HOW TO REMOVE FORKS ON 1976 SUZUKI GT 250A

[TJCOOL]

any ideas?..i can't find anything explicit in the manual...not sure if they just pull off or what...I have everything removed ready for fork removal...not sure if top of triple tree needs to come off first...looking at parts manual, I see lots of seals etc..are they preventing the forks from just sliding out?..maybe I have the wrong idea in mind..if you know what I'm referring to here please send along your recommendations...a little stumped at this point....I said stumped..not stupid...

thanks

tj

[markush]

Hi!

What do you want to do? Open and repair the fork legs? Or only remove the fork legs from brackets/triple tree?

Remove front wheel, caliper, fender, headlight (you can keep the headlamp in place, but you must prevent it from falling down after the headlight brackets are released from the fork)
Loosen upper and lower standpipe clamps, then it is possible to pull down and out the complete legs. Thereby the headlight brackets will come out. Triple tree remains in place. Possibly the rubbers in the chrome rings of the headlight brackets stick to the (rusty) standpipes, then release by turning.

Opening of the standpipes depends on model.
GT250A has a plug with o-ring and circlip at the top of the standpipe. No thread! The plug will come out after removing circlip only by pressure of the fork spring. In most cases it will jam in the circlip groove. To help it to come out, push it a bit down (with e.g. a socket wrench + extension) so that it lies aligned in its seat and can pass the groove.
After removing the plug the spring can be pulled out.
To remove the outer tube, remove front axle clamp, below it an allen screw is accessible, which must be loosen.
The threaded part (by Suzuki called: pipe seat, 51146-33130) inside the fork leg, in which the allen screw is seated, may rotate and the screw will not loose then. There was a special tool to counter the inner part: T-Handle: 09940-34520 + Attachment A: 09940-34530(-34531) You can buy it (e.g. from cmsnl.com) or create it yourself.
Until now I have managed without this tool, in this way:
Use the spring force to block the 'pipe seat' = loosen the allen screw before removing spring:
Hold the whole fork leg upside down on the ground (on a piece of wood or plastic, against damages). First, give the allen-screw head some hits, using allen-bit and hammer. Then use an impact wrench or an electric/cordless screwdriver to loosen the screw, while pressing the fork leg down 'into the spring' to increase the spring force.

At the older fork version up to model L with chromed threaded plugs at the top of the standpipes it is not necessary to remove the allen screw at the bottom in order to dismantle the outer tube.
After removing the circlip on the fork seal the standpipe can be pulled together with the sealing ring. The sealing ring is thereby pushed out by the 'inner tube guide' of the standpipe.
This requires some force. I remove the fork spring, then clamp the standpipe's upper end horizontally into a vice (with aluminum jaws). Then I push the fork leg together and with a jerk apart against the stop. The sealing ring slides out and the standpipe can be pulled out.

hope you understand my German accent
Markus

[TJCOOL]

Hi!

What do you want to do? Open and repair the fork legs? Or only remove the fork legs from brackets/triple tree?

Remove front wheel, caliper, fender, headlight (you can keep the headlamp in place, but you must prevent it from falling down after the headlight brackets are released from the fork)
Loosen upper and lower standpipe clamps, then it is possible to pull down and out the complete legs. Thereby the headlight brackets will come out. Triple tree remains in place. Possibly the rubbers in the chrome rings of the headlight brackets stick to the (rusty) standpipes, then release by turning.

Opening of the standpipes depends on model.
GT250A has a plug with o-ring and circlip at the top of the standpipe. No thread! The plug will come out after removing circlip only by pressure of the fork spring. In most cases it will jam in the circlip groove. To help it to come out, push it a bit down (with e.g. a socket wrench + extension) so that it lies aligned in its seat and can pass the groove.
After removing the plug the spring can be pulled out.
To remove the outer tube, remove front axle clamp, below it an allen screw is accessible, which must be loosen.
The threaded part (by Suzuki called: pipe seat, 51146-33130) inside the fork leg, in which the allen screw is seated, may rotate and the screw will not loose then. There was a special tool to counter the inner part: T-Handle: 09940-34520 + Attachment A: 09940-34530(-34531) You can buy it (e.g. from cmsnl.com) or create it yourself.
Until now I have managed without this tool, in this way:
Use the spring force to block the 'pipe seat' = loosen the allen screw before removing spring:
Hold the whole fork leg upside down on the ground (on a piece of wood or plastic, against damages). First, give the allen-screw head some hits, using allen-bit and hammer. Then use an impact wrench or an electric/cordless screwdriver to loosen the screw, while pressing the fork leg down 'into the spring' to increase the spring force.

At the older fork version up to model L with chromed threaded plugs at the top of the standpipes it is not necessary to remove the allen screw at the bottom in order to dismantle the outer tube.
After removing the circlip on the fork seal the standpipe can be pulled together with the sealing ring. The sealing ring is thereby pushed out by the 'inner tube guide' of the standpipe.
This requires some force. I remove the fork spring, then clamp the standpipe's upper end horizontally into a vice (with aluminum jaws). Then I push the fork leg together and with a jerk apart against the stop. The sealing ring slides out and the standpipe can be pulled out.

hope you understand my German accent
Markus

I understand perfectly...very detailed and thanks....my aim is to rebuild\restore the forks on this 1976..i doubt they were done previously..but if one is restoring a bike, one must do everything possible...I managed to get one of the forks off but I had to remove the top of the triple tree bracket..once that was off, everything basically came apart easily...I did notice there was NO O-ring atop the circlip...I will have to order a pair of these..if the parts book says they should be there then they should be there...unfortunate thing about this bikes past history is that it was owned (or stolen) by the biggest, laziest short-cutting cowboy I have ever had the displeasure of seeing his work results..but no to worry because I shall restore her to it's past glory.....one more fork off and the frame and bits will be ready for powder coating...I plan on getting the frame checked for proper alignment first..a local racer has a jig he uses for building his race bikes..he offered his services...

thanks for the input..

