings with check valves.

[CJF]

Round two for the new line....

I made it up using smaller diameter 5/64" tygon tubing (matches ID of stock lines), crimp clamps, Festo brand y splitter (approx 2mm ID), the original 2 Polaris check valves from my other line and a used check valve/banjo from another Mikuni oil pump also off a Polaris. I believe that valve allows oil to flow from the pump, but stops flow coming back to the pump . I think the lines went vertical from the pump on a Polaris. I used that valve because it has a small diameter end that works well with the 5/64" line.

It is all put together, but I can't test it till I finish rebuilding my pump...still working on getting the top oil seal for it, but that is all I need. No rush...it is 20 degrees outside with snow on the ground!!

Here are a few pics.

[Alan H]

Neat and well thought out!!

[Nicholas]

Round two for the new line....
I made it up using smaller diameter 5/64" tygon tubing (matches ID of stock lines), crimp clamps, Festo brand y splitter (approx 2mm ID), the original 2 Polaris check valves from my other line and a used check valve/banjo from another Mikuni oil pump also off a Polaris.

That looks great, nice work! Thanks for the tips and advice!