GT500 stator coils

[Roger486]

I have got the flywheel off my motor and removed the stator plate. It is a bit messy inside and the PO may have done some 'repairs'!

There are 4 coils. Two charging coils and a piggy-backed pair of primary coils. I picked up spare charging coils some time ago, so that just leaves the primary coils.

I see that the smaller of the two is available on eBay at the moment for US$49. I have also found someone locally who will re-wind them for NZ$185 which seems expensive (???).

Anyway, I was speaking to a mate who is an electronics engineer who said; "don't be silly, just re-wind them yourself, it is easy"

Has anyone done this, and does anyone have data for the coils? Wire gauge, number of turns etc?

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Roger you will need to find some of the wire in the correct gauge first. Buy a spool and then unwrap your coil while counting the turns, it also helps to measure the length of the removed wire for a total length of feet.
You may also need some insulation core paper or cloth to secure onto the iron core if the one on there is bad or gets destroyed in the removal of the wire.
Cut the piece or pieces so it fits the centre core and around the end faces, creating a cushion for the wire against any part of the iron core.
You do not want the wire to touch the iron core at any spot, neither at the base or on the sides.

A few things to remember, have no sharp edges for the wire to bear against, this causes damage to the coating of the coil wire and will short it out.
Keep the windings as tight as possible when you apply them.
Wrap them in the same direction as the original ones.
You can do a layer from one side to the other and coat it with a little varnish to keep it in position, this keeps your layers even and the wires tight as you move onto the next layer.
Never let the wires overlap each on a layer, if you do this will appear as a ridge on a layer, they must be level.
Always keep each turn tight and the wires right next to each other, close and snug. It should look like fine threads when you wrap.
After final wrapping you need to epoxy the wire to lock it all in place, vibration is the enemy of any coil.
It can be done by hand quite easily, but it takes time and patience.

[jabcb]

All 4 coils are still available from Suzuki in the US for around $44US each.
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/#/Suzuk ... 6021140013

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Being Roger is in NZ it may end up costing him a pretty penny to ship them from the US.

[Roger486]

All 4 coils are still available from Suzuki in the US for around $44US each.
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/#/Suzuk ... 6021140013

Thanks for that, however there is something definitely weird about that webpage. It loads most of it except t=ror the parts details panel. I have seen that before on webpages that will only open fully if you are coming in from a US IP address.

I have put a request into my local Suzuki dealer to see if they are available ex-Japan. They have been very good in the past.

However I have some electrician mates who now want me to re-wind them because they think that it would be good for me! If I do, I will track the work and post it.

[oldjapanesebikes]

It loads most of it except t=ror the parts details panel. I have seen that before on webpages that will only open fully if you are coming in from a US IP address.

Most often, that's due to a timeout - very common on low speed links, poor quality links or dial ups. You could try a different browser - Chrome or Safari for example if you are using Windows Explorer. If that makes no difference, and if you are on a broadband connection, I'd check with your ISP.

[rbond]

Also when you solder the wires to the finished coils, put epoxy on the connections or they WILL vibrate off. I learned the hard way on that and can now pull the side cover, and flywheel off in less than three minutes.......

[Roger486]

It loads most of it except t=ror the parts details panel. I have seen that before on webpages that will only open fully if you are coming in from a US IP address.

Most often, that's due to a timeout - very common on low speed links, poor quality links or dial ups. You could try a different browser - Chrome or Safari for example if you are using Windows Explorer. If that makes no difference, and if you are on a broadband connection, I'd check with your ISP.

Nope. Explorer, Safari, Chrome... no difference. My crappy ADSL broadband at home (3meg/500k), or high speed commercial fibre at work... no difference. IBM PC and Windows, Mac Pro... no difference.

All the company logos and advertising loads quick as a flash, then nothing.

[Roger486]

Also when you solder the wires to the finished coils, put epoxy on the connections or they WILL vibrate off. I learned the hard way on that and can now pull the side cover, and flywheel off in less than three minutes.......

Thanks for that... good tip! It took me 6 years to get the side cover off and a month to pull the flywheel

[rbond]

Are you in a vat of maple syrup? I know I am not the fastest around (my wife tells me every day), but that is a looooong time.

[jabcb]

Several other US Suzuki dealers you could try:
MotorCity Power Sports: http://www.motorcitypowersports.com/Default.asp
Lists coils for around $49

Dillon Brothers: http://www.powersportspro.com/
Lists coils for around $44

Alpha Sports: http://www.alpha-sports.com/
Lists coils for around $59

Another option would be to order the parts via a combination of phone & email. You could email in your order & then call to provide the credit card info. Or you might be able to pay via PayPal. Just don't include credit card info in any email.

[Roger486]

Thanks!

I have used the parts catalogue on Alpha Sports which works fine. My local Suzuki dealer also uses the parts catalogue on Alpha Sports... But then orders from Japan. There prices seem competitive and delivery is quick. So if they are available ex-Japan I will support the local guys.

[joolstacho]

Roger's right, these links are as useful as tits on a bull !
I don't know what the deal is with these spares sites links... they're all non-functioning as far as pre '80's bikes are concerned.
These outfits are pushing modern spares.
What's the point?