Terry

[markush]

...I did notice there was NO O-ring atop the circlip...

After removing black cap from standpipe top you see this

No O-ring there, the O-ring sits in a groove in the fork plug .

[TJCOOL]

...I did notice there was NO O-ring atop the circlip...

After removing black cap from standpipe top you see this

No O-ring there, the O-ring sits in a groove in the fork plug .

\
you mean under the clip ring?

take a look at this parts listing..

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/S ... parts.html

look a part #10..looks like an o-ring should be there..under the clip..I was mistaken earlier..is this part diagram incorrect?

thanks

TJ

[TJCOOL]

ok..I see now..they are including the rubber o-ring as a separate part but meant to go around the fork plug...just looked like a separate item to me..all is crystal

[markush]

take a look at this parts listing..

In general, it is not possible to refer on the parts lists in order to locate or assemble exactly. The sketches often show only approximately, where to find the parts.
This is mentioned in the foreword of the lists, too.

[TJCOOL]

take a look at this parts listing..

In general, it is not possible to refer on the parts lists in order to locate or assemble exactly. The sketches often show only approximately, where to find the parts.
This is mentioned in the foreword of the lists, too.

I think my service manual lists the forks as having more parts...if I remember correctly....all a learning experience...

[markush]

up to model L there are more parts in the fork, extra bushes/guides etc.
download partslist GT250 K-C here:
http://www.suzuki-gt.co.uk/images/Refer ... KLMABC.pdf

[TJCOOL]

up to model L there are more parts in the fork, extra bushes/guides etc.
download partslist GT250 K-C here:
http://www.suzuki-gt.co.uk/images/Refer ... KLMABC.pdf

yes..those are my forks and they are definitely simpler that the other models..thankful for that..

thanks

TJ

I have the manuals I just don't have them with me at work...

[TJCOOL]

forks off as suggested...steering stem out, cleaned and bottom racer removed...have new tapered bearings ordered....forks will be rebuilt soon as will the frame powder coating....this work is very enjoyable when one takes ones time and has no scheduled to fulfill....
frame stripped and power sprayed clean ready for painting....

Q: will painter cover all holes and threads before blasting powder coating or is this something I should do?

[TJCOOL]

ok...now my manuals do not show or describe how to disassemble the forks on a 76 gt250A...forks before are covered but not these....looked for some utube videos but found nothing specific...anyone have any detailed instructions for this model year fork disassembly?...trying to restore\recondition the forks....probably never done before..

any help is always appreciated..

thanks

TJ

[oldjapanesebikes]

Q: will painter cover all holes and threads before blasting powder coating or is this something I should do?

If using a supplier familiar with motorcycles, they will normally mask things off - but apply the Murphy Rule here eh ? If you want it masked - do it yourself and discuss what you want done up front with the supplier.

[TJCOOL]

...I did notice there was NO O-ring atop the circlip...

After removing black cap from standpipe top you see this

No O-ring there, the O-ring sits in a groove in the fork plug .

have you any idea how to remove the oil seals at the top of the outer fork tube? I have forks for the 1976 gt250 A model...they are simpler..I have them or one completely disassembled but cannot figure out how to remove the tightly packed oil seal..if seems to be glue..it doesn't seem to want to spin off...sorry for being so dumb but I cannot find anything on line or in my manuals on this problem...I should have taken pictures..i will next problem I have..but the fork you show in your picture looks like it could be the same as mine..top, inside the outer fork tuber oil seal(s?)..can't get them out...please help..

thanks

TJ

[TJCOOL]

...I did notice there was NO O-ring atop the circlip...

After removing black cap from standpipe top you see this

No O-ring there, the O-ring sits in a groove in the fork plug .

have you any idea how to remove the oil seals at the top of the outer fork tube? I have forks for the 1976 gt250 A model...they are simpler..I have them or one completely disassembled but cannot figure out how to remove the tightly packed oil seal..if seems to be glue..it doesn't seem to want to spin off...sorry for being so dumb but I cannot find anything on line or in my manuals on this problem...I should have taken pictures..i will next problem I have..but the fork you show in your picture looks like it could be the same as mine..top, inside the outer fork tuber oil seal(s?)..can't get them out...please help..

thanks

TJ

ok I found a tool to do this on amazon.ca for 14 bucks...it seems it's a real job to get these out unless you have some kind of tool..I didn't want to use a screw driver...to risky to damage the fork tube and being new at tools it was an accident waiting to happen.....this is the one I bought...

https://www.amazon.ca/SUPERCRAZY-O-Ring ... eoval+tool

saw a link on the internet on how to make one but I ain't ready for that yet....but could be useful to someone else..

http://www.randakksblog.com/removing-gl ... ork-seals